how often to button quail lay eggs

c). If you normally incubate chicken eggs at 100* and 50% humidity, then do quail the same way. The only ones I've found that need it a little different are button quail because they dry out too easily. They should take 18 days to hatch but can hatch anywhere from 15-21 days. Stop turning day 14 to be safe, though I've had them hatch in the turners with little problems. Coturnix eggs are pretty easy, you could probably set them in a bowl out in your yard and they'd hatch3

Incubating Coturnix Quail Eggs

Home Forums > Other Back Yard Poultry > Quail >Incubating Coturnix Quail Eggs Discussion in ' Quail ' started by chichick, Jun 29, 2011 .

Most Liked Posts Page 1 of 151 2 3 4 5 6 → 15 Next >Jun 29, 2011 #1chichick Chillin' With My Peeps2931111May 1, 2011I just ordered 4 dozen quail eggs and I need to know some info one them. I know that they only take 17 days to hatch, and to stop turning them at 14 days. What about the temp.

and humidity?1 person likes this. Jun 29, 2011 #2khs2424Out Of The Brooder53343May 24, 2011Incubation of eggs *Incubation period is 16-17 days but can go as long as 18 days (almost all of mine hatched at 18 days...so i plan my hatches around 18 days just to be safe) *Turn eggs atleast 3 times a day *Stop turning atleast 4 days before eggs are due to hatch *Every quail breeder has their own humidity and temp preferences....

I keep the temps in between 99.5F and 101F...however I try to keep it at 99.5 Fas much as I can. (in my new incubator *a cabinet* I now keep it at 100.6 and I still have gorgeous hatches) Humidity I keep in the 40s until the last four days of incubation where i up it to 60% It's best to have a towel or a kitchen mat or something similar that the eggs can lay on in the incubator so that when the chicks hatch they dont get their legs stuck in the tiny wire....as their feet are so tiny they will fall through. Taken from the quail sticky at the top if the forum.3 people like this. Jun 29, 2011 #3shelleyd2008the bird is the word23,38144351Sep 14, 2008Adair Co., KYTemp and humidity is the same as YOU would incubate chickens. This depends on your area (altitude, RH, et

people like this. Jun 29, 2011 #4shoopman Out Of The Brooder13022Jun 29, 2011Liberty kentuckyi hatched some last month for the first time and everone hatched, i am hooked now!Jun 29, 2011 #5mxpres Chillin' With My Peeps1,6224161Jan 21, 2009Lenoir,NCI set 50 yesterday,why?

beats me Jun 29, 2011 #6Moby Quailc. giganticus2,11432171Sep 10, 2010Quailtropolis Quote:lol, my friend just emailed me that she set 50 one day, then another 90 and was getting another 90, I told her 230 eggs?

- you win... Calla567 and Mr MKK FARMS like this. Jun 30, 2011 #7joe125Chillin' With My Peeps1,1635131Sep 20, 2010lol, my friend just emailed me that she set 50 one day, then another 90 and was getting another 90, I told her 230 eggs?

- you win... Yeah, you can never out hatch a hatchahilic. Don't even try! That's why I shoot for brooder to grow out pen, to breeder pen, etc... Any numb-nut can hatch 230 eggs. The real challenge come later. Brooding, growing out, and keeping them alive anywhere past the magic 8 week thing. Last edited: Jun 30, 2011vicky1212123, Colemanhatchery and Tammy N like this. Jun 30, 2011 #8scottysquails Chillin' With My Peeps103089Jun 30, 2011I have just gotten started on my quail.

I incubated 28 pharoah eggs and out of those 18 of those hatched. It was my first time. I have 110 going into the incubator tomorrow. I have alot of quail in my backyard that I raise and get the eggs from. It is very exciting. Jan 28, 2013 #9Shanti Marie Out Of The Brooder26124Jan 19, 2013thanks for the good information!Jan 29, 2013 #10James the Bald Chillin' With My Peeps1,022120196Jan 6, 2013chichick said: ↑I just ordered 4 dozen quail eggs and I need to know some info one them.

I know that they only take 17 days to hatch, and to stop turning them at 14 days. What about the temp. and humidity? If you haven't already done so, read this link. I think of it as the Holy Grail of Quail. And let us know how things go; post some pics. (You must log in or sign up to reply here. )Page 1 of 151 2 3 4 5 6 → 15Next >

Quail are most fertile and productive between the ages of 2 and 8 months, when hens usually lay one egg daily. At 9 months and beyond, fertility declines, although the average hen may still produce 200 or so eggs annually. For best results, keep one male with just two to three females.

How Often Do Quail Lay Eggs?

Quail lay eggs early and often. These tiny birds begin laying while barely little more than chicks themselves, and can lay up to 300 eggs annually. In the United States, the coturnix quail is the most common type raised domestically. This breed is also known as the Japanese quail, the Bible quail and the Nile quail.

While quail are relatively easy to breed and raise for eggs or meat, check with your state's department of environmental protection or its equivalent before purchasing birds.

In some states, quail are considered game birds and require special permits. Quail lay small, brown and white speckled eggs with delicate shells.credit: Ezergil/i Stock/Getty Images Quail Maturity Quail reach sexual maturity and begin laying eggs at the age of just 6 or 7 weeks.

Males reach sexual maturity and can mate a week or so earlier. You can sex your quail at approximately 3 weeks of age, as differences in male and female plumage emerge. Females grow larger than males, and the plumage under the throat and breast are white. The females' feathers are also longer and pointier than those of the male quail.

Fertility Considerations While quail hens begin laying early, they've often reached their peak production while domestic chickens are just getting started.

Brooding with Hens Natural brooding has been mostly bred out of coturnix hens. If you want to raise quail without using a brooder, slip fresh quail eggs under a setting bantam hen.

If you go that route, remove the bantam's eggs from the nest. The two species hatch at different times, and the varying size of the eggs results in poor quail hatching rates.

Incubating Quail Eggs You can also incubate the eggs. The incubation period until hatching for coturnix quail eggs is 17 days, although it ranges between 14 and 19 days.

Store eggs for incubation, larger end up, at 55 degrees and approximately 70 percent humidity. Incubate the eggs as soon as possible but certainly within one week of collection -- after that, hatching levels decline precipitously. Incubators vary, so follow the directions provided by the manufacturer. Turn the eggs three times daily, 180 degrees each time, until the 14th day.

At that point, stop turning them and wait for hatching. You can check for fertility on days seven to 10 with an LED light, looking for a dark appearance in silhouette, vs. a translucent appearance, indicating a lack of fertilization. Bobwhite Quail If you want to raise gamebirds, consider bobwhite quail. Check with your state's department of wildlife regarding regulations for raising bobwhite quail in your district.

Bobwhite quail hens do not lay as many eggs as the coturnix, averaging 150 to 200 eggs annually. In contrast to the coturnix, bobwhite eggs take between 23 and 24 days to hatch.

Incubation for button quail takes roughly 16 days, although we have had reports of a little slower hatch of up to 18 days. We suspect that is due to the varied temperatures and movement during transportation, or perhaps due to the variance in incubator temperatures, humidity, and elevation changes.

Can someone tell me how to incubate quail eggs?

Pets Birds Can someone tell me how to incubate quail eggs? Hello, Im wondering what temp should quail eggs be? What humidity? How long does it take them to hatch? How long do they live? Also what do i feed them when they hatch and when they are older?

ill give 5 stars to the first and good question.1 following 6 answers Answers Relevance Rating Newest Oldest Best Answer: Hi, You don't say which species of quail you have, so I'll have to guess.lol. Incubation times are different for most species so:- Chinese painted quail or button quail (coturnix chinesis) take 16 days. Japanese quail (coturnix japonica) take 17/18 days. Your incubator needs to be set for 37.5°C or 99.5°F for forced air incubators (fan assitted) a degree higher if they are in a still air incubator.

The humidity needs to be about 38-40%. Turn the eggs three times a day for 13 days for Cpq eggs and 15 days for the Japanese. Add more water to increase the humidity to 60-65% at this time and stop turning the eggs for three days.

Do not open your incubator up in these last three days, or you'll lose the humidity,this is important to aid the chick get out of it's shell, it keeps the inner membrane moist. You can feed your newly hatched chicks on chick crumbs with an added boiled egg mixed in. Feed them on this for 4 week, then move them onto a grower mixture.

Japanese quail females need to be moved onto a layer meal at 6 weeks old as they'll soon be laying themselves. Quails generally live between 3 and 5 years. Hope this gives to an insight to quail keeping, there is a quail forum you can join it's http://coturnixcorneruk.forumotion.com/index.htm There are many people on there that will help you out with any question. Source (s): Breeder of pet budgies and japanese quails. Anonymous · 1 decade ago1 0 Comment Asker's rating Incubating Quail Eggs Source (s):https://shrink.im/a0LJTpilla · 2 years ago0 0 Comment

At any rate, patience in waiting a few extra days has paid off more often than not. Ideal incubation takes place at a steady 99.5 to 99.9 degrees F. with a relative humidity of 60% (wet bulb reading of 86º F).

A good hatch depends on how well you know your incubator. For the first 14 days the button quail eggs should be turned (better described as being rotated from one side to the other) at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is better. If you have an automatic turner in your incubator, it will handle that for you.

So if you are raising the Button Quail in your home, they are going to receive this right combination all year round. If not addressed your females will then lay eggs all year. Laying eggs does take a lot out of them. So my advice would be to give your birds at least a 3 month break per year. If you're purchasing these quail as pets only and don't want any eggs, follow this procedure also.

Raising Button Quail

Raising Button Quail The Silver Button Quail Button quail are easy to raise and can produce a lot of eggs, with the right food and environment. They're very cute little birds and many are purchased as pets to keep in the home. The Button Quail can be found in many different colors, there actually are more than 15.

Here is just a short list: Blueface Cinnamon Fawn Golden Pearl Red-breasted Silver Splashed-Button White Button; This variety should be solid white with no other coloring. Button Quail can sometimes be found in pet stores. I would be very careful about purchasing these Quail from anyone other than a breeder. If you would decide on getting them from a store or even a Button Quail Breeder for that matter, ask for records on the quail your interested in.

If they have no records, I would not purchase them. Buying these birds from a pet store could result in Quail that are highly inbred, which can result in disease and early death.

In view of the fact, that Button Quail are so small and cunning, a number of people will buy them to raise in their homes as pets. When they're fully grown, they only reach the size of a baby chicken (the size some people give as gifts for Easter).

These little quail can be quite hyper and will need several hiding places, because they scare so easily. Through proper care, time and effort they can become very tame and make great little pets. Button Quail Characteristics The miniature button quail can also be kept in fish tanks, however, you would need mesh type cover for the top.

This needs to be of a soft material, that allows air in the tank and should be soft, to prevent injury if the quail would fly up.

Because these quail are quite active, it is not uncommon for them to track through their droppings. So you should keep some type of slip proof covering or litter on the floor. Something that is easy to maintain.

Buttons also need grit and minerals like many birds to help their digestion and stay healthy. Button quail can be scrappy among themselves. You will have to keep a close eye on this, because the pecking can result in injury or death. Providing hiding places in their cages can help prevent this situation.

Another option is to hang several shiny objects in their cage, which in some cases can become the target of the quail's pecking. If pecking would become a problem separation or debeaking may be required. Purchasing Button Quail as Pets Important: keep this in mind, if purchasing Button Quail as pets to keep in your home.

These little Quails have an expected life span of 4 to 5 years. This life span can be reduced dramatically if you don't follow a couple rules. When raising Quail, two things have to come together for them to lay eggs, assuming they are receiving proper food and care. The amount of light hours they receive per day. The right temperature.

How to Stop Your Button Quail From Laying Eggs You do this by cutting down on the amount of light they receive.

This is best done as a gradual process. You are the only one who really knows the combination of daylight hours and electric light hours that are accumulated in your home. Whatever this amount may be, you will need to gradually reduce the amount your Quail are receiving by covering them.

Systematically reduce the hours of light they are receiving on a daily basis, until they are down to no more than 8 hours per day. Then keep them at that amount of light for at least 3 months for rejuvenation. Once the 3 month rest period is over, just reverse the process.

Doing this will help their productivity and help them live a full life. If you never want them laying eggs, just cover them after 8 hours of light everyday.

When raising Button Quail for reproduction, the possibility of them hatching there own eggs does exist. However, this would depend on the proper type of housing and nesting area provided. But I believe most breeders do incubate. When pairing your breeders to reproduce. There are just some variables that have to come together that you can't see.

Things like compatible and fertile breeders. Their diet is also very important. This is the one thing you do have complete control over. So make sure your breeders are receiving a proper breeder diet. If you do use an incubator, make sure to follow all proper incubation procedures.

Button Quail should hatch in about 16 days, however you can wait until day 22, by then they would have hatched if they were going to. Thoughts on Raising Button Quail The Button Quail can be a great bird to raise as a hobby or even for pets.

However, if you're looking for a quail as a meat or egg provider, this bird is much to small to meet your needs. Article Author Gary Ortlieb Copyright © 2006-2015 Howto Raise Quail.com0 Comments Leave a Comment on This Article.

Quail lay eggs early and often. These tiny birds begin laying while barely little more than chicks themselves, and can lay up to 300 eggs annually. In the United States, the coturnix quail is the most common type raised domestically. This breed is also known as the Japanese quail, the Bible quail and the Nile quail.

How Often Do Quail Lay Eggs?

While quail are relatively easy to breed and raise for eggs or meat, check with your state's department of environmental protection or its equivalent before purchasing birds.

In some states, quail are considered game birds and require special permits. Quail lay small, brown and white speckled eggs with delicate shells.credit: Ezergil/i Stock/Getty Images Quail Maturity Quail reach sexual maturity and begin laying eggs at the age of just 6 or 7 weeks.

Males reach sexual maturity and can mate a week or so earlier. You can sex your quail at approximately 3 weeks of age, as differences in male and female plumage emerge. Females grow larger than males, and the plumage under the throat and breast are white. The females' feathers are also longer and pointier than those of the male quail.

Fertility Considerations While quail hens begin laying early, they've often reached their peak production while domestic chickens are just getting started.

Quail are most fertile and productive between the ages of 2 and 8 months, when hens usually lay one egg daily. At 9 months and beyond, fertility declines, although the average hen may still produce 200 or so eggs annually. For best results, keep one male with just two to three females.

Brooding with Hens Natural brooding has been mostly bred out of coturnix hens. If you want to raise quail without using a brooder, slip fresh quail eggs under a setting bantam hen.

If you go that route, remove the bantam's eggs from the nest. The two species hatch at different times, and the varying size of the eggs results in poor quail hatching rates.

Incubating Quail Eggs You can also incubate the eggs. The incubation period until hatching for coturnix quail eggs is 17 days, although it ranges between 14 and 19 days.

Bobwhite quail hens do not lay as many eggs as the coturnix, averaging 150 to 200 eggs annually. In contrast to the coturnix, bobwhite eggs take between 23 and 24 days to hatch.

3. So, you have your eggs, how long do they need to be incubated for? My experience is with Japanese (Coturnix) Quail and Button Quail only, so here are the incubation and hatch times for those two. Japanese (Coturnix) Quail eggs hatch around 17-18 days once you start incubation. They can take up to 21-22 days to hatch, so don't worry if they don't hatch on day 17. Some may even hatch as early as day 15. Button Quail eggs hatch around 16-17 days once you start incubation. It can take up to 22 days, so don't worry if they don't hatch on day 16. Don't make the mistake of counting from the day they were laid.

Beginners guide to hatching quail eggs - By a beginner ;)

Home Forums > Raising Back Yard Chickens > Incubating & Hatching Eggs >Beginners guide to hatching quail eggs - By a beginner ;)Discussion in ' Incubating & Hatching Eggs ' started by Breezy Optimist, Jul 7, 2016 . Most Liked Posts Page 1 of 21 2 Next >Jul 7, 2016 #1Breezy Optimist Out Of The Brooder1101341Mar 31, 2016United Kingdom So, i don't know if this has been done before on here, but i thought i would put up a beginners guide to hatching quail eggs, from my own experience.

After first starting to hatch eggs at the beginning of this year, i found it really frustrating not being able to find everything i wanted to know in one place.

Constantly running from one thread to another, or one forum to another, finding bits and pieces here and there. I've hatched Japanese (Coturnix) Quail and Button Quail, and this is all from my own personal experience. So if anyone else has different opinions to my own, that's fine, but this is from MY own experience.

So here goes... 1. Terminology.. The first thing i think new 'hatchers' need to know is the terms (names) for different things related to incubating and hatching eggs.

Internal Pip (Pipping) - This is when the chick inside the egg, breaks through into the air sac. External Pip (Pipping) - This is when the chick inside the egg is in the air sac and now starting to break out of the shell. Making a small hole that you can see outside the egg. Zip (Zipping) - This comes after the chick has pipped externally, and starts to chip away at the egg in a circular line, like unzipping the top of the egg to get out.

Lockdown - This is when you stop turning the eggs in the incubator and let them sit until they hatch.

This is done around 3-4 days (everyone chooses differently) before the hatch day. At this time you would normally raise humidity too. Candling - This is a method of looking inside the egg you are incubating to see if there is anything developing. There are a few methods, but using a light to shine through the egg is more commonly used. 2. When can you start incubating your quail eggs?

The fresher the better! You cannot have a quail egg and leave it sitting for weeks on end before you decide to incubate it. The longer the egg is left after being laid, the less viable (chance for life to develop) it becomes.

You can hatch quail eggs as old as 2 weeks, but it's not ideal. I've hatched quails eggs from a supermarket shelf! I have no idea how long they had been sat there, i may have just got lucky. I've hatched quail eggs from 9 days old. And i'm currently hatching Button Quail eggs that are 24hrs old, and 5 days old. If you do have older eggs, and you just want to try anyway, give it a go, you might get lucky! Obviously old stale eggs, such as a month old will turn bad in the incubator and can explode, or just get yucky.

You are counting from the day you started to incubate them. Life doesn't begin to develop in the egg until you start to incubate it. 4. What type of incubator to use? There are lots of incubators on the market. And you can also make your own if you have the materials (check You Tube for 'how to' videos).

There are two main types of incubators, forced air incubators and still air incubators. Most ideal would be a natural incubator...your female quail Forced Air Incubators are the type of incubators where the air is pushed through the incubator by a fan, or something similar.

This circulates the air around the eggs, and the heat too. Still Air Incubators are the type of incubators where there is no fan attached, and it's basically just holes in the lid of your incubator to let air in, and using a heat source such as a heat lamp/bulb. I personally have never used a forced air incubator. All my hatches have been in a still air incubator. There are differences to temperature that you need to make depending on what type of incubator you use.

I'll list this in the next section You can also buy (or make) incubators that turn the eggs for you. Or if you want, you can turn the eggs yourself. I have always turned the eggs manually. 5. Setting temperatures and humidity in your incubator. When incubating your quail eggs, you need to keep them at a fairly constant temperature and humidity. Everyone you speak to about their temps and humidity will give you different readings that they use.

You have to take into account your location in the world, how hot it is where you are, and the humidity levels on average where you live.

I live in the UK, so my temp and humidity that works best for me may be different to someone who lives in the USA for example. If you are using a Forced Air Incubator, you will need to keep your temperature on average around 99.5F, and humidity around 50%-60%. Again, this will vary depending on who you speak to. Some people keep their temp around 97F, and humidity 45%-50% others may go a little higher. But if this is your first time incubating eggs, aim to keep your temp between 97F and 99.5F and humidity around 50%.

Don't panic if your temp goes a little higher or lower by 1 or 2 degrees. You will eventually find out what works best for you. If you are using a Still Air Incubator your temperature will need to be a little higher. On average you need to aim to keep your temperature at around 101F - 103F, and humidity around 35%-40%.

Again, everyone has slightly different readings, so don't freak out if you can't match it exactly, just figure out whats best for you. The reason for higher temperatures required in Still Air Incubators is because they do not have a fan to circulate the hot air, and maintain a constant temperature overall. Heat rises, so as the Still Air Incubator heats up, it can create hot spots, and of course will lose heat more quickly as the hot air begins to rise.

If you have the money to spend, and it's your first time incubating then i would recommend buying a Forced Air Incubator. Just purely for having to worry less, and not having to keep an eye on the temperature so much, and of course possibly saving yourself the heartache of losing chicks that may hatch with deformities due to too much temperature fluctuation.

But, as i said, i've always used Still Air Incubators, one i made myself from and Exo Terra Vivarium and a red heat lamp (40Watts).

And i now own a small Still Air Incubator that i purchased online. My own personal temp and humidity that works well for me, is 102-103F and humidity at 50% until Lockdown when i raise humidity to 65%. If you really want to splash out, get an incubator that turns your eggs for you! More about egg turning in the following sections You want to keep a fairly constant temperature and humidity in your incubator.

Too much heat can cause problems for your chick when it hatches, and can also cause early hatching. I know that sounds like a good thing to have your chick hatch early, but it's not if it's due to messing around with temperatures. Fluctuations, and i don't mean the odd 1 or 2 degrees, i mean large spikes in temperature, either up or down will be bad for your chicks too.

So keep an average temp as best as you can 6. Candle your eggs and get them ready for incubating.

Ok, so, you have your eggs ready. The first thing i like to do is candle all the eggs before i put them in the incubator. Just to check for any cracks, or holes that my own eyes may have missed, and generally check that all is ok in there.

Not that there's much to see in there at this point To candle your eggs, you need to take great care. One slip and you could drop your egg or crack the shell. So take care, don't rush. Get a torch, a very bright torch, or you can use your iphone Torchlight app!

I candle my eggs with my iphone torchlight app all the time, and i can see right in there. It's perfect, and free Here are my eggs as i've candled them on my iphone.. you won't see much, just a blob of yolk and empty space.

That's fine, as there's nothing developing yet, you haven't started incubating There may be some small bright spots under the shell, that's usually a sign of a bit of damage under the shell, but as long as there's no crack in the outside of the shell, it will be ok. You may notice i had marked my eggs with an X on one side with a pencil.

That was to help me when turning my eggs manually. Do not use any ink pens, or sharpies etc for this, use a plain old pencil.

So, if your eggs are all intact, and not cracked, then give them a quick clean by lightly brushing off any feathers or whatever else may still be attached to the shell. Do this very carefully too, as the eggs have a coating on them that protects against bacteria or any other nasties from getting inside the shell to the developing embryo.

Don't wash them!! If you have an egg that is just covered in muck and you really are struggling, there are ways to clean your egg listed on Professional Breeders pages around the internet. Always, always make sure your hands are clean and washed when handling your eggs. The eggs are porus, and any grease or nasty germs you have on your hands could get inside the shell and infect your little chick.

So, just give your hands a nice scrub with antibacterial soap, or similar before you play around with them.

Now you have your temps, humidity and healthy eggs ready...place them in the incubator Keep the eggs in a natural position, i.e Fat end higher than the pointy side. Your chick will develop knowing where he needs to break out, and that's the fat end of the egg. Don't go crazy and stand the egg up, just make sure when you lay the egg in the incubator the fat end is tilted higher slightly 7.

What you need to do for the next 16 + days. Your eggs are in the incubator, your temp is as you want it, your humidity is set also. Close the lid, and leave the eggs alone. This is the hardest part, leaving the eggs alone! You need to try your hardest to not open the incubator unless you are turning the eggs, or adjusting humidity.

I've been there, so excited, and just wanting them to hatch right now!! But trust me, you have to have some self control and let them do what they need to do to develop into little baby chicks And here is what you need to do to help them...

Turn the eggs 3-4 times a day, you need to do this so they don't get stuck to the side of the egg by being left in the same position while developing.

Do this every day until the 4th or 3rd day before they are due to hatch. You need to make sure you stop around that time as the chick will need to get itself into position to begin it's hatch. When you get to this 4th or 3rd day, this is known as Lockdown. You will need to raise your humidity at this time, and try to keep it at that level.

Some people find this hard to do, so if you are having trouble increasing humidity, try adding a bowl of water, or a saturated sponge.

Don't go overboard! You don't want your incubator to be covered in condensation, that's a sign of too much humidity, and it's not ideal for your chicks. On the flip side, don't panic too much either if you can't raise it to the max you want. As long as you get near enough, you will be fine. Quail eggs are quite easy eggs to hatch. Again, everyone has different readings that work for them, but average humidity raised in Lockdown for Japanese (Coturnix) Quails is around 65%-70%.

And the same for Button Quails. Try your best to only open the incubator when turning the eggs manually, or adjusting the humidity. And when you do open the incubator, do it fast, and don't leave it open for long. Especially during Lockdown!

8. Candling your eggs after you started incubating them. Now i'm sure when your eggs have been in the incubator for a week or 10 days, you are dying to know if you have any chicks developing in there?

Of course you are! You can, if you choose to, candle your eggs around day 7-10. By this time you should see signs of life beginning. You need to be quick and careful so as not to let your eggs get too cold, and of course so you don't damage your eggs. And don't leave the incubator open while your doing this, the other eggs need to stay warm while your candling. Grab your iphone, and your torch app, and start candling...this is what you should see in your quails eggs around days 7-10...

These are my button quails at day 7 and some at day 10...as you can see some are more developed than others. You should see a small dark blob, that's your chick/embryo..and lots of veins/blood vessels coming from it and spreading over the egg.

If you don't see this by day 10, give it a few more days and check again. If there's nothing in there, than you don't have a chick developing, and you need to remove it from the incubator so as not to contaminate the other eggs that are developing. It's tempting to want to keep candling the eggs to see all that's going on, but it's best not to. I personally do a candle before i start incubation to check for cracks, then i candle again on day 7 or 10 (whichever day i have the time).

And then i do not candle the eggs again until the day i go into Lockdown. I recommend doing a final candle on the day you go into lockdown because then you will be able to see if any of the embryos are still developing.

If any have expired, remove them before going into lockdown. Usually by Lockdown, you will see the chicks moving around inside the egg. And the air sac will be getting smaller, and the egg will look more dark and filled up by the chick.

If you are unsure whether a chick has expired along the way, put it back in the incubator and see if it hatches. Lockdown for me was the worst, it felt longer than the 2 weeks of incubating! But you must resist all temptations to open that incubator, this is the final step for your chick to get ready to hatch.

Don't touch!! 9. Hatch day, and beyond... So, it's hatch day! Don't worry if you don't have chicks yet, they can be late, and some may take a few more days.

Be patient, it's a hell of a lot of work that chick needs to do to hatch. The chick has to Internally Pip first. This is breaking through to the air sac inside the egg. Once there it takes it's first breath of air. The lungs have to get used to absorbing oxygen, as does the chick. When he starts to run out of air in the sac, he will start to chip away at the egg shell from the inside.

He gets himself into position, by tucking his neck under his wing, and then stretches enough to peck at the shell. Don't worry, they have special tendons in their neck to enable them to bend this way in order to hatch out. They will peck away at the shell for quite some time, as they have a small white egg tooth on the end of their beak that's tough enough to get them out.

This breaks off or grows out after they hatch. Have a peek at your new chick and see if you can spot that egg tooth, it's white and very small on the tip of their beak Doing all this is tiring and take a lot of energy.

You may be able to hear tapping from the egg, and in some cases a chirp. They will tap for a while, take a rest, tap away again, take a rest...until they finally break through. There will be a small hole or crack where they have pecked their way through the shell. This is an External Pip.

I cheered when my first ever chick externally pipped, it was amazing! And then i panicked because there was no more movement. Don't panic, this is quite normal. The chick is resting after all that hard work, and taking in more oxygen. Some chicks will have taken 12 or more hours to get that small crack open in the shell. Let them rest.

Take this time to get your brooder set up and ready, or if your like me, just sit and watch in awe! Once they have got their energy back, they will then start to Zip. This is creating more small holes/cracks next to the one they just made, and going around the fat end of the egg in a circle.

Literally creating a lid for them to open the egg and push themselves out. If you are watching your chick hatch, keep the incubator closed! New chicks will be wet, exhausted, and can easily die from a chill. Don't worry when they just lie there for ages after eventually pushing themselves out of the shell.

They will be, as we English say...bloody knackered! Leave them in the incubator until they are fluffed up and dry.

Don't worry about food and water, they have absorbed the yolk that was inside the egg, and they can survive on this for about 2-3 days. When he is dry and fluffy and a little more active, you can move your little baby chick to the brooder.

Keep the brooder warm, use a lamp for heat. Enjoy your little chick, well done you!! I hope this helped other new people like myself who have started hatching quails. Leave me some feedback if you want Here is a quick snapshot from chick to adult of my favorite button quail i hatched, we nicknamed him 'Mouth' lol.

He thought i was his mum and would scream for me constantly, so i took on the role of 'mum'. And here is 'Mouth' before he left me to go and live in my parents aviary He's enjoying the outdoors, and lovin' life Not_A_Robot, Capricorn Farm, Chelseyb123 and 5 others like this.

Aug 30, 2016 #2Quail Noobie New Egg116Aug 30, 2016thank you for posting this! ive been looking all over for a nice guide.

your photographs really help too it's hard to find candling of quails online. i didnt know about the types of incubators either so thank you!Capricorn Farm likes this. Aug 31, 2016 #3Breezy Optimist Out Of The Brooder1101341Mar 31, 2016United Kingdom Wow, thanks for responding and leaving some feedback, i was wondering if anyone had bothered to read this lol.

Glad it's helped one person at least Capricorn Farm likes this. May 5, 2017 #4selfsuffally Chillin' With My Peeps25667Mar 29, 2013Thank you for posting this.

I just received the incubator that I ordered (though there's a problem with it) and should be receiving Button eggs next week. I've order Gambel but have not received notice of shipping yet. This will be quite a journey filled with excitement, questions and undoubtedly heartache.

Capricorn Farm likes this. Jun 24, 2017 #5Jaaon Out Of The Brooder17222Mar 9, 2017pennock mn I have can female quail that are laying 7 and 9 eggs a day I would like to put 30 two 40 eggs in my incubator how do I store them and at what temperature do I store them until I'm ready to put them in the incubator Capricorn Farm likes this. Oct 14, 2017 #6Yvette Osborne New Egg227Sep 27, 2017Most informative post, Breezy Optimist, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I live in southern England, what is the hardiest breed of quail, that will survive outside? Capricorn Farm likes this. Jan 19, 2018 #7Barbara Wasbin Out Of The Brooder51729Jan 11, 2018Thank you so much for taking the time to write and post this beginner's guide.

It's so informative. So very helpful. I can't wait to get started!Capricorn Farm likes this. Jan 23, 2018 #8pigeoner Out Of The Brooder561941Dec 2, 2017OHhave you ever got your quail to sit on their own eggs? Capricorn Farm likes this. Jan 24, 2018 #9Chelseyb123Chillin' With My Peeps448356141Oct 4, 2017Maine Well written!

I only have chickens and have only done one hatch but i totally agree with why you made this! Especially with not having all the info in one spot.

I got annoyed. I as well did a still air hatch or dry an it worked good for me. An adding that they wont hatch when they are suppose to is what i think people forget to add in different articles even with chicks they could hatch a few days late an people dont realize that.

Good job an excellent read!Capricorn Farm likes this. Mar 5, 2018 #10Casper1977Just Hatched2511Mar 5, 2018Thank you for posting this it has helped me to ubderstand the hatching of my button quail. I am new to quail. Capricorn Farm likes this. (You must log in or sign up to reply here. )Page 1 of 21 2 Next >

Like chickens, button quail can lay one egg a day every day, for almost her entire life. Without special attention, this practice can very quickly deplete the female of her bone calcium and other essential nutrients, leading to a very early death.

Introduction

"Introduction Housing Your Button Quail Feeding Your Button Quail Special Care for Female Button Quail Top Ten Rules for Button Safety Updated December 3, 2011Introduction First of all, what is a Button Quail? Buttons are the smallest of the ""true"" quails, about four inches long, and are native to Australia, Southeast Asia, India, etc.

Click here for a map of the distribution of the Button Quail. In addition to the normal ""wild type"", they come in silver, white, browns and various combinations and shades of these colors, also known as ""mutations"".

Unfortunately, our buttons do not have a very long lifespan; females' can be as short as 18 months, but if they are given proper care and nutrition (see below ), you can expect your button hen to live three to four years or even more.

Males average four to five years (again, depending on care and nutrition), but I have heard of at least a few male buttons who lived to be as old as nine!There are actually several different species of birds sharing the name ""Button Quail"", and they are all not necessarily related.

The Button you will see pictured on my pages is commonly referred to as the ""Chinese Painted Quail"", and is a member of the order Galliformes, family phasianidae. The other birds that we call ""buttonquails"" are of the order Gruiformes, family turnicidae. These ""buttonquails"" are not commonly kept in aviculture, are quite difficult to breed, and in fact, there are only a couple of them in captivity in the U. S. at this time!

On a separate page, I've compiled a list of some button species as well as some amusing translations from around the world. Meet Baby Spaz I've been really lucky to have some wonderful tame button quails in my life; first Baby Spaz, then Bunny, Hercules, Pee Wee and Praddle.

There's nothing more adorable than having a little button follow you around the house, or come running when you call to them. But I realize that it takes a lot of patience and attention to get this sort of bird to accept us as one of their own.

It's not something you can force on them, so don't be mad at your Button if he prefers the company of other quails.

Of course, a Button Quail who is not tame should have at least one other quail for company, so if you think you'd like to go quail shopping, look for pairs or trios that have been housed together; don't break up that happy quail family!

The rest of this page is devoted to information I have found useful in caring for my quails, past and present, and I hope you'll be able to find something in it that will help make your quail experience truly fabulous!Unique Birds, Adorable Pets.

Buttons are small, neat, and relatively quiet, (although they do have a fairly extensive ""vocabulary"" that you will come to understand if you take the time!). Their antics are always amusing, and they are very active, always searching the ground for seeds and other finds. Button quails can become very tame, especially if raised by hand, and if you are patient enough, may be willing to eat from your hand or even let you scratch under their chin!Housing your Button Quail Many people keep button quails in the bottom of their aviary, for variety as well as to help clean up spilled seed.

This is fine, as long as the other birds' droppings are cleaned out often and the quails are not overcrowded. Because their feet are not made for perching, but rather for walking, their floor must not be wire, instead use cedar or pine shavings.

Newspaper is not a good idea, as the droppings will just lay on the surface and your quails will be left walking around in you know what!

Traditional bird cages are an option, as long as the floor space is sufficient (minimum of four square feet for one or two) and the inner top of the cage is padded to protect against the ""Boink Factor"" (see below). This can be done quite easily by wiring an inexpensive piece of foam, 1"" or thicker, to the inner top of the cage. Food and water must be accessible to the quail on the floor of their home. Make sure the food dish is not something their little toes will get caught in!

The best thing I have found for a waterer is a hanging dispenser that only allows a bit of water to come out at a time, with a larger amount in the reservoir. This keeps the water fresh and clean, whereas a bowl of water would quickly become dirty as the quail would be walking through it all the time and tracking stuff into it.

Left: A couple of Button Quail homes with ""Boink-Proof-Roofs"". The one in the back is made from an old coffee table, turned upside down, with fiberglass window screening staple-gunned inside the legs of the table. If you want to keep button quails simply because they are so cool, and not for an aviary, keep in mind that they are not like other birds in that they are ground dwellers and cannot perch.

This means that floor space is key but vertical space is not (except for the ""boink"" factor, which I will talk about later). If they are to be housed by themselves or in pairs, a large glass fishtank, 4' long by 1' wide, is ideal.

Usually these are 55 gal. capacity, but you can have your pet store order one that is not as deep (and less expensive!)

that is known as a ""30 gal. long"". Button quails can be very shy, and are easily startled. They are much happier if they have places to hide, so you should add some ""extra options"" to their cage or aquarium.

Baby Spaz has three such hiding places: a bundle of millet sprays tied by the stems and suspended from the side of the tank, an upside-down rectangular box with two doors cut in it (shoebox size), and a cardboard cylinder about 3"" diameter by 6"" long, with (get this) a silk shoulder pad cut out of a blouse in it to sleep on.

(Okay, so he's spoiled!). Real plants are wonderful, but they must be of a sort that are not toxic to birds. Plastic or silk plants also make nice hiding places, and are much easier to maintain. If you hope to encourage them to breed, I always recommend at least 4 square feet of floor space for a pair, because they run about so much, anything less will seem confining to them, and may lead to them picking on one another.

To encourage them to breed, the hen needs a place to ""get away"" from her mate, so not only floor space, but also ""hidey places"" as mentioned above (even silk plants) are especially important, and will help to make them feel secure. If you have the space in your home and the resources to build it, an even bigger pen than this is fine. There will never be a problem with having too much space, only too little. THE BOINK FACTORThis is very important, so read carefully! When startled, a button quail's first instinct is to fly straight up to get the heck out of there.

They're not going to remember if their roof is something hard until it's too late. Boinking into something unyielding can cause serious injury, permanent disability, health problems later in life, and yes, even death.

The answer? BOINK-PROOF THE ROOF! It's easy to do, and will save your quail (and you) a lot of headaches later on. Here's how to set it up if your quail lives in a 4' x 1' aquarium:1. Buy a piece of fine mesh nylon netting (very inexpensive at fabric stores) about 4"" longer and 4"" wider than your quail's home.2. Buy two spring tension curtain rods that will expand to at least an inch longer than the aquarium.3. Hem the long sides of the nylon about 1 1/2 inches so that you have two long ""pockets"" to thread the curtain rods through.4.

Put the rods into the hems and extend the rods to at least half an inch longer than the aquarium.5. Put the whole contraption inside the aquarium (easier to do if Button isn't inside) and tuck the curtain rods up under the top edges of the aquarium.6.

Stretch out the netting so it goes from one end of the aquarium to the other. The result should cover the entire opening, but have enough slack so that if your quail boinks UP he'll boink right back DOWN, none the worse for wear.

Feeding Your Button Quail So, what do they eat? Button Quails are truly omnivorous, requiring animal, vegetable and mineral to be healthy. Their primary need is a diet high in protein, and the staple of their diet should really be ""gamebird crumble"", which is over 20% protein.

If it's too big when you buy it, you can grind it in a coffee grinder or food processor. Small seeds, such as millet, rape and hemp, are fine, and Button will also enjoy fresh vegetables such as tomato and cucumber slices, tiny sprouts, and broccoli (watch the way your quail tosses the broccoli around to get the little buds off, it's too cute!)

In addition, you'll want to make sure that Button gets live food as well. Mealworms are a perennial favorite, but you can also serve up some crickets and fly larvae (yes, maggots). All of these are commercially available online or at your local pet store, and are fairly inexpensive (Many online retailers sell mealworms for under $10.00 for 1,000 worms, and if you're really ambitious you can raise your own).

Don't feed indoor quails any outdoor bugs. These have been exposed to pesticides, pollution and other atrocities that no health-conscious Button Quail wants in his system. One thing about mealworms, though, is that they are very high in fat content. Too many mealworms are bad for your quail.

A safe number to feed an individual button is six per day. If you're interested in nutritional analysis of various forms of live food, click here. For a similar analysis of seeds, click here . Handy food dish and waterer ideas: Cut holes in plastic lids and put over food dishes (above) to keep feed from being spilled everywhere. For waterers (right), bend up wire coat-hangers to make the waterer easy to hang from the side of the tank.

What about the mineral thing? If you've ever owned birds, you already know that they require grit to help them with digestion. This is also true of Button Quails. In addition to its nutritional value, grit is also important in quail hygeine. Give them access to grit in a shallow bowl big enough for them to sit in, and your button will get in and ruffle, ruffle, ruffle; puffing his feathers up and getting the sand right down to his skin.

It must be soothing to the feather follicles, and quails seem to love it. You'll also see them ""dust-bathing"" in their seeds, wood shavings at the bottom of their home, a bit of fabric on the floor, even a shallow saucer of water!Button will probably find your houseplants very attractive.

Don't let him chew on them, as many of these plants are toxic to animals. Let's Clear the Air!You'd be amazed at how many things we have floating around our homes that really aren't good for us, and things that are bad for us can be lethal for a tiny bird.

Common sense tells us to be careful not to use solvents, varnishes, bug sprays and cleaning agents anywhere near our birds, but what about teflon pans? Scented candles?! There are many avian health concerns that wouldn't occur to us without some access to specialized information, so I've collected links to several sites devoted to Keeping Your Birds Healthy.

Special Care for Female Buttons Button hens have a unique nutritional and environmental needs, above and beyond those of the males. The primary reason for this is egg-laying. The production of eggs uses vast amounts of the female's resources, which must be compensated for in diet and lighting.

When compared to the size of the hen that produces it, the Button Quail egg is proportionately one of the largest eggs lain by any bird. (This means, the weight of the egg is a significant percentage of the weight of the hen herself).

Like chickens, button quail can lay one egg a day every day, for almost her entire life. Without special attention, this practice can very quickly deplete the female of her bone calcium and other essential nutrients, leading to a very early death.

Without proper care, a female button's life may be as short as only 18 months! But if you are able to cut down on her egg laying and provide her with proper nutrition, she can live four years or more.

I have been trying very hard to develop a system that will lengthen females' lives by compensating for their tendency to ""overlay"". Diet is crucial in preventing nutrient depletion. Most important are calcium and protein. Calcium Egg shells are composed largely of calcium. If your hen does not have an extra source of calcium in her diet, every shell she produces will draw essential calcium from her system, progressively weakening her bones and muscles, even to the point where she will not be able to support her own weight!

A calcium supplement is absolutely essential! The easiest thing to do is to add crushed oyster shell to her bowl of grit; she will gobble it up greedily!

Oyster shell is available at your local pet store in small containers, and is relatively inexpensive. As an alternative, you can crush up a regular ""human"" calcium supplement and add it to the grit, or you can use ""Pet-Cal"", which is a ""dog and cat"" supplement.

Pet-Cal comes in a tablet and has to be crushed up as well, but it also contains a few other useful nutrients, such as phosphorous and vitamin D (which is absolutely essential for your hen to be able to absorb the calcium itself into her system). Cuttlebone is also a great source of calcium, and many breeders swear by it, but I personally have never seen a button touch a cuttlebone.

Mine prefer the oyster shell and Pet-Cal by far. A good vitamin supplement is also very important, for those nutrients that they would get in nature, but are often lacking in a caged environment.

I use ""Vita-Flight"" by Mardel Labs, but there are many other good vitamins available also. Whichever you choose, definitely find some way to introduce extra calcium into your female's diet!Protein Each egg contains a great deal of protein, which means your button has to be getting the protein from somewhere. The best way to provide protein in the diet is by feeding gamebird layer pellets. These have about a 25% to 28% protein content and can be used as your hen's sole diet if you choose.

Of course, who would deprive their button of the mealworms, greens and seeds that they love so much?? Other great sources of protein are: mealworms, insects and insect-based food; algae (buy it at a health food store); spirulina, and hardboiled egg, mashed up fine. My hen Bunny also likes cooked beans (i.e., black or kidney), believe it or not, and these are a great source of protein too.

Lighting Conditions The egg-laying cycle is related to the number of hours of light the hen gets each day, and does not depend on the presence of a male or whether the eggs have been fertilized. Generally, the hen will lay when her day has 14 or more hours of light, but I have seen hens lay a clutch with 12 or even fewer hours of light.

During the summer months, there is not much you can do about this (unless you want to pull the shades down at 6:00 p.m.) but as the days shorten with the approach of winter, you can bring egg-laying to a stop by not giving your birds any artificial light.

This means, no lamps, no overhead lights, not even a night-light. When the sun goes down, it's bedtime. Of course, if you work from eight till five as I do, this practice will seriously cut into your quality quail time.

I let Bunny out to run around in the mornings before work, and we have our playtime then instead. Recycling Eggs Despite your best efforts, your hen is still going to lay plenty of eggs. A clutch will consist of 8 - 12 eggs. A lot of hens will lay many more than this, and never show any interest in building a nest or sitting on the eggs.

No one has been able to determine with any certainty why some (if not most) button hens simply have no interest in their eggs, but it seems that a hen who goes ""broody"" (chooses to build a nest and set the eggs) is the exception rather than the rule.

If your hen is one of those rare birds who will nest, I've developed a little system that will keep her from having to lay a whole clutch each time. My system presumes that your female lives alone or with other females, and will not be laying fertilized eggs.

She'll have to lay the first clutch herself, and you probably won't even know she's going to nest until one day you'll go by and see she's piled the eggs all up and built a little fortress around them with her bedding.

The key is to leave the eggs where she lays them, even if they are scattered all about the cage. If she's going to nest, she'll do all the work of making a nest and moving the eggs at the last minute. Buttons don't need any ""special"" materials for building a nest; generally, they will just haul over bits of their bedding.

Pine chips or shavings seems to be a good choice. Buttons don't use string or dirt or feathers, because they can't weave or build like many flying birds do.

They just sort of make a pile with a depression in the middle for themselves and their eggs. So now your hen has made her first nest. She will probably sit on the eggs almost non-stop, leaving them to eat and relieve herself. I have found that she will chatter at you most threateningly if you come near, but also that if you get her off the nest and take her out to play, even for an extended period of time, she will return to the eggs once she is back in her cage (or tank or whatever).

Allow her to keep her eggs for 16 to 20 days, which is the normal incubation period. After this time, remove the eggs, and she will go on about her normal business within a few minutes.

I have not seen a hen mourn very long over missing eggs. When you have removed the eggs, save them! Check for damage and throw away any questionable ones, and store the eggs somewhere safe, like in a little basket, with good air circulation. Don't use anything airtight, as I have had eggs go moldy when kept in Tupperware. Under the right conditions, the eggs will not go ""bad"", they will simply start to dry up inside. I also use a permanent marker to write a little ""1"" on each egg, so that I can distinguish it from newer eggs later on.

A week or so after you have taken the eggs away, your hen will start to lay again. As soon as you see the first egg, take about seven of the old ones and place them next to the new one.

She may lay one or two more, but then she should see the collection as a whole ""new"" clutch and begin to set them without laying them all over again.

Once again, let her keep them for 16 - 21 days, and then take them out. With each clutch, you should end up with two or three new eggs, and you can then pitch the oldest ones from previous clutches.

I hope this information helps your button hen to live a longer, healthier life. Feel free to email me with any questions, and as always, Happy Quails!Safety Tips for letting your Buttons loose in the House If you're like me, you like to let your buttons out for a little exercise now and then. Before you do, please read the following ""Ten Commandments for Button Safety"" and avoid potential hazards that could endanger your birds... Keep your other pets away from your Quail.

No matter how harmless you think Fluffy or Fido might be, you never know when they suddenly might think Button looks like a tasty treat. Never let a bird out in a room where another animal might injure it (or worse)... Watch out for ceiling fans. Never let your button out while the ceiling fan is on. Even though they spend most of their time on the ground, one unexpected ""boink"" into a spinning ceiling fan can mean instant death for a quail.

Keep all the doors and windows closed. When a bird gets scared, its first inclination is to fly away. Buttons are the same, and if you have open, screenless windows or doors, your quail could be gone and lost before you know what happened.

Similarly, try to keep the shades closed, or at least have a fabric panel across the window. If your button gets a mind to try to escape quickly, it's not going to know there's a hard pane of glass between it and the outdoors. A flying quail can crash hard into a glass window, seriously injuring or even killing itself. Watch out for anything with a heating element.

Keep the stove off, the fireplace well protected, and curling irons or other hot appliances off at all times when your Button is out of its cage.

Beware of water. Keep the toilet lid down, the sink empty and the cover to the fishtank closed. Buttons can't swim!Avoid all poisons. Don't let your button anywhere where it can get into insect poisons, rat poisons, mouse traps, cleaning solutions, solvents, or anything that is even remotely toxic. Buttons like to taste everything they encounter, so the danger of having poisons about is obvious.

Be aware of what's under your feet at all times. It could be a quail! Tame quails like to be where their humans are, and this means hanging around by our feet. They move quickly and quietly, and even if you think they're in another room, seem to be able to get ""underfoot"" in no time flat.

I've had quails show up by my feet out of virtually nowhere, and only narrowly avoided giving them a kick by always looking down before I move my feet. Button doesn't understand that our feet are dangerous to them, so get into the habit of always knowing where your quail is before taking a step (or rolling your desk chair).

Be careful when opening and closing doors. Make certain your quail isn't anywhere it can get caught in a closing door or hit by an opening door. When closing doors, watch both the swinging side and the hinged side, because a quail can get its head in between a very small space.

Watch out for holes or open spaces where a quail can get lost under the baseboards, kitchen cabinets, walls, floors, or radiators.

Keep the door to the basement closed, as well as the doors to any closets that might be unsafe. Keep the Floors Clean! As mentioned before, Buttons like to taste everything! Keep the carpets vacuumed and the floors washed, so your quail doesn't sample something that's been tracked in from outdoors.

Think of your quail as a curious and active human child. Only if it's clean enough for a Baby is it clean enough for a Button!More Safe Birdkeeping Tips.

At Last! !A Bulletin Board Devoted Exclusively to Button Quails!Have any Button stories you'd like to share? Here's where to send your Button Quail Fan Mail Back to The Button Quail Index Happy Birthday, Baby Spaz! The Button Quail Home Page was originally established on May 10, 1997, Baby Spaz's 4th Birthday. Last Updated: January 31, 2009 visitors since Jan. 31, 2009 "

A: Quick Answer Bobwhite quails lay an average of 12 eggs per clutch, though they can lay as many as 20; they only lay one egg a day. They lay a large number of eggs because they often lose their nests. It takes nearly a month for the quail to hatch.

How Many Eggs Does a Quail Lay?

Pets & Animals Birds Q: How Many Eggs Does a Quail Lay?

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Credit: Tony Hisgett Flickr CC-BY-2.0Full Answer They also account for losing their nests by laying another clutch. Each time they lose a nest, they lay another, at least until the end of the season. Both the large number of eggs and the persistence in hatching a clutch helps to offset the fact that quail have a high mortality rate each year.

Learn more about Birds Sources: quailforever.org Related Questions Q: How Can You Keep Quails? A: Quails should be housed somewhere warm, dry and windproof, such as a rabbit hutch and run. They like having low-level perches to sit on. Their hutch should... Full Answer >Filed Under: Birds Q: Do Turkeys Lay Eggs? A: Turkeys lay eggs. After mating season, which can arrive anywhere between February and April, turkeys nest near the ground in well-vegetated areas.

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Others are button quail african quail and bobwhite quail which are also good layers..they lays btn one and two eggs a day. On average each quail can lay 300 eggs per year meaning each quail wouldn't lay egg on each day. However, wild quails of which some farmers are supplied by comen will rarely lay eggs.

See more of Nairobi Urban Quails on Facebook Log In Forgot account?or Create New Account Not Now English (US) · Español · Português (Brasil) ·Français (France) · Deutsch Privacy · Terms · Advertising · Ad Choices ·Cookies · More Facebook © 2017Nairobi Urban Quails November 6, 2013 ·How many eggs does a quail lay?...it depends with the type of quail breed.

Japanese quails (cortunix japonica) are among the best layers and with favourable quality conditions like good feeds, lighting, lack of stress, control of preditors etc.

These wild quails can lay a single egg in months. With the health benefits of quail eggs, quail keeping must be encouraged among poultry farmers in kenya.7 Likes 4 Comments

From September until April, quail flock together in coveys. In spring, mating rituals begin, and in April, May and June, the birds build nests and lay their eggs. An average clutch is 10 to 16 eggs, although some species may lay up to 28 small, speckled eggs. The eggs hatch in 21 to 23 days. If the first nest is unsuccessful, California quail will make a second attempt during the summer.

Where & When Do Quails Nest?

The familiar chuck-chuck-chuck of quail hiding in the weeds and scrub along the edges of a housing development remind us that nature is never far away.

With 130 species scattered around the globe, the ground-dwelling small birds live on every continent except Antarctica. While quail will live next to humans if they must, they prefer tall grasses and scrub on hillsides and brush-filled canyons for their nests.

The Nest Most quail species, such as the California quail (Callipepla californica), bobwhite (Colinus virginianus) and Montezuma quail (Cyrtonyx montezumae) scratch out hidden hollows in the ground under tall grasses or low-growing brush, against a tree trunk or near rock formations. California quail and Gambel's quail (Callipepla gambelii) will also build a nest in a shrub or tree if a secure platform is available.

Lined with grasses, leaves and feathers, the nests are usually 5 to 7 inches in diameter and 1 1/2 to 3 inches deep. Pairing Up

Generally the female sits on the nest, although the male will continue incubate the eggs if the female leaves or is killed. Habitat The quail's preferred habitat is amid wild grasses, scrub, brush and open woodlands. A few species, such as the gorgeted wood quail (Odontophorus strophium), live in forests. Quail eat mostly seeds, berries, fruits and insects, foraging along the ground under the grasses and brush.

Most quail species rarely fly, preferring to run along the ground or, when startled, leap into the air in a quick burst of flight. The California quail has been clocked at 12 mph on the ground and up to 58 mph in the air. Endangered While most quail species have been impacted by loss of habitat, only a few species are endangered.

The population of gorgeted wood quail, native to the Andes slopes in Colombia, is estimated at less than 3,000 mature birds. Logging, the conversion of forest to agriculture and hunting have affected the birds' population. Australia's buff-breasted button-quail (Turnix olivii) is also endangered, at approximately 500 birds. Loss of its grassland habitat and feral cats are among the reasons for its decline. The critically endangered Himalayan quail (Ophrysia superciliosa) is close to extinction, with less than 50 mature birds left in the wild.

References (9)Photo Credits Tom Brakefield/Stockbyte/Getty Images Author With degrees in fine and commercial art and Spanish, Ruth de Jauregui is an old-school graphic artist, book designer and published author. De Jauregui also worked in the Napa Valley as a high-end catering assistant. She enthusiastically pursues creative and community interests, including gardening, home improvement, pet rescue and social issues.

Cite this Article See More Animals Do Doves Return to the Same Nesting Places Each Year? Different Kinds of Chickadees The Life Cycle of a Bobwhite Quail Birds of Prey in Alaska

A: Quick Answer Quail eggs hatch in less than a month. They live three to five years and reach sexual maturity in two years. Quails may lay up to 12 eggs at a time. Continue Reading

How long does it take for wild quail eggs to hatch?

Pets & Animals Birds Q: How long does it take for wild quail eggs to hatch?

Keep Learning How long does it take for parakeet eggs to hatch? How do you know when a bird egg is going to hatch? How long does a mourning dove sit on her eggs for them to hatch? Full Answer Quails feed on seeds, flowers and insects.

They do not migrate and spend their lives in the area where they hatched. Quails are solitary birds except during mating season. At that time they can be found in groups as large as 100 birds. Snakes, cats and raccoons are common predators of the quail.

They grow to lengths of 7.8 inches and may weigh up to 4.9 ounces. Quails are not in danger of extinction. Learn more about Birds Sources: a-z-animals.com Related Questions Q: How long does it take for dove eggs to hatch?

A: It takes 14 to 15 days for dove eggs to hatch. Doves usually sit on the eggs for incubation, but it is a good idea to have an incubator available just in c... Full Answer >Filed Under: Birds Q: How long does it take for a turkey vulture egg to hatch? A: Turkey vulture eggs are laid in the spring and take between 30 and 40 days to hatch. The turkey vulture egg is a chalky white egg with brown speckles.

It i... Full Answer >Filed Under: Birds Q: How long do duck eggs take to hatch? A: Duck eggs typically hatch in 28 to 35 days.

The difference in time depends upon the breed. Eggs of commonly-raised breeds of ducks, such as the Pekin varie... Full Answer >Filed Under: Birds Q: How do you make love birds lay eggs? A: Female love birds will lay eggs with or without a presence of a male but without male intervention, the eggs will be unfertilized and cannot hatch.

To succ... Full Answer >Filed Under: Birds You May Also Like Q: How many eggs do snakes lay? Q: What is the lifespan of a canary? Q: What could happen if a turkey looks up when it rains? Q: How do you catch an escaped bird? Q: What is a peacock's diet? Q: What do baby sparrows eat?


how old is vanessa redgrave

She was 45. The wife of ""Schindler's List"" actor Liam Neeson and daughter of actress Vanessa Redgrave and the late film director Tony Richardson died at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York. The cause of death was not announced, but she had been hospitalized after suffering a devastating brain injury while skiing Monday.

Natasha Richardson dies at 45

"John Horn Natasha Richardson, the luminous British actress from one of the world's great acting families, whose performances ranged from the high-brow drama ""The Handmaid's Tale"" to the lightweight comedy ""The Parent Trap"" and the Tony-winning Broadway production of ""Cabaret,"" died Wednesday.

""Liam Neeson, his sons and the entire family are shocked and devastated by the tragic death of their beloved Natasha,"" said a statement released by publicist Alan Nierob. ""They are profoundly grateful for the support, love and prayers of everyone, and ask for privacy during this very difficult time. ""Richardson was injured at Mont Tremblant, a luxury resort in Canada. The actress was taking a lesson on a beginner's run near the bottom of the ski area and was not wearing a helmet when she had what first appeared to be a minor accident.

She initially reported that she was well, but soon started to complain of a headache. Hours after the fall, the star of a number of acclaimed stage plays -- including ""Anna Christie,"" ""A Streetcar Named Desire"" and ""Closer"" -- slipped into unconsciousness, and she was transported Tuesday from a Montreal hospital back to New York, where she was surrounded by family and friends.

The actress' most recent film credits came in last year's ""Wild Child"" opposite Emma Roberts and 2007's ""Evening"" with Meryl Streep, Claire Danes and Redgrave. The ""Evening"" part was one of a number of recent roles Richardson had had in productions with her closest relatives.

On television, she appeared as a guest judge on the just-concluded season of the cooking show ""Top Chef. ""Richardson was born in London on May 11, 1963. In addition to Redgrave, other actors in her family include sister Joely Richardson, a star of the television series ""Nip/Tuck,"" and aunt Lynn Redgrave, whose film credits include ""Georgy Girl"" and ""Gods and Monsters."" Richardson's grandfather was legendary Shakespearean actor Michael Redgrave. Her father was an acclaimed writer, director and producer who won the directing and best picture Oscar for 1963's ""Tom Jones.""

Tony Richardson, who died in 1991 at age 63, also directed ""Look Back in Anger"" and ""A Taste of Honey. ""The actress' 72-year-old mother, who won the supporting actress Academy Award for 1977's ""Julia,"" still acts in theater and film.

Just before the skiing accident, Richardson was considering a Broadway revival of Stephen Sondheim's ""A Little Night Music"" with her mother, after a highly praised one-night January staging at New York's Studio 54.

Although Richardson may have come from royal show business blood, she did not try to use her ancestry to advance her career, but rather saw her family's creative business as something of a classroom.

""I know the pressures of being the daughter of a great actress,"" Richardson said in a 2005 interview with London's Independent newspaper. ""But it's inspiring. You learn so much that other people don't get to learn until later on. My father being a director, I [learned] a real work ethic.

You think: 'One day, I'd like to be as good as that.' But when I was starting out professionally, I had a level of attention put on me that I didn't deserve or wasn't ready for.

And it was hard, particularly in England, to make my way. ""Richardson trained at London's Central School of Speech and Drama, hiding her family connections, and subsequently picked up minor parts in little-known theater and television productions.

In 1985, she made her West End debut, playing the troubled young actress Nina in Anton Chekhov's ""The Seagull."" A year later, Richardson was cast in her first prominent movie role, starring in director Ken Russell's ""Gothic"" as ""Frankenstein"" author Mary Shelley. A variety of more prominent movie and stage roles followed, but Richardson often gravitated toward artier film productions, with mainstream movies more exception than rule.

Despite her British roots, she often played iconic American characters -- including Patty Hearst (in a movie of the same name), Blanche Du Bois in Tennessee Williams ' ""A Streetcar Named Desire"" and the title role in Eugene O'Neill 's ""Anna Christie.

""With a gravelly, seductive voice (once compared to a combination of honey and iron filings), Richardson was frequently willing to play emotionally vulnerable roles. ""I just feel for her,"" she told the Times in 1993 about Anna Christie. ""Her anger and her loneliness and her pain. ""Richardson's movie choices in 1990 exemplified her creative taste. That year, she starred in ""The Comfort of Strangers,"" a drama about a couple (Richardson and Rupert Everett) trying to repair a failing relationship, and ""The Handmaid's Tale,"" an adaptation of Margaret Atwood's novel about a future theocracy. Hinting at her growing interest in theater, the screenplays for both movies were written by the playwright Harold Pinter.

Richardson made her Broadway debut in 1993, playing opposite Neeson in ""Anna Christie."" She was married to producer Robert Fox at the time; they divorced that year, and she married Neeson in 1994.

The couple had two sons together, Micheal and Daniel, and Richardson left acting for three years when they were born. ""I have a famous mother, and it took me years to get over that,"" she once told London's Mirror. ""Now I have this really famous husband. I definitely feel a loss of confidence. Perhaps that's partly why I love living in New York, being free of all that family baggage, being open to all sorts of possibilities.

""Richardson continued to appear in movies, with the highest-profile roles coming in the 1998 remake of ""The Parent Trap"" opposite Lindsay Lohan and Dennis Quaid, and 2002's romantic comedy ""Maid in Manhattan"" with Jennifer Lopez.

But Richardson's most distinguished work was delivered inside London and New York's theaters: as Sally Bowles in director Sam Mendes ' revival of ""Cabaret"" in 1998 (for which she won a Tony and a Drama Desk award); a year later in the Broadway production of Patrick Marber's ""Closer""; reprising a role once played by her mother in the 2003 London production of Henrik Ibsen 's ""The Lady From the Sea""; and 2005's Broadway revival of ""A Streetcar Named Desire.

""Los Angeles Times reviewer Laurie Winer said of her ""Cabaret"" performance: ""Wearing a slip, torn stockings and dirty hair, she dazzles simply by lifting her huge, wondrous eyes -- lined in yesterday's stained makeup -- tearfully to the theater's low balcony.

""In his Times review of ""Closer,"" Michael Phillips wrote: ""On stage, the unglamorously glamorous Natasha Richardson has a wonderful way of asking a question as if it were a statement, as if the question mark were extraneous and obvious. She does that in a way that reveals, warily, a bit of her character's insides. ""Richardson was often drawn to stories that illuminated a character's deepest -- and sometimes darkest -- secrets.

In 2005's ""Asylum,"" a movie she spent seven years getting made (taking an associate producer credit to help move it forward), Richardson played Stella, the unhappy wife of a psychiatric hospital doctor. The film, in which Richardson's character is drawn to a mental patient, failed to attract an audience in the United States, but it did bring the actress several British honors.

""One of the reasons I related to Stella, and why I think a lot of women relate to her, is that we've all had moments in life when you look at the edge of the abyss and think, 'Am I going to throw caution to the wind?' "" she said in a 2006 interview with London's Evening Standard. ""Most of us decide to pull in the reins.

Stella doesn't. ""In addition to the revival of ""A Little Night Music,"" Richardson in recent years performed in several other projects with her closest relatives. In the 2005 film ""The White Countess"" she appeared opposite Lynn and Vanessa Redgrave. Two years later, she and her mother played a mother and daughter in ""Evening.

""john.horn@latimes.com Times staff writer Mike Boehm contributed to this report. An appreciation Born into theatrical royalty, she refused to be burdened by her heritage. CALENDAR, D1Share your thoughts on Richardson's life, work and death. Yes, Scarlett Johansson was calling out James Franco in her Women's March speech "


ia suffix meaning

A WORD ROOT: BASIC MEANING OF THE TERM. USUALLY, BUT NOT ALWAYS, INDICATES THE INVOLVED BODY PART. 2. COMBINING FORM: IS A WORD ROOT WITH A VOWEL AT THE END SO THAT A SUFFIX BEGINNING WITH A CONSONANT CAN BE ADDED. 3. SUFFIX: USUALLY, BUT NOT ALWAYS, INDICATES THE PROCEDURE, CONDITION, DISORDER, OR DISEASE. ALWAYS COMES AT THE END OF A WORD.

"1PRIMARY TERMSAPPEAR IN BOLDFACE.2SECONDARY TERMSAPPEAR IN ORANGE. SOME OF THESE TERMS ARE THE : ALSO KNOWN AS"" NAMES OF CONDITIONS OR PROCEDURES.3THE FOUR TYPES OF WORD PARTS1.

4. PREFIX: USUALLY, BUT NOT ALWAYS, INDICATES LOCATION, TIME, NUMBER, OR STATUS. ALWAYS COMES AT THE BEGINNING OF A WORD.4WORD PART GUIDELINES1. A WORD ROOT CANNOT STAND ALONE. A SUFFIX MUST BE ADDED TO COMPLETE THE TERM. 2. RULES FOR CREATING A COMBINING FORM BY ADDING A VOWEL APPLY WHEN A SUFFIX BEGINNING WITH A CONSONANT IS ADDED TO A WORD ROOT.

3. WHEN A PREFIX IS NECESSARY, IT IS ALWAYS PLACES AT THE BEGINNING OF THE WORD.5COMBINING FORM VOWELS1. THE LETTER ""O"" IS THE MOST COMMONLY USED COMBINING VOWEL. 2. WHEN A WORD ROOT IS SHOWN ALONE AS A COMBINING FORM, IT INDICATED A SLASH (/) AND THE COMBINING VOWEL.6RULES FOR USING COMBINING FORM VOWELS1. COMBINING VOWEL IS USED WHEN THE SUFFIX BEGINS WITH A CONSONANT. 2. A COMBINING VOWEL IS NOT USED WHEN THE SUFFIX BEGINS WITH A VOWEL (A,E,I,O,U) 3.

COMBINING VOWEL IS USED WHEN TWO OR MORE WORD ROOTS ARE JOINED.7MYEL/OSPINAL CORD8MY/OMUSCLE9OSTE/OBONE10MYEL/OBONE MARROW11NEUR/ONERVE12ARTHR/OJOINT13TONSILL/OTONSILS14TONSILLITISINFLAMMATION OF THE TONSILS15-ITISINFLAMMATION16TONSILLECTOMYTHE SURGICAL REMOVAL OF THE TONSILS17CARNISKULL18-UMNOUN ENDING19SUFFIXES AS NOUN ENDINGSA NOUN IS A WORD THAT IS THE NAME OF A PERSON PLACE OR THING.

IN MED. TERM. SOME SUFFIXES CHANGE THE WORD ROOT INTO A NOUN. EXAMPLE: CRANIUM IS THE PORTION OF THE SKULL THAT ENCLOSES THE BRAIN. OTHER SUFFIXES COMPLETE THE TERM BY CHANGING THE WORD ROOT INTO A NOUN.20SUFFIXES MEANING ""PERTAINING TO""AN ADJECTIVE IS A WORD THAT DEFINES OR DESCRIBES A THING. IN MEDICAL TERMINOLOGY MANY SUFFIXES MEANING ""PERTAINING TO"" CHANGE THE WORD ROOT INTO AN ADJECTIVE.

EXAMPLE: CARDIAC- AN ADJECTIVE THAT MEANS PERTAINING TO THE HEART.21SUFFIXES MEANING ABNORMAL CONDITIONMANY SUFFIXES, SUCH AS -OSIS, MEANS ""ABNORAML CONDITION OR DISEASE"".22GASTROSISANY DISEASE OF THE STOMACH23GASTRMEANS STOMACH24-OSISABNORMAL CONDITION OR DISEASE25CYAN/OMEANS BLUE26ERYTHR/OMEANS RED27LEUK/OMEANS WHITE28MELAN/OMEANS BLACK29POLL/OMEANS GREY30CYANOSISBLUE DISCOLORATION OF THE SKIN CAUSE BY A LACK OF ADEQUATE OXYGEN IN THE BLOOD31ERYTHROCYTEA MATURE RED BLOOD CELL32-CYTECELL33LEUKOCYTEWHITE BLOOD CELL34MELANOSISANY CONDITION OF UNUSUAL DEPOSITS OF BLACK PIGMENT IN BODY TISSUES OR ORGANS.35POLIOMYELITISA VIRAL INJECTION OF THE GREY MATTER OF THE SPINAL CORD36PATHOLOGYSTUDY OF ALL ASPECTS OF DISEASE37PATHMEANS DISEASE38-OLOGYMEANS THE STUDY OF39-ALGIAPAIN AND SUFFERING40GASTRALGIASTOMACH ACHE41-DYNIAALSO MEANS PAIN, ALTHOUGH IT MEANS THE SAME AS -ALGIA IT IS NOT USED AS COMMONLY.42GASTRODYNIAALSO MEANS STOMACH ACHE43-ITISMEANS INFLAMMATION44GASTRITISINFLAMMATION OF THE STOMACH45-MALACIAABNORMAL SOFTENING46ARTERIOMALACIAABNORMAL SOFTENING OF THE WALLS OF AN ARTERY OR ARTERIES.47-MEGALYENLARGEMENT48HEPATOMEGALYABNORMAL ENLARGEMENT OF THE LIVER49HEPAT/OMEANS LIVER50-NECROSISMEANS TISSUE DEATH51ARTERIONECROSISTISSUE DEATH OF A ARTERY OR ARTERIES52-SCLEROSISABNORMAL HARDENING53ARTERIOSCLEROSISABNORMAL HARDENING OF AN ARTERY OR ARTERIES54-STENOSISABNORMAL NARROWING55ARTERIOSTENOSISABNORMAL NARROWING OF AN ARTERY OR ARTERIES56-CENTESISSURGICAL PUNCTURE TO REMOVE FLUID FOR DIAGNOSTIC PURPOSES OR TO REMOVE EXCESS FLUID57ABDOMINOCENTESISSURGICAL PUNCTURE OF THE OF THE ADBOMINAL CAVITY TO REMOVE FLUID58-GRAPHYMEANS THE PURPOSE OF PRODUCING A PICTURE OR RECORD59ANGIOGRAPHYPROCESS OF PRODUCING A RADIOGRAPHIC (X-RAY) STUDY OF THE BLOOD VESSELS AFTER THE INJECTION OF A CONTRAST MEDIUM TO MAKE THESE BLOOD VESSELS VISIBLE60-GRAMPICTURE OR RECORD61ANGIOGRAMFILM PRODUCED BY ANGIOGRAPHY62ANGI/OBLOOD VESSEL63-PLASTYSURGICAL REPAIR64MYOPLASTYSURGICAL REPAIR OF A MUSCLE65-SCOPYVISUAL EXAMINATION66ARTHROSCOPYTHE VISUAL EXAMINATION OF THE INTERNAL STRUCTURES OF A JOINT67-RRHAGE AND -RRHAGIAMEANS BLEEDING, HOWEVER THEY ARE MOST OFTEN USED TO DESCRIBE SUDDEN, SEVERE BLEEDING68HEMORRAGELOSS OF A LARGE AMOUNT OF BLOOD IN A SHORT TIME69-RRHAPHYSURGICAL SUTURING TO CLOSE A WOUND AND INCLUDES THE USE OF SUTURES, STAPLES, OR SURGICAL GLUE.70MYORRHAPHYSURGICAL SUTURING OF A MUSCLE WOUND71-RRHEAMEANS FLOW OR DISCHARGE AND REFERS TO THE FLOW OF MOST BODY FLUIDS72DIARRHEAIS THE FREQUENT FLOW OR LOOSE OR WATERY STOOLS73DIA-MEANS THROUGH74-RRHEXISRUPTURE75MYORRHEXISRUPTURE OF A MUSCLE76NATALMEANS PERTAINING TO BIRTH77NATMEANS BIRTH78PRENATALMEANS THE TIME AND EVENTS BEFORE BIRTH79PRE-MEANS BEFORE80PERINATALREFERS TO THE TIME AND EVENTS SURROUNDING BIRTH, THIS IS THE TIME JUST BEFORE, DURING, AND JUST AFTER BITH.81PERI-MEANS SURROUNDING82POSTNATALREFERS TO THE TIME AND EVENTS AFTER BIRTH83POST-MEANS AFTER84AB-MEANS AWAY85DYS-MEANS BAD, DIFFICULT, OR PAINFUL86HYPER-MEANS EXCESSIVE OR INCREASED87INTER-MEANS BETWEEN OR AMONG88SUB-MEANS UNDER, LESS, OR BELOW89AD-MEANS TOWARD OR IN THE FIRECTION OF90EU-MEANS GOOD, NORMAL, WELL, OR EASY91HYPO-MEANS DEFICIENT OR DECREASED92INTRA-MEANS WITHIN OR INSIDE93SUPER-, SUPRA-MEANS ABOVE OR EXCESSIVE94ABNORMALMEANS NOT NORMAL OR AWAY FROM NORMAL95DYSFUNCTIONALMEANS AN ORGAN OR BODY PART THAT IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY.96HYPERTENSIONIS HIGHER THAN NORMAL BLOOD PRESSURE97INTERSTITIALMEANS BETWEEN, BOT NOT WITHIN, THAT PARTS OF A TISSUE98SUBCOSTALMEANS BLOW A RIB OR RIBS99ADDICTIONMEANS DRAWN TOWARD OR A STRONG DEPENDENCE ON A DRUG OR SUBSTANCE100EUTHYROIDA NORMALLY FUNCTIONING THYROID GLAND101HYPOTENSIONIS A LOWER THAN NORMAL BLOOD PRESSURE102INTRAMUSCULARMEANS WITHIN THE MUSCLE103SUPRACOSTALMEANS ABOVE OR OUTSIDE THE RIBS104LARYNGMEANS LARYN AND THROAT105RHIN/OMEANS NOSE106OT/OEAR107OTORHINOLARYNGOLOGYTHE STUDY OF THE EARS, NOSE, AND THROAT108TAKING TERMS APART1.

ALWAYS START AT THE END OF THE WORD, WITH THE SUFFIX, AND WORK TOWARD THE BEGINNING "

ow >What Is Insomnia? It is not unusual to have trouble sleeping from time to time. But if you feel that you do not get enough sleep (or enough satisfying sleep), you could possibly have a sleep disorder called insomnia. People with this condition have one or more of the following: Difficulty falling asleep

Insomnia

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Other problems that result from this condition include irritability and a lack of energy. Treatment for insomnia usually involves a combination of things, including eliminating any underlying health problem that could be causing it, taking medication, and using certain behavioral techniques. Depression Introduction This video clip introduces depression, including what it is, what causes depression, and how it is treated. Watch This and Other Videos N

Waking up often during the night and having trouble going back to sleep Waking up too early in the morning Non-refreshing sleep. How Common Is It? About 60 million Americans each year suffer from insomnia, which can lead to serious sleep deficits and problems.

The condition tends to increase with age and affects about 40 percent of women and 30 percent of men. Insomnia and Sleep Insomnia is not defined by the number of hours you sleep every night. The amount of sleep a person needs varies. While most people need between seven and eight hours of sleep a night, some people do well with less, and some need more.

Effects of Insomnia Insomnia can cause problems during the day, such as: Tiredness Lack of energy Difficulty concentrating Irritability. A person with this condition may also have another sleep disorder, such as: Sleep apnea Narcolepsy Restless legs syndrome .

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Dysgraphia is a Greek word. The base word graph refers both to the hand's function in writing and to the letters formed by the hand. The prefix dys indicates that there is impairment. Graph refers to producing letter forms by hand. The suffix ia refers to having a condition. Thus, dysgraphia is the condition of impaired letter writing by hand, that is, disabled handwriting. Impaired handwriting can interfere with learning to spell words in writing and speed of writing text.

Understanding Dysgraphia

Understanding Dysgraphia By: International Dyslexia Association Dysgraphia is a learning disability that affects a child's handwriting.

Children with dysgraphia usually have other problems such as difficulty with written expression. Learn more about causes, the importance of early assessment, dysgraphia and spelling, and effective instructional strategies that strengthen written language skills. What is dysgraphia?

Children with dysgraphia may have only impaired handwriting, only impaired spelling (without reading problems), or both impaired handwriting and impaired spelling. What causes dysgraphia? Research to date has shown orthographic coding in working memory is related to handwriting and is often impaired in dysgraphia. Orthographic coding refers to the ability to store written words in working memory while the letters in the word are analyzed or the ability to create permanent memory of written words linked to their pronunciation and meaning.

Children with dysgraphia do not have primary developmental motor disorder, another cause of poor handwriting, but may have difficulty planning sequential finger movements such as the touching of the thumb to successive fingers on the same hand without visual feedback. Children with dysgraphia may have difficulty with both orthographic coding and planning sequential finger movements.

Does dysgraphia occur alone or with other specific learning disabilities? Children with impaired handwriting may also have attention-deficit disorder (ADHD) — inattentive, hyperactive, or combined inattentive and hyperactive subtypes. Children with this kind of dysgraphia may respond to a combination of explicit handwriting instruction plus stimulant medication, but appropriate diagnosis of ADHD by a qualified professional and monitoring of response to both instruction and medication are needed.

Dysgraphia may occur alone or with dyslexia (impaired reading disability) or with oral and written language learning disability (OWL LD, also referred to as selective language impairment, SLI). Dyslexia is a disorder that includes poor word reading, word decoding, oral reading fluency, and spelling.

Children with dyslexia may have impaired orthographic and phonological coding, rapid automatic naming and focused, switching, and/or sustained attention.

OWL LD (SLI) is impaired language (morphology — word parts that mark meaning and grammar; syntax — structures for ordering words and understanding word functions; finding words in memory, and/or making inferences that go beyond what is stated in text). These disorders affect spoken as well as written language. Children with these language disorders may also exhibit the same writing and reading and related disorders as children with dysgraphia or dyslexia.

Why is diagnosis of dysgraphia and related learning disabilities important? Without diagnosis, children may not receive early intervention or specialized instruction in all the relevant skills that are interfering with their learning of written language. Considering that many schools do not have systematic instructional programs in handwriting and spelling, it is important to assess whether children need explicit, systematic instruction in handwriting and spelling in addition to word reading and decoding.

Many schools offer accommodations in testing and teaching to students with dysgraphia, but these students also need ongoing, explicit instruction in handwriting, spelling, and composition. It is also important to determine if a child with dysgraphia may also have dyslexia and require special help with reading or OWL LD (SLI) and need special help with oral as well as written language.

What kinds of instructional activities improve the handwriting of children with dysgraphia? Initially, children with impaired handwriting benefit from activities that support learning to form letters:playing with clay to strengthen hand muscles;keeping lines within mazes to develop motor control;connecting dots or dashes to create complete letter forms;tracing letters with index finger or eraser end of pencil;imitating the teacher modeling sequential strokes in letter formation; andcopying letters from models.

Subsequently, once children learn to form legible letters, they benefit from instruction that helps them develop automatic letter writing, using the following steps to practice each of the 26 letters of the alphabet in a different order daily:studying numbered arrow cues that provide a consistent plan for letter formation;covering the letter with a 3 x 5 card and imaging the letter in the mind's eye;writing the letter from memory after interval that increases in duration over the handwriting lessons; andwriting letters from dictation (spoken name to letter form).

In addition, to develop handwriting speed, they benefit from writing letters during composing daily for 5 to 10 minutes on a teacher-provided topic.

Students benefit from explicit instruction in spelling throughout K�12:initially in high frequency Anglo-Saxon words;subsequently in coordinating the phonological, orthographic, and morphological processes relevant for the spelling of longer, more complex, less frequent words; andat all grade levels in the most common and important words used for the different academic domains of the curriculum.

Throughout K�12, students benefit from strategies for composing:planning, generating, reviewing/evaluating, and revising compositions of different genre including narrative, informational, compare and contrast, and persuasive; andself-regulation strategies for managing the complex executive functions involved in composing. Do children with dysgraphia make reversals or other letter production errors? Some children do make reversals (reversing direction letter faces along a vertical axis), inversions (flipping letters along a horizontal axis so that the letter is upside down), or transpositions (sequence of letters in a word is out of order).

These errors are symptoms rather than causes of handwriting problems. The automatic letter writing instruction described earlier has been shown to reduce reversals, which are less likely to occur when retrieval of letters from memory and production of letters have become automatic.

What kind of instructional strategies improve spelling of children with dysgraphia? If children have both handwriting and spelling problems, the kinds of handwriting instruction described earlier should be included along with the spelling instruction. Are educators in public schools identifying children with dysgraphia and providing appropriate instruction in public schools?

In general, no. Although federal law specifies written expression as one of the areas in which students with learning disabilities may be affected, it does not clearly identify the transcription problems that are the causal factors in dysgraphia — impaired handwriting and/or spelling — for impaired written expression of ideas. Some of the tests used to assess written expression are not scored for handwriting or spelling problems and mask the nature of the disability in dysgraphia.

Content or ideas may not be impaired. All too often, the poor writing or failure to complete writing assignments in a timely fashion or at all is misattributed to lack of motivation, laziness, or other issues unrelated to the real culprit — dysgraphia.

Children who are twice exceptional — gifted and dysgraphic — are especially under-diagnosed and underserved. Teachers mistakenly assume that if a student is bright and cannot write it is because the student is not trying.

Are there research-supported assessment tools for diagnosing dysgraphia? Yes. See Barnett, Henderson, Scheib, and Schulz (2007), Berninger (2007a), Milone (2007), and Slingerland assessment below for assessing handwriting problems associated with dysgraphia.

Also, see Berninger (2007b) and Berninger, O'Donnell, and Holdnack (2008) for using these tests and other evidence-based assessment procedures in early identification, prevention, and diagnosis for linking assessment results to evidence-based handwriting and spelling instruction (also see Troia, 2008). In summary, dysgraphia is a specific learning disability that can be diagnosed and treated. Children with dysgraphia usually have other problems such as difficulty with written expression.

It is important that a thorough assessment of handwriting and related skill areas be carried out in order to plan specialized instruction in all deficient skills that may be interfering with a student's learning of written language.

For example, a student may need instruction in both handwriting and oral language skills to improve written expression. Although early intervention is, of course, desirable, it is never too late during the school age years to intervene to improve a student's deficient skills and provide appropriate accommodations. Reprint permission Reprints are permitted for educational purposes. This fact sheet may not be reprinted for the purpose of resale. Retrieved from International Dyslexia Association. References International Dyslexia Association, 2012

.-ia 1suff.1. Disease; pathological or abnormal condition: anoxia.

-ia 2

-ia Also found in: Thesaurus, Medical, Encyclopedia

2. Territory; country: Australia. [New Latin, from Latin -ia and Greek -iā, n. suff . ]-ia 2suff. Things derived from, relating to, or belonging to: personalia. [Latin, neuter pl. of -ius, and Greek, neuter pl.

of -ios, n. and adj. suffixes . ]American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fifth Edition. Copyright © 2016 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.-iasuffix forming nouns1. occurring in place names: Albania; Columbia.2. (Pathology) occurring in names of diseases and pathological disorders: pneumonia; aphasia.3. occurring in words denoting condition or quality: utopia.4. (Botany) occurring in names of botanical genera: acacia; poinsettia.5.

(Zoology) occurring in names of zoological classes: Reptilia.6. occurring in collective nouns borrowed from Latin: marginalia; memorabilia; regalia. [ (for senses 1–4) New Latin, from Latin and Greek, suffix of feminine nouns; (for senses 5–6) from Latin, neuter plural suffix]Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged, 12th Edition 2014 © Harper Collins Publishers 1991, 1994, 1998, 2000, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2014-iaan ending of nouns borrowed from Greek and Latin, or coined in English or other languages on a Latin model, that denote esp.

places ( Ethiopia; Georgia; Liberia ), states or conditions,esp. physical disorders ( inertia; insomnia; leukemia; phobia ), or plants ( fuchsia; zinnia ); alsooccurring in other nouns, often orig. or still plural ( bacteria; genitalia; insignia; media) or collective ( academia; militia ). The ending -ia has limited productivity as an English suffix,forming names of disorders ( hypoxia) or plural or collective nouns ( militaria; psychedelia;suburbia ).

Compare -y 2. [< New Latin, Latin, Greek]IAor Ia.,Iowa.i.a.in absentia. Random House Kernerman Webster's College Dictionary, © 2010 K Dictionaries Ltd. Copyright 2005, 1997, 1991 by Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. Want to thank TFD for its existence? Tell a friend about us, add a link to this page, or visit the webmaster's page for free fun content . Link to this page: Facebook Twitter