what is chronometer who invented it

. One of the first movements every watch collector should be familiar with is the ETA 2824-2, which is an automatic movement used in a multitude of timepieces. It’s offered in four grades that include the Standard, Elaborated, Top, and Chronometer.

The ETA Watch Movement Primer

The ETA Watch Movement Primer September 28, 2015 / 5 Comments / in Savoir Vivre, Watches / by J. A. Shapira Most people have never heard of ETA movements and even fewer have any idea of what they actually are. ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is a Swiss watch manufacturer that’s one of the most dominant players in the luxury watch industry. While they do produce their own quartz timepieces, what ETA is really known for is their ébauches and movements that can be found in many watches produced by numerous manufacturers around the world.

It’s been said that if you wear a luxury timepiece that doesn’t have an in-house movement, chances are it is an ETA. I’m inclined to agree. A quartz movement from ETAThe History of ETAFounded back in 1856 by Eterna, the history of ETA predates that by more than half a century.

In fact, experts agree that the ETA line can be traced back as far as 1792 to the creation of Fabriques d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF) by Isaac and David Benguerel and their partners François and Julien Humbert-Droz. Arguably, its success today is derived almost entirely from the consolidation of the Swiss watch industry when former movement manufacturers such as Peseux, Lemania and Valjoux merged today.

A Thomas Cref ETA 2824 Movement In 1856, at the manufacturers home of Grenchen, Switzerland, the soon-to-be Eterna set up a ébauche watch factory that would later be known as the birth of the ETA movement.

Over the course of many years, Eterna developed a separate entity for its movements which it named ETA AS. This movement branch was a merger between Eterna’s movements and FHF and was rebranded as Ebauches Ltd in 1926. By ’78 AS and ETA merged and ETA took over all of the production lines from Ebauches Ltd as well as from the remnants of FHF.

It was during the 1970s that the industry began to change rapidly. The SSIH, founded back in 1930 by Omega and Tissot as well as the ASUAG which also managed a number of brands recognized as being at the top of their games started to see a decline in profits due to the economy.

By 1983, both companies were facing bankruptcy and merged to create a low-cost ‘second watch’ known as the Swatch.

As they restructured, the head of development, Dr. Ernst Thomke, who came from a background at ETA, became the directing force behind the Swatch brand. By 1998, the brand was renamed from Société de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie or SMH to the Swatch Group and today, ETA is a part of that large organization, wholly owned by that parent company.

The Swatch Group ETA Movements ETA is primarily known for its ébauche movements, however, it also produces all of the components that are needed to complete the movement and the watch which is how it is permitted to use the moniker ‘watch manufacturer’ or manufacture d’horlogerie as it’s commonly known.

The movements it produces are primarily used by other brands and not in their own watches, as ETA is best known for their quartz timepieces, and not mechanical watches as their movements are primarily used in.

Many of the brands owned by Swatch utilize the ETA movement as do a significant number of their competing brands from around the world. Today, ETA is by, and large the most prolific movement manufacturer in the world and they provided ébauches and components for thousands of timepieces produced each year.

Over the years, ETA has grown into such a force that it has been the subject of multiple government investigations for its unusual position in the marketplace.

Since it does hold a monopoly, it is governed by very strict practices as agreed to between ETA and various government organizations throughout Europe and parts of the rest of the world. ETA logo The vast majority of ETA movements are used in mechanical and automatic watches produced by luxury watchmakers.

Despite multiple calibers produced by ETA, the quality is considered too exceptional for the bargain watch brands and, therefore, the cost to use their products often requires that they’re only utilized in reasonably high-priced timepieces. Unfortunately, ETA has received a fairly bad rap from horologists who believe that the timepieces that use these mass-produced movements lack quality and creativity.

Most avid watch collectors will, therefore, seek out timepieces that utilize in-house movements created by their own manufacturer. It is considered a deterrent when an expensive watch uses an ETA movement rather than creating their own.

However, many also believe that the ETA movements are more reliable than newer movements produced by the smaller watchmakers who may not have the quality control or investment to ensure longevity and accuracy. The Movements For new collectors and those interested but unfamiliar with the vast number of movements available in the luxury watch market, the ETA movements prove to be a good place to start. In case you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal, we just get a small commission. If you’re going to begin memorizing well-functioning mechanical and automatic movements, it’s wise to focus on the ETA movements when you’re starting a collection

Each of them costing more than the last but all featuring a 25 jewel movement. The biggest differences are the quality of the barrel spring, its shock resistance capabilities, the balance wheel and hairspring as well as the regulator and pallet stones. When it comes to the movement, you get what you pay for, and it’s important to recognize which movement is in the watch you plan to purchase.

Standard grade movements are adjusted in two positions with a rate of +/-12 seconds per day and a maximum variation of +/-30 seconds a day. This makes this movement acceptable for daily wear, inexpensive watches or watches worn irregularly on special occasions.

The elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions, top grade in five and the Chronometer meets the strict standards of the COSC which makes the ETA movement ideal for dive watches and other timepieces where the user relies heavily on its accuracy and quality in various elements. The next movement worth knowing about is the ETA 2892 which is a more elegant version of the basic movement.

This particular caliber dates back to the 1970s and is a 21-jewel, automatic movement available in three grades which include Elaborated, Top, and Chronometer. It is widely considered a more advanced and accurate movement than the 2824 which dates back to the 1950s and is far more basic in architecture.

Finally, it’s worth knowing the even more advanced ETA 2892. A2 that in many watchmakers opinions is of better quality than the base movements produced by Rolex. This particular movement is only found in the most expensive timepieces that utilize ETA components for their watches and often, they are used for a more complicated movement that requires a certified Chronometer such as Breiling and some IWC chronographs.

The design of the 2892. A2 is exceptionally slim and offers an excellent base for any chronograph. In fact, even the Omega coaxial movement used in the Seamaster is based on this movement that was actually used by Omega and rebranded as the Omega 1120 for the Seamaster Professional 300. When Omega began to produce their own coaxial movement known as the Omega 2500, it was largely based on the original movement created for Omega by ETA.

Finally, one other movement worth noting is the Valjoux 7750 which is a chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7733 which offered a quick-set day/date complication.

The 7750 made its mark on the industry by choosing to forgo the column wheel and instead use a Coulisse Levier mechanism that is a three plane cam system that operates the stopwatch.

It’s a prime movement for any chronograph because it offers a variety of upgrades and can include a triple date, or other registers and counters. It is also available in three grades including Elaborated, Top, and Chronometer. Outside of these movements, ETA offers a number of other ébauches and components that are ever-changing in this competitive market.

The Monopoly of ETAWhile many of their initial competitors have gone out of business with the trend of quartz watches coming into power in the 1980s, ETA continued to remain successful and currently holds a monopoly in the industry.

To maintain their market position, ETA has continued to acquire every competing ébauche manufacturer that challenges them and put the rest out of business. If your luxury watch doesn’t have an in-house movement in it, chances are it’s an ETA movement. I am often asked why ETA, which is owned by Swatch, offers its movements to competing watchmakers.

The answer is rather simple. Back in 2003, Nicholas Hayek, who served as the Chairman of Swatch Group at the time, announced that ETA would stop providing ébauches to other watch manufacturers and only brands owned by Swatch would be able to use them. As a result of this announcement, many competing companies complained that if they could no longer buy ETA ébauches, they would have to go out of business.

Many believed that this was the intent of Swatch and another way to flood the market with their products and eliminate the competition.

When word of this was heard by the Swiss Competition Commission, an investigation was launched and Swatch was ordered to continue to supply its competitors with ébauches, but could gradually reduce its provisions to competition companies over the course of two years. This decision was due to the inability of watchmakers to procure ébauches at a similar price. If ETA stopped providing the movements, they would, in effect, be considered a criminal organization under Swiss law that would label them a cartel.

Despite the ability to reduce its offerings to competitors that forced many watchmakers to invest in their own equipment over the years, ETA movements continue to remain the most popular ébauche movements in the world.

Under their new directive from the Swiss government, ETA is allowed to reduce its supply to competitors by 30 percent in 2014-2015, 50 percent in 2016-2017 and by 70 percent by 2018-2019.

It is widely known that ETA is hopeful that by 2023, it will have the ability to choose who it offers its supply to and will be able to restrict sales to certain competitors it does not wish to support. Conclusion It’s not difficult to find an ETA ébauche movement in a watch. There are but a handful of watchmakers that produce their own in-house movements and for the most part, they are rather expensive.

Granted, ETA movements have proven to be highly accurate and reliable, even moreso than many in-house movements, the true collector still favors a watch manufacturer that can creatively produce its own movement.

What do you prefer? Do you own a watch with an ETA movement? Summary Article Name The ETA Watch Movement Primer Description A detailed history of the ETA, its movements and monopoly over the Swiss watch market. Author J. A. Shapira If you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal, we just get a small commission. Thank you!Tags: movements, Swiss, Watch, watch buying guides, watches, wristwatch Share this entry

By 1761, he had built a marine chronometer with a spring and balance wheel escapement that won the British government's 1714 prize (worth more than $10,000,000 in today's currency) for a means of determining longitude to within one-half degree after a voyage to the West Indies.

Pendulum clock

"A pendulum clock uses a pendulum as its time base. From their invention until about 1930, the most accurate clocks were pendulum clocks. Pendulum clocks cannot operate on vehicles, because the accelerations of the vehicle drive the pendulum, causing inaccuracies.

See chronometer for a discussion of the problems of navigational clocks. History In 1656, Christiaan Huygens, a Dutch scientist, made the first pendulum clock, regulated by a mechanism with a ""natural"" period of oscillation. ( Galileo Galilei is credited with inventing the pendulum-clock concept, and he studied the motion of the pendulum as early as 1582. He even sketched out a design for a pendulum clock, but he never actually constructed one before his death in 1642 .) Huygens' early pendulum clock had an error of less than 1 minute a day, the first time such accuracy had been achieved.

His later refinements reduced his clock's error to less than 10 seconds a day. Huygens obtained a patent in 1657 and within a few weeks, the English clockmaker Ahasuerus Fromanteel secured production rights, and began the tradition of English longcase (grandfather) clocks.

Around 1675, Huygens developed the balance wheel and spring assembly, still found in some of today's wristwatches.

This improvement allowed portable 17th century watches to keep time to 10 minutes a day. And in London in 1671, William Clement began building clocks with the new "" anchor "" or ""recoil"" escapement, a substantial improvement over the verge because it interferes less with the motion of the pendulum. In 1721, George Graham improved the pendulum clock's accuracy to 1 second per day by compensating for changes in the pendulum's length due to temperature variations. John Harrison, a carpenter and self-taught clock-maker, refined Graham's temperature compensation techniques and developed new methods for reducing friction.

It kept time on board a rolling ship to about one-fifth of a second a day, nearly as well as a pendulum clock could do on land, and 10 times better than required to win the prize. Over the next century, refinements led in 1889 to Siegmund Riefler 's clock with a nearly free pendulum, which attained an accuracy of a hundredth of a second a day and became the standard in many astronomical observatories.

A true free-pendulum principle was introduced by R. J. Rudd about 1898, stimulating development of several free-pendulum clocks. One of the most famous, the W. H. Shortt clock, was demonstrated in 1921. The Shortt clock almost immediately replaced Riefler's clock as a supreme timekeeper in many observatories.

This clock contained two pendulums, one a slave and the other a master. The slave pendulum gave the master pendulum the gentle pushes needed to maintain its motion, and also drove the clock's hands. This allowed the master pendulum to remain free from mechanical tasks that would disturb its regularity.

Ths Shortt clock was the first device accurate enough to detect seasonal variations in the rotation of the Earth. Mechanism Pendulum clocks have several parts: The pendulum swings with a designed period. To keep time accurately, pendulums are usually made to not vary in length when the temperature changes. John Harrison invented the grid pendulum, which used the differential expansion of brass and steel to achieve a zero-expansion pendulum.

Modern clocks use a low-expansion alloy such as invar. Astronomical pendulums were often constructed of fused quartz, which changes length even less because of temperature. Pendulums are frequently polished and streamlined to reduce the randomizing effects of turbulent air flow on the clock's accuracy.

In the late 19th century and early 20th century, pendulums for clocks in astronomical observatories were often operated in a vacuum to make the pendulum's operation even more accurate. The escapement drives the pendulum, usually from a gear train. It is the part that ticks. Escapements have a locking state, and a drive state.

In the locking state, nothing moves. The motion of the pendulum switches the escapement to drive, and the escapement then pushes on the pendulum for a brief part of the pendulum's cycle.

In the late 19th century, electromechanical escapements were developed. In these, a switch or phototube turned an electromagnet on for a brief section of the pendulum's swing. These are the most precise escapements known. They were usually employed with vacuum pendulums on astronomical clocks. The pulse of electricity that drove the pendulum would also drive a plunger to move the gear train.

In the 20th century W. H. Shortt invented a twin pendulum clock with an accuracy of one hundredth of a second per day. In this system the time keeping pendulum does no work and its movement is monitored by electrical devices which drive a slave pendulum which impulses the master pendulum.

This form of clock became a standard for use in observatories. To convert the motion of the escapement into an accurate analogue representation using 'hands' a gear train divides the motion of the escapement. Usually there are at least two gears: an hour gear, and a minute gear. These two gears are directly connected to the indicators (hands). It is customary to make smaller gears more precisely, from more expensive materials in order to reduce wear.

Modern gear trains use involute gears, with tooth shapes that are an engineered compromise between efficiency and wear. Older clocks use cycloidal gears. The oldest clocks had hand-cut gears, some use gears made from interpenetrating cages of rods known as lantern pinons.

The indicators and clock face show the current time. Premium pendulum clocks often drive bells, whistles ( cuckoo clocks) and dolls in order to help announce the time. The slowest part of the gear train is attached to an energy storage device. This is either a spring, or a set of weights that pull on a cogwheel. See also Pendulum Escapement "

A chronometer's mechanical movement is close to perfection, so the time it displays is almost always accurate (unlike other self-winding or automatic watches), and therefore carries a premium price over non-chronometer watches.

Things You Need To Know About Watches

"8 Things About Watches | Style School sharei Error 4: Media source is incompatible with player or browser.1:55Things You Need To Know About Watches James Fiori Share Tweet 0Shares1 2 3Page 1 of 3 Few things say more about a man than his watch. Its character, look and style can give others a peek into a man's background (and priorities) without having to ask a single question.

That is why purchasing a watch is such a personal — and important — decision. Of course, there are men out there who only need a watch to tell time, and for those guys a watch whose price ends with .99 would suffice.

But for the rest of us, a watch has a more prominent meaning (and for the select few who dabble in the Rolex territory, it can even be an investment opportunity).watch this guide We all understand the basic concept of a watch (it tells time, most work with quartz movement and are battery operated, etc.).

A deeper understanding, though, can help you recognize the subtle differences between different timepieces.

Comprehending these intricacies will not only help you make the best possible purchase according to your needs, but may even save you money.

So here are eight questions you need answered when it comes to watches. This crash course won't necessarily make you an expert on the subject, but it will help you become a very well informed consumer.1- Is a Rolex worth the high price? There are two possible answers to this question, and I still haven't figured out which one is right.

Why do some people automatically say ""no""? Because the Rolex corporation artificially inflates the price of its watches by limiting the yearly supply of some of its collections (the Daytona is notorious for being near impossible to find), leading to scarcity in the market. It is a strategy similar to the one employed by De Beers, the world's largest diamond retailer, which limits the supply of diamonds on the market to keep prices high (even if De Beers has plenty stored in its safes).

Rolex also meticulously (and some say dictatorially) controls its authorized dealer system to make sure that all watches are sold at its suggested retail price. Any dealer that sells a Rolex at a discount is subject to having his dealer status revoked. So since it is nearly impossible to get a new real Rolex at a discount, you will always pay a premium for the name (thanks to smart marketing by Rolex execs) and not necessarily for the craftsmanship (though it is still very high).

That is why many watch experts say that, for the cost of a Rolex, you can get a higher caliber mechanical watch from a different company.

On the other hand, some firmly believe that a Rolex is worth the price because it is still a premium watch made with the highest level of craftsmanship. The artificially inflated prices also help Rolexes maintain their extremely high resale value. And, of course, you can't underestimate the cachet value of a Rolex. The status and prestige it projects can, in certain people's eyes, justify its exorbitant price. More than any other regularly produced watch, owning a Rolex is an investment and a status symbol, more than it is a teller of time.

If you want to buy a watch purely on its mechanical merits, nothing beats a Piaget or a Jaeger.2- What do ""chronometer"" and ""chronograph"" mean? Chronometer is a designation given to a watch that has the highest standard of precision. The designation is given to automatic and mechanical movement watches, not those that run with quartz movement. A watch carrying the chronometer certification has passed vigorous tests demanded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC).

The 15 days of rigorous tests conducted by the COSC include testing its performance under different temperatures, different positions, and even under water. A chronograph designation is often confused with a chronometer one, though they are completely different.

A chronograph is basically a watch with stopwatch capabilities. It displays different counters or mechanisms for measuring elapsed time. Counters can register seconds, minutes and hours. This gives its owner the ability to time anything he wants. Don't even think about buying a watch until you read the following... Next Page "

In the race for the invention of an accurate timekeeping device, John Harrison, a carpenter in Yorkshire, invented a spring based clock i n 1764. His invention was the most important advance to marine navigation in the three millennia that mariners had been going to sea.

The Marine Chronometer: A Breakthrough in Celestial Navigation.

The Marine Chronometer: A Breakthrough in Celestial Navigation.written by: Manu • edited by: Lamar Stonecypher • updated: 2/14/2009Christopher Columbus was so lost without a marine chronometer that he landed up in America looking for India.

One of the big reasons for this was that, although the latitude of any place could be calculated easily, calculating Longitude was always a problem before the advent of the chronometer. The Elusive Longitude Before the marine chronometer was invented, Latitude could be found quite accurately with celestial navigation and older instruments like the astrolabe. However, longitude could only be estimated, because an accurate determination of longitude is made by comparing time differences.

Older clocks could lose upto 10 minutes a day, which meant a possible daily error in ship’s position of at least 150 miles!The determination of Longtitude was such a problem that the ‘ Longitude Prize’ was offered by the British government in 1714, when an Act of Parliament was passed for this purpose.

A total prize of 20000 GBP, a huge sum in those days, was offered to anybody who could calculate longitude within a 30 mile accuracy. Harrison's Chronometer John Harrison's Solution The more accurate pendulum clocks of the time were useless at sea as ships always roll in heavy seas, making pendulums unworkable.

In fact, fifteen years later- in 1779- British explorer explorer Captain James Cook used Harrison's chronometer to circumnavigate the globe. On his return, it was found that his calculations of longitude based on the chronometer were accurate to within 8 miles!

Harrison won a total of 14500 GBP over a period of time for his invention. The nature of navigation had undergone a sea change. Long By Chron The simplest way of determining longitude at sea using celestial navigation is called, even today, the ‘longitude by chronometer’ or ‘long by chron' method. This involves, simply, taking two ‘sights’ (altitudes) of the sun with a sextant, one around 9am and the other around noon.

A simple ‘running fix’, which transfers the first position line (Literally, a line on a chart. The ship can be on any point on this line) obtained to the ship's approximate position at noon then determines latitude (obtained solely from the noon sight) and longitude at noon.

Care of the Marine Chronometer Today a cheap quartz watch keeps accurate time, and many chronometers on ships are battery operated. However, even thirty years ago before these were easily available, the daily routine at sea involved treating the chronometer with great care- daily careful winding, protection against ship’s rolling to avoid damage and a careful tallying of the chronometer time with a time signal on the radio to confirm the accuracy of the marine chronometer on a daily basis. References Harrison’s Chronometer Image - www.sailingwarship.com


what is mamey

There are many that can be grown. Corn, okra, bell peppers, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, cukes, green beans, potatoes, onions, and more. Many tropical fruits also. One popular fruit is called a ""mamey"", looks like this.

What fruits/vegetables can grow in Cuba?

"Home & Garden Garden & Landscape What fruits/vegetables can grow in Cuba? Or generally, in the Caribbean? Most importantly, can strawberries be grown? I don't think they can but just want to make sure. Update: acai and goji too?1 following 3 answers Answers Relevance Rating Newest Oldest Best Answer: They can grow and look beautiful but are not sweet and usually sour because they need a cold front to move through to lower the temps to sweeten them up.

I live in south Florida where we have thousands of acres of strawberries growing now. Because we had a warm winter (90F today) we did not have a sweet crop. As far as other vegetables?

https://www.google.com/search?q=mamey+fr... tastes like avocado to me. Others include, longam, lychee, rambutan, dragon fruit, sapodilla, avocado, mango, pineapple, guava, monstera deliciosa, banana, carambola, chocolate, sugar apples, lots of yummy fruit!No stress · 5 years ago0 0 Comment Asker's rating Probably most fruits and vegetables that don't need a low chill in the winter like peaches and apples. But there are many tropical fruits to take their place. mangos and papayas. I'm sure strawberries will grow.

Joyce E · 5 years ago1 0 Commentpotatoes? · 1 year ago0 0 Comment Maybe you would like to learn more about one of these? Try online nursing courses? Need Home Equity Loan Options? Earn your MBA online! Find Moving Container Services "

st. I put my Coconut Chicken Strips on a bed of mixed kale greens. I came across a beautiful Mamey Sapote in the grocery store and added about ½ cup of the fruit to each salad. A Mamey Sapote is a fruit native to Central America. I think it has a texture similar to a papaya but a flavor that reminds me of sweet potato.

Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips

Paleo Coconut Chicken Stripson August 21, 2012 5 comments »Looking for a new and healthy way to prepare chicken? This tropical spin on chicken tenders is a recipe you will put on repeat. These Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips are extremely simple to prepare and versatile for plating with other foods.

All it involves is a simple dusting of salt and pepper, an egg wash, and dipping in unsweetened coconut flakes. That’s it! Your oven takes care of the re

It’s beautiful and delicious. I topped the salad off with a generous dose of Tequila Lime Dressing and toasted with a glass of perfectly chilled Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc.

Enjoy!Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips Approximate Nutrition Facts: Serving size: 3-4 strips (~5 oz)Makes Approximately 4 Adult Servings460 Calories; 25 g Fat; 49 g Protein; 2 g Sugar Ingredients:2 Raw Chicken Breasts (or 1.3 lbs chicken tenders)2 tsp Kosher Salt2 tsp Cracked Black Pepper1 Large Egg1 cup Unsweetened Coconut Flakes Directions: Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Wash and dry your chicken. If you’re starting with chicken breasts, cut them into strips.

Lightly salt and pepper each side of the raw chicken. In a bowl, whisk the egg for the egg bath. Pour the unsweetened coconut flakes on a large plate. Dip each chicken strip into the egg bath and then lay on the bed of coconut. Pat down and flip to ensure the coconut sticks.

Place immediately on the aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Bake at 375 F for 20 minutes. Time: 30 minutes THE MEAL: Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips on Mamey Sapote Kale Salad w/Tequila Lime Dressing Approximate Nutrition Facts: Serving size: 3-4 strips + 2.5 cups salad + 2 Tbl dressing Makes 1 Adult Serving630 Calories; 30 g Fat; 51 g Protein; 14 g Sugar Ingredients:3 Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips2 cups Mixed Kale Greens½ cup Mamey Sapote2 Tbl Tequila Lime Dressing Directions: Plate kale greens with Mamey Sapote. Top with the Paleo Coconut Chicken Strips. Finish with Tequila Lime Dressing. Time: 5 minutesposted in Dinner, Dressings, Fruit, Gluten Free, Lunch, Paleo, Salad 5 comments »

t.1Select a ripe sapote fruit and cut it open with a knife. Extract the seeds and rinse them of all pulp.2Crack the coat of each seed before planting to increase chances of germination. Place a seed between two wooden boards and apply light pressure to the top board. A hairline crack in the seed is ideal.3Plant sapote seeds in soil-free potting medium, no more than 14 days after harvesting, since sapote seeds do poorly in storage. Make sure that the pointed side of each seed faces up 1/2-inch from the surface of the soil. Water each seed deeply.

How to Grow Sapote From Seed

"Related Articles How to Grow a Mamey How to Grow Sapodilla How to Germinate the Black Sapote Tree How to Graft the Mamey Sapote Sapote, a word derived from the Aztec term for sweet fruit, ""tzapotl,"" has influenced the nomenclature of a few different types of fruit trees.

The common name refers to Pouteria sapota, also known as the mamey sapote, mamey colorado or Calocarpum sapota, and not the similar-sounding, but unrelated, black and white sapotes.

This South and Central American native species, hardy in U. S. Department of Agriculture cold hardiness zones 10 to 12, can reach up to 60 feet in height. Sapote is known for its 3 to 8 inch long fruit, which features pink or red pulp and one to four large seeds inside. Seed propagation of sapote is common; however, trees grown from seed can take up to seven years to produce frui

4Continue watering deeply throughout germination, which occurs in two to four weeks, and through seedling growth, keeping the potting medium moist.

Once seedlings outgrow their pots, transfer them to increasingly larger containers.5Select an outdoor planting space once trees grow between 2 and 4 feet tall. Choose an area with well-drained soil that receives full sun, and with no nearby structures.6Water each sapote tree thoroughly before planting. Dig holes 30 feet apart that are three to four times wider than the root ball and three times as deep as the tree's container.

Backfill and tamp down soil once trees are planted.7Mulch newly planted sapote trees with 2 to 6 inches of wood chip mulch, staying 8 to 12 inches away from the trunk of each tree.

Water each tree with 1 to 2 inches of water. Things You Will Need Sapote fruit Knife2 wooden boards Soil-free potting medium Peat pots Assorted potting containers Shovel Wood chip mulch Warning Fertilize young trees when new growth appears each year for the first three years.

Apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen content, such as 6-6-6-2, applying no more than 1/2-pound per tree in the first year and 0.8 pounds in the second year, eventually graduating to 3 to 5 pounds in the third year.

References (3)University of Florida IFAS Extension: Mamey Sapote Growing in the Florida Home Landscape Purdue University Center for New Crops and Plant Products: Pouteria sapota Florida State Horticultural Society: Propagation of the Mamey Sapote Resources (1)Crops for the Future: Pouteria About the Author A writer with a Bachelor of Science in English and secondary education, but also an interest in all things beautiful, Melissa J.

Bell has handed out beauty and fashion advice since she could talk -- and for the last six years, write for online publications like Daily Glow and She Budgets. Photo Credits Brand X Pictures/Brand X Pictures/Getty Images Cite this Article "

Sapote (from Nahuatl tzapotl) [1] is a word for a soft, edible fruit. The word is part of the names of several plants from Mexico, Central America and northern parts of South America that have fruits. Some but not all sapotes come from the family Sapotaceae:

Sapote

"From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedianavigation search

Sapotaceae sapotes: Sapodilla ( Manilkara zapota) is native to Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Belize, and possibly El Salvador. Yellow sapote ( Pouteria campechiana) is from Mexico and Central America. Mamey sapote ( Pouteria sapota) is from southern Mexico to northern South America. Green sapote ( Pouteria viridis) is native to lowland southern Mexico. Ebenaceae sapotes: Black sapote ( Diospyros digyna) is from eastern Mexico south to Colombia.

This is probably the original Aztec tzapotl. Chapote ( Diospyros texana) is from the lower Rio Grande valley region in Texas and Mexico Other sapotes White sapote ( Casimiroa edulis: Rutaceae) is from northern and central Mexico, Costa Rica, El Salvador and Guatemala. [2]South American sapote ( Quararibea cordata: Malvaceae) is from the Amazon rainforests of Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru.

Black sapote White sapote South American sapote Lòng mứt, a kind of Vietnamese sapote Mamey sapote Sapodilla Yellow sapote References [ change | change source]↑ Watson, George (April 1938). ""Nahuatl Words in American English"". American Speech 13 (2): 113–114.↑ ""Casimiroa edulis"". Germplasm Resources Information Network. United States Department of Agriculture. Retrieved 2009-03-26. Category: Fruits "

e White sapote trees in the home landscape are susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 or more feet (0.6–1.5 m) away from the trunk of the tree. Never hit the tree trunk with lawn mowing equipment and never use a weed eater near the tree trunk.

White Sapote Growing in the Home Landscape 1

"�White Sapote Growing in the Home Landscape 1Jonathan H. Crane and Carlos F. Balerdi 2Scientific Name: Casimiroa edulis and C. tetrameria and hybrids Common Names: white sapote and casimiroa (English), zapote blanco (Spanish), sapote blanc (French)Family: Rutaceae Relatives: Wooly leaf white sapote ( C. tetrameria)Origin: Highlands of central Mexico and Central America.

Distribution: Throughout tropical highland and subtropical areas of Latin America, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean region, India, Southeast Asia, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. History: White sapote was introduced into the US circa 1810. Importance: White sapote is generally harvested from seedling trees and sold in local markets. However, white sapote is grown on a small commercial scale in the US, Australia, and Mexico. Description Tree Medium to large trees; 15 ft to 60 ft (4.6–18.3 m).

Trees may have an upright to spreading growth habit. Leaves Leaves are palmately compound with 3 to 7 leaflets (usually 5). Leaflets are lanceolate, 3 to 5 inches long (7.6–12.7 cm) and 1 to 2 inches wide (2.54–5.0 cm). Inflorescence (Flowers)Flowers are held in terminal or axillary panicles with 15 to 100 flowers or more.

Flowers are small (3/8 inch [1 cm] in diameter]), pale green to cream colored, 5 sepals, petals, and stamens. Some varieties produce only functionally female flowers, whereas others produce hermaphroditic flowers.

Fruit White sapote is a drupe with a thin, greenish-yellow to yellow to golden yellow peel, 2 ½ inches to 4 ½ inches (6-11 cm) or more in diameter, and weigh between 2.5–24.7 oz (70–700 g).

The pulp is sweet, white to off-white and smooth. Some varieties or seedling fruit may have a slightly bitter aftertaste, especially the pulp near the peel. The number of seeds varies from 1 to 5, and they are poisonous. Pollination White sapote flowers are pollinated by insects. Some varieties may only produce functionally female flowers and thus require cross pollination for good fruit production.

Varieties There are a numerous white sapote varieties, and a number of varieties are available in the U. S. and Florida (Table 1). Commonly available varieties include ‘Reinikie’, ‘Dade’, ‘Pike’, ‘Suebelle’, ‘Smathers’, ‘Homestead’, and ‘Golden’. Climate White sapote trees are best adapted to subtropical climates with a distinct cool and or dry period.

Trees do produce well in the dry tropics or those areas with a distinct dry period. A period of environmentally induced (i.e., cool temperatures and/or dry period) dormancy leads to flowering once warm temperatures and/or the rainy season commences.

White sapote trees are moderately tolerant of freezing temperatures with young trees damaged or killed at temperatures at or below 24°F (-4°C) and mature trees damaged or killed at temperatures at or below 26°F (-3°C). Propagation White sapote trees may be propagated by seed or vegetatively. Seeds should be planted within 3 weeks of harvesting from the fruit, and seedlings may begin to bear in 7 to 8 years.

White sapote varieties do not come true to seed and therefore must be vegetatively propagated by grafting or budding onto seedling rootstock. Grafting and budding is most sucessful during the warm season when trees are actively growing. Production (Crop Yields)Although not extensively documented, white sapote trees are reported to be very productive.

Trees generally flower from late fall to early summer. The harvest season varies with variety but generally is during the spring and summer. Spacing Although white sapote grows moderately slowly, trees that are not pruned eventually need a lot of space because they will develop a large canopy.

White sapote trees in the home landscape should be planted 25 ft (7.6 m) or more feet away from the nearest tree and/or structure. Trees planted too close to other trees or structures may not grow normally or produce much fruit due to shading. Soils White sapote trees are well-adapted to most well-drained soils from sands, to clays, to limestone-based soils. Planting a White Sapote Tree Proper planting is one of the most important steps in successfully establishing and growing a strong, productive tree.

The first step is to choose a healthy nursery tree. Commonly, nursery white sapote trees are grown in 3-gallon (11-liter) containers, and trees stand 2 to 4 ft (0.6–1.2 m) from the soil media.

Large trees in smaller containers should be avoided because the root system may be ""root bound."" This means all the available space in the container has been filled with roots to the point that the tap root is growing along the edge of the container in a circular fashion.

Root bound root systems may not grow properly once planted in the ground. Inspect the tree for insect pests and diseases, and inspect the trunk of the tree for wounds and constrictions. Select a healthy tree and water it regularly in preparation for planting in the ground. Site Selection In general, white sapote trees should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production.

Select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures, and power lines. Remember, sapote trees can become very large if not pruned to contain their size.

Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rains. Planting in Sandy Soil Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1-m) ring of grass sod.

Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the white sapote tree came in. Making a large hole loosens the soil next to the new tree, making it easy for the roots to expand into the adjacent soil.

It is not necessary to apply fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact, placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then planting on top of it is not desirable.

If you wish to add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with the excavated soil in no more than a 1:1 ratio. Backfill the hole with some of the excavated soil removed. Remove the tree from the container and place it in the hole so that the top of the soil media from the container is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil level.

Fill soil in around the tree roots and tamp slightly to remove air pockets. Immediately water the soil around the tree and tree roots.

Staking the tree with a wooden or bamboo stake is optional. However, do not use wire or nylon rope to tie the tree to the stake because they may eventually damage the tree trunk as it grows. Use a cotton or natural fiber string that will degrade slowly. Planting in Rockland Soil Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very shallow soil, and several inches below the soil surface is a hard calcareous bedrock.

Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1-m) ring of grass sod. Make a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the white sapote tree came in. To dig a hole, use a pick and digging bar to break up the rock or contract with a company that has augering equipment or a backhoe.

Plant the tree as described for sandy soils. Planting on a Mound Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft or so of the water table and experience occasional flooding after heavy rains.

To improve plant survival, consider planting fruit trees on a 2- to 3-ft-high by 4- to 10-ft-diameter (0.6- to 0.9-m by 1.2- to 3.1-m) mound of native soil. After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the tree has come in.

In areas where the bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil); follow the recommendations for the previous section. In areas with sandy soil, follow the recommendations from the section on planting in sandy soil. Care of White Sapote Trees in the Home Landscape A calendar outlining the month-to-month cultural practices for white sapote is shown in Table 2.

Fertilizer White sapote does not appear to be demanding in its fertilizer requirements. After planting, when new growth begins, apply 1/4 lb (113 g) of a young tree fertilizer such as a 6-6-6-2 (%nitrogen-% phosphate-% potash-% magnesium) with minor elements with 20 to 30% of the nitrogen from organic sources.

Repeat this every 6 to 8 weeks for the first year, then gradually increase the amount of fertilizer to 0.5, 0.75, 1.0 lb (227 g, 341 g, 454 g) as the tree grows. Use 4 to 6 minor element (nutritional) foliar sprays per year from April to September. White sapote trees generally do not develop iron deficiency, even when grown in the rocky, calcareous, high-p H soils of Miami-Dade County.

If iron deficiency symptoms appear (chlorotic leaves with green veins) apply iron. For trees in acid to neutral soils, apply dry iron sulfate at 0.25 to 1 oz per tree (7–28 g) to the soil 2 to 4 timers per year; water the iron into the ground. In alkaline soils with a high-p H, drench the soil adjacent to the tree trunk with iron chelate 1 to 2 times per year from June through September.

Table 2 summarizes the fertilizer recommendations for white sapote. For mature trees, 2.5 to 5.0 lbs (1.1–2.3 kg) of fertilizer per application 2 to 3 times per year is recommended.

The fertilizer mix should also include phosphate (P 2 O 5) and potash (K 2 O); use a 6-6-6, 8-3-9 or similar material. Use 2 to 3 minor element (nutritional) foliar sprays per year from April to September. Table 2 summarizes the fertilizer recommendations for white sapote. Irrigation (Watering)Newly planted white sapote trees should be watered at planting and every other day for the first week or so, and then 1 to 2 times a week for the first couple of months. During prolonged dry periods (e.g., 5 or more days of little to no rainfall), newly planted and young white sapote trees (first 3 years) should be watered once a week. Once the rainy season arrives, irrigation frequency may be reduced or stopped. Once white sapote trees are 4 or more years old, watering will be beneficial to plant growth and crop yields only during very prolonged dry periods during the year. Mature white sapote trees do not need frequent watering, and over watering may cause trees to decline or be unthrifty. White Sapote Trees and Lawn Car

e White sapote trees in the home landscape are susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 or more feet (0.6–1.5 m) away from the trunk of the tree. Never hit the tree trunk with lawn mowing equipment and never use a weed eater near the tree trunk.

Mechanical damage to the trunk of the tree will weaken the tree, and if severe enough, can cause dieback or kill the tree. Roots of mature white sapote trees spread beyond the drip-line of the tree canopy, and heavy fertilization of the lawn next to white sapote trees is not recommended, because it may reduce fruiting and or fruit quality.

The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer may result in over watering and cause white sapote trees to decline.

This is because too much water too often applied causes root rot. Mulch Mulching white sapote trees in the home landscape helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems next to the tree trunk, and improves the soil near the surface. Mulch with a 2- to 6-inch (5- to 15-cm) layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material. Keep mulch 8 to 12 inches (20–30 cm) from the trunk.

Insect Pests There are few insect problems, although some varieties may be susceptible to fruit fly attack. Scales occasionally attack leaves. Contact your local UF/IFAS Extension agent for current control recommendations. Diseases Some varieties are susceptible to scab, which causes irregularly-shape brown corky areas on the peel surface that usually split.

Contact your local UF/IFAS Extension agent for current control recommendations. Pruning Formative pruning during the first 2 years may be desirable to encourage lateral branching and growth. After several years of production, it is desirable to cut back the tops of the trees to 10 to 15 feet (3.1 to 4.6 m).

Selectively removing a few upper limbs back to their origins (crotches) each year will help prevent the loss of the lower tree canopy due to shading by the upper canopy. In addition, maintaining a smaller tree facilitates tree care and fruit harvest, makes it easier to spray the tree, and greatly reduces possible storm damage.

Do not remove lower tree branches. Pruning should be done soon after harvest. Annual or biannual selective pruning can control the spread and limit tree height to 10- to 15-ft. Once white sapote trees become 30 ft (9.1 m) or taller, extreme caution should be used in pruning the trees.

Climbing trees to prune them is dangerous and not recommended. Pruning of large white sapote trees should be done by a professional arborist that is licensed and insured. Harvest, Ripening, and Storage Mature fruits may be picked several days before natural fruit drop occurs and should be clipped, leaving a small piece of stem attached. When the fruit becomes ripe, the stem falls off. Fruit should be handled very carefully because the peel is very thin and susceptible to damage, and the pulp below bruises generally becomes bitter.

Harvested fruit should be ripened at room temperature (26-28°C). Once ripe it may be stored for 7 to 10 days in the refrigerator. Uses White sapote is commonly eaten fresh but may be an ingredient in milk shakes and desserts. Tables Table 1.

White sapote varieties in Florida. 1Variety Origin Fruit weight (oz/grams)Peel color Pulp color Comments Blumenthal California5–6/148–160pale yellowcreamy whitefair-good Dade Florida6–7/180–215golden-yellow tinged with greencreamy white Good flavor, non-bitter flavor Denzler California11–13/375–390yellowyellowgood flavor Golden (Max Golden)California4–5/118–148yellow-greencreamy whitestrong flavor, some bitterness Homestead Florida6–7/200gyellow-greencreamy white Good flavor, non-bitter flavor Mc Dill Calfornia12–16/355–454greenish-yellowcreamy whitegood flavor Pike California8–9/250–270light greenwhite to yellowrich, non-bitter flavor Reinekie (Reineke Commerical)California7–8/200–235golden yellowyellowgood flavor Smathers Florida8–9/250–275greenish-yellowyellowfair flavor Suebelle Californiasmallgreen to yellowish-greenwhiteexcellent flavor, sweet Yellow California9–10/275–290bright yellowpale yellowgood flavor1 Some varieties may be difficult to find in the nursery trade in Florida; try California nurseries.

Table 2. Cultural calendar for mature white sapote trees in the home landscape. Operation Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec General NPK 1Apply NPKApply NPKApply NPKNutritional sprays 2Apply 2 to 3 foliar nutritional sprays during the warm period of the year.

Iron applications3Apply iron during the warm period of the year. Watering Water only during prolonged dry periods. Water only during prolonged dry periods. Insect control Monitor for insect infestations. Contact your local UF/IFAS Extension agent for current control recommendations. Disease control Monitor for disease infestations. Contact your local UF/IFAS Extension agent for current control recommendations.

Pruning Selectively prune to limit tree size and open the canopy to wind movement.1 NPK, nitrogen-phosphate-potash. Many formulations also contain magnesium (Mg).2 Nutritional sprays should contain manganese, zinc, and other micronutrients.3 Dry ferrous (iron) sulfate may be applied to trees growing in low-p H soils; use chelated iron soil drenches for trees growing in high-p H soils.

Table 3. Suggested fertilizer recommendations for white sapote in Florida. Year Times per year Amount/tree/ application (lbs) 1Total amount/tree/ year (lbs)Minor element sprays (times/ year) 2Iron chelate drenches (oz/ tree/year) 314–60.25–0.51.0–3.04-60.5–0.7524–60.5–1.02.0–6.04-60.75–1.034–61.0–1.54.0–9.04-61.0–1.542–32.0–2.54.0–7.52-31.5–252–32.5–3.05.0–9.02-32-462–33.0–4.06.0–12.02-32–47+2–34.0–4.58.0–13.52-32–41 Use 6-6-6, 8-3-9, or a young-tree or slow-release fertilizer.2 The spray should contain zinc, manganese, boron, molybdenum; it may also contain iron. Foliar sprays are most effecient from April to September.3 Iron chelate soil drenches (iron plus water) will prevent iron deficiency; foliar sprays are generally not effective.

Apply soil drenches from June to September. Table 4. Nutrient value of white sapote fruit (3.5 oz or 100 g of fruit). z Constituent Amount Moisture78.3 g Protein0.143 g Fat0.03 g Fiber0.9g Ash0.48g Calcium9.9 mg Phosphorus20.4 mg Iron0.33 mg Carotene0.053 mg Thiamine0.042 mg Riboflavin0.043 mg Niacin0.472 mg Ascorbic acid30.3 mgz Morton, J.

1987. Fruits of Warm Climates. J. Morton Publ. p. 191–196. Footnotes1. This document is HS1054, one of a series of the Horticultural Sciences Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date November 2005. Revised November 2016. Visit the EDIS website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.2. Jonathan H. Crane, professor and tropical fruit crop specialist, Tropical Research and Education Center; and Carlos F. Balerdi, professor and multi-county tropical fruit crop Extension agent IV (retired), UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade County; UF/IFAS Extension, Gainesville, FL 32611.

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. For more information on obtaining other UF/IFAS Extension publications, contact your county's UF/IFAS Extension office. U. S. Department of Agriculture, UF/IFAS Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A & M University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Nick T. Place, dean for UF/IFAS Extension. "

ip? I ate the smashed one Whole Food let me have free for seed (unsanitary. But it smelled so good, and I already live in New Orleans and have an astonishing immune system ) and now I am addicted and gotta have some more White Sapote. The following thread was started by drasaid on April 07, 2005 at 3:38 pm PSTY

"Growing White Sapote from seed...worth it at all? I live in New Orleans and it seems every block here has its kumquat/satsuma/lemon citris so I thought a White Sapote would be a good thing to have.

So I have some teenies growing from seed and more seed stuck in pots. Is this worth while? Or should I grind my teeth and wait until I can afford the sixty odd bucks to buy a named cultivar and have it shipped (the shipping is the bear.

Ow!) If that is what I must do, who's the best? Or do you all know anyone who makes smaller ones that are easier to sh

eah grow heaps !It takes up to 10 years to get fruit, maybe 3 or 4 years less for you since it's pretty much tropcial there except for the little Winter, it can take 6 years to get fruit from a grafted one so there isn't a huge difference.

Also I'm getting my first fruit from a grafted white sapote this year and it's really taking it's toll on the tree, it has only grown like a 10th of what it normally does in a year so you can see that they really fo need more years of growth to be happy with fruit just as nature intended.

I think Tom A once said that 75 percent of seedlings are worth eating and 25 percent are no good with 25 percent of the 75 being really good.

is that right Tom?. Also seedling white sapotes grow MUCH faster and taller than the grafted ones there's a bigger difference between seedlings/grafted performance than on any other plant I grow The above followup was added by Jason on April 07, 2005 at 4:19 pm PST.

Growing White Sapotes Drasaid,I really hate to be contentious, but I'm not sure that I'm entirely in agreement with Jason. My understanding is that seedlings (of most edible fruit trees, and certainly white sapotes) can potentially take quite a bit of time before bearing any fruit.

From what I understand of white sapotes, a seedling might bear in less than 10 years -- but it could take that long, or even longer, or it might never bear. It just depends (mostly) on the genetics of the particular seedling. Most grafted plants, including grafted sapotes, should bear fruit much sooner. How long a grafted tree will take to fruit depends not only on the genetics of the stock plant, but also on the genetics of the scionwood that is grafted onto the stock.

Some cultivars are much more precocious (faster bearing) than others. Tom A., the resident white sapote expert on this board (and also for the California Rare Fruit Growers group), once told me of a seedling that he had grafted to ""Vernon"", a particularly precocious cultivar. That particular grafted tree grew very vigorously, and the plant flowered and produced fruit within about a year after it had been grafted.

This may have been extremely lucky case, but it does show that some grafted sapotes can bear very quickly indeed. And I'm not sure that the chances of a seedling producing good fruit are as high as Jason indicates. A ""good-tasting fruit"" rate of 75% among white sapote seedlings sounds awfully high to me, but I may be wrong.

My impression was that seedling white sapotes have a much higher chance of producing awful tasting fruit (unlike, say, cherimoyas, which supposedly almost always produce good-tasting fruit from seed). If you have limited space, I'd say go with a grafted plant or plants. (Playing around with seedlings is great if you have vast amounts of space to work with; it's probably a fine strategy for Jason, who seems to have a property the size of Rhode Island.

)Grow your seedlings out a bit, and plan on grafting them yourself a bit later. If your grafting skills are scant, you'll have time to build them up while your plants mature a bit.

White sapotes are relatively easy to graft when the plants are flushing new growth. If you come back to this board and ask for scionwood, I'm sure that there will be plenty of people willing to send you a stick or two. The only cultivar I can send wood of any time soon is ""Mc Dill"", but I've got plenty of it! Others will have different cultivars to offer.

And if you decide that you really want to buy a grafted plant right away, I'd suggest that you contact Roger Meyer. You can find his e-mail address on the www.crfg.org web-site, under ""member nurseries"". He's very reliable and carries plants at reasonable prices.

He's based in Southern California, and I'm not sure what his shipping rates to New Orleans would be -- but he's an honest fellow, and I'm sure that he wouldn't charge exorbitant rates. Ben Poirier is another nurseryman listed on the CRFG page who might be a good person to contact; I've never ordered anything from him, but he also has a great reputation.

If you hunt around, you should be able to find a plant for a lot less than $60. The above followup was added by Ashok on April 08, 2005 at 0:54 am PST.

Fair enough I also have a Vernon tree, that's been in the ground only two years and looks like it could hold some fruit any time soon but it's the exception to the rule, I also have other grafted varieties that have not even flowered after 4 years, I have a friend whos seedling has started to flower after about 8 years, but it's still not strong enough for fruit.

But I really honestly believe that in the long term say 12 years a seedling of just about anything will have over taken a grafted tree in life long total fruit production.

If I continue to let my Pike tree fruit for the next 6 years (but I wont) untill it's 12 years old it would be lucky to be 20 feet tall now that the fruit is slowing it down so much. I have a seedling that is practially 20 feet tall allready at 5 years of age, by the time it's at fruiting age it will be large enough to easily hold 100's of fruit each year.

That's why I like to have some seedlings, I also don't think there has been any proper selection of sapotes and that most of the grafted varieties just happened with people finding a seedling and saying oh that tastes nice it must be a rare thing I better name that one, when probably it's nothing rare at all, no such thing as a grafted white sapote in Mexico after all and all the old people that know about them still think they taste great, if half of them tasted bad that couldn't be the case.

If you only have space for one tree and want to see what a sapote tastes like in a hurry buy a grafted one, buy a Vernon: ).

I'm still amazed by the plant prices in the states, standard price for a grafted sapote here is less than $20, I think they are very much undervalued but the general clueless population wont pay more than that for a silly fruit tree : )The above followup was added by Jason on April 08, 2005 at 6:56 am PST. More Sapotes Jason,Your theory on ""total lifetime fruit production"" in white sapotes is probably pretty sound. Seedling trees will get much larger than grafted plants, and so will ultimately bear more fruit (if they bear at all, of course). But, from what you've said, you *want* to have giant forest-tree sized specimen plants. Most gardeners in urban and suburban settings will not have the space for such massive trees.

I've never even been to Mexico, so I can't argue much with you on practices there! However, the impression I've gotten is that there are loads and loads of seedling fruit trees growing all over the place in certain regions.

There are probably higher concentrations of them in areas where humans live (e.g., around villages) because people drop seeds there.

From what I've read -- and, again, I concede that I have no first-hand experience here -- villagers would just get to know which trees have good fruit, and which have bad fruit. With so many seedlings around the place, it probably doesn't matter much if many or most do not produce good fruit -- some will. In the case of the mamey sapote (Pouteria sapota) and the sapodilla (Manilkara sapota), both widespread forest-canopy trees in warm, humid regions, my impression was that perhaps most of the plants out there will not produce fruit of good quality.

Cherimoyas may be an exception to this rule, with most seedlings producing pretty good fruit. Anyway, I've never been there, you have -- so shoot me down if I'm wrong!On sapote cultivars: yes, as far as I understand it, all the named cultivars are just seedlings that someone or other decided were particularly good -- there's been no breeding or systematic selection.

The fruit could probably be improved a lot if subjected to controlled breeding and selection. The above followup was added by Ashok on April 08, 2005 at 12:46 am PST.

Mamey Ashok, I saw giant mamey trees growing wild in the bush and some had smaller round fruit and some had the more egg shaped larger fruit, they all taste like mamey though.

I saw a few sapodilla trees but none growing in the bush, just around Oaxaca city (saw a 2 or three giant Cherimoya's in the same abandoned block of land) anyway I don't think you can get a bad tasting sapodilla I ate lots of them all over Mexico and they are all good : ).

It's hard with Cherimoyas because just about anything Annona non guanabana/soursop is called a Cherimoya but I realised later on that unless I was right up high in the mountains in central Mexico they weren't cherimoyas but other Annona's native to Mexico, they even have native obscure ones in the tropics down near Tampico.

In South Mexico where there are wild manilla mangos, mamey, sapodilla and papayas their ""cherimoyas"" are the favorite fruit but I wasn't there in Winter so I couldn't taste one, but they were not actually cherimoyas, just little trees with much smaller leaves, I did have it figured out what they were at one stage but I've fogetten now.

You can get bad tasting Cherimoyas, because I had a couple of really dodgy ones in Mexico, but I don't think it would be possible get one from a good tasting parent.

White sapotes for me were by far the hardest fruit tree to find in all Mexico, very very illusive I went to all the places people told me they were at and the only trees I saw in my 6 months of looking were a few small immature ones in a park, a few large old trees in cemetarys and one with very orange fruit in a backyard, one as a street tree outside one of Puebla's hospitals (near the ""hippy"" market) and another orange fruited one just on the side of the road somewhere on the outskirts of the city.

One thing I still don't understand is why did the white sapote trees I saw in Mexico have such dark almost black bark with the normal white spots, and why do none of my trees have dark bark like that, does it just come with age? or was I looking at a slightly different species? this I don't understand. There must be a town near Puebla with a huge natural stand of sapotes because they brang enough sapote leaves in one night to the city to make like a carpet to put some special bread on (to flavour it??

), they had tons of sapote leaves, never did find out where exactly those people came from but it would have been down the mountain a little and within a couple hours drive The above followup was added by Jason on April 09, 2005 at 6:21 am PST.hmm I lost a large section of that post above to the gods of the cloudforest?

oh well it's too late to remember all that again :)The above followup was added by Jason on April 09, 2005 at 6:24 am PST.eh? Now I see all my original post :)The above followup was added by Jason on April 09, 2005 at 6:24 am PST. Mexican Fruit Trees Jason,That's all very, very interesting. It sounds like some wild mamey trees do have less desirable fruit (much smaller than cultivated forms), even if the taste is the same.

The above followup was added by Ashok on April 09, 2005 at 1:55 pm PST.yeah Ashook some are about 6-7?cm in diameter, much smaller than the egg shaped ones The above followup was added by Jason on April 09, 2005 at 9:18 pm PST.seedlings, precocity,etcseems like all good info above; here's a little more.

I don't think anyone has deliberately bred white sapotes, anywhere. There's been a bit of selection, including from large plantings. I think the biggest planting ever done is in Africa-- I forget how many trees, but it might be a thousand.

Academics in Japan at one point planned to make some crosses, but I think they never did. I think the Israeli academic s have also not done any crossing, although they made two big plantings. From seed, sapotes are far more variable than peaches or cherimoyas (not surprising, given the lack of breeding).

What others wiser than I have said is that roughly 25% of seedlings will be quite poor in flavor or other attributes (eg, very bitter, tiny fruits maybe 1"" when ripe, etc.) 25% will not fruit ever-- they may have some flower defects, only male flowers, etc). About 50% will produce fruit that an average person (not a sapote enthusiast) would enjoy or find palatable.

So that's not too bad odds. My standard advice is to plant a seedling, graft it to one or more cultivars of your choice, but leave at least one branch of the seedling to see what you get.

If it's a dud ultimately, graft it over. If it's great, distribute it. How long sapotes take to bear from a grafted plant can vary dramatically, depending on how happy/unhappy your plant is, but also the variety. Precocity varying by variety is not something I see much of in most fruiting species (typically you graft mature wood and it fruits pretty rapidly-- how rapidly usually depends on the species, not the variety within the species.)

But the variety grafted has a BIG effect with Casimiroa on when it fruits. Vernon is fast. I've also got fruit less than a year from grafting on Nettie, and Cuccio is also quick.

Mc Dill can be slow--I think it was 6 years for me til first fruit for a very healthy, happy tree in the ground, 10 yrs for someone in So Cal. Suebelle can also be quite slow (eg, over 10 years for someone in Walnut Creek/Nor Cal), but can also fruit quite a bit quicker.

Part is just because it is not a vigorous grower, but there's more to it than that. The above followup was added by Tom A. on April 09, 2005 at 9:32 pm PST.

Tom A, fruiting years on grafted sapotes Tom my Pike tree flowered and set small fruit fro many years before finally setting seeded fruit this year, I'm not sure it it was just a matter of time of if it was because My ortega planted right next to the Pike flowered a little this year and also that bees finally found some interest in the Pike this year (because it was larger and had more flowers than before), can a solo Pike set seeded fruit?

or only with a pollinator? The above followup was added by Jason on April 10, 2005 at 5:13 am PST. I'm not surebut I bet you can figure it out. Take a look at the flowers-- are they perfect, or female only?

Are they self-fertile-- you can test this by covering with a paper bag and seeing what happens after you use a brush on a given flower. All the Pike trees I've seen have lots of other sapotes around. Usually, when a sapote starts to flower, it is mature enough to fruit. The big delay is in waiting for them to flower. I just put a plant in the ground today that's grafted to Nettie and Lemon Gold (plus a branch of the seedling).

Probably fruit in 2 years would be my guess. The above followup was added by Tom A. on April 10, 2005 at 9:29 pm PST. Tom, Pike's pollen Tom, I have not seen pollen on the Pike flowers, for my money they are female only flowers. Ortega makes tons of pollen and Vernon seems to make some, but not as much as Ortega. I've noticed the flower shapes different on the trees that make pollen.

My Vista has made a couple of flowers and I think that was almost exactly the same as Pike. None of my other sapotes have ever flowered, oh!

well Dade has but I wasn't looking at it too much (I'd guess it's female only though because my friends flowers alot but has never set fruit). The interesting thing about all this is that I have about 40? seeded fruit on my Pike tree and the Ortega is about 6 meters away and only made maybe 15 flowers in total last Spring The above followup was added by Jason on April 10, 2005 at 10:16 pm PST. "

. Selecting fruit T here are two varieties of mamey sapote that most commonly grow in Florida. The larger, pointed, football shaped Magan a with its dark, salmon colored flesh, and the smaller, round, Pantin, or Key West with its flesh colored a brighter salmon, and a bit sweeter flavor.

Mamey Sapote Pouteria sapota Photo Credit: Ian Maguire In the cuisine of Mexico, Central Americ a and the West Indies, there is probably no other fruit that is so l oved as is the mamey sapote! Its creamy texture and s weet almond, car a mel flavor have been treasured for centuries in this part of the world, and only recently isbeing enjoyed in other areas su ch as Australia, Israel, and the Philippines.

Once you have tasted the crea my mamey, you too will come to love this excellent fruit. Here are a few tips to help you choose and care for your mamey

Both mamey varieties have a brown, scruffy outer peel, and an inside flesh of excellent quality and flavor.

Mameys must be mature when they are picked from the tree, but not ripe. A fruit is mature when it has reached its full size and shape, but the starches inside the fruit have not yet converted to sugar. As those starches change into sugars, usually over a few days of sitting on the kitchen counter, the fruit will gradually soften and emit a pleasant aroma.

To tell if your mamey is mature, gently scratch the surface of the fruit with your nail near both ends of the fruit. If the color of the flesh is an orange-red at both ends, then the fruit has matured on the tree and will ripen on your counter.

Mamey, known sometimes as mamey sapote or just sapote, is a type of tropical fruit native to the Caribbean and Central America. It is cultivated in tropical regions in the Americas including Southern Florida, and is very popular among many Caribbean and Central American peoples.

What is a Mamey?

The firm, juicy flesh is usually eaten fresh, and appears in drinks, desserts, or on its own. In tropical regions, the fruit is readily available in fresh form at many marketplaces, and can sometimes also be picked wild. The fruit is known to have a sweet, pleasant taste, the description of which ranges from vanilla to pumpkin. Characteristics

The fruit of the mamey is pink, and roughly oblong to circular in size. Large specimens can measure around 10 inches (25 centimeters) in length. The seed is toxic, and found in the center of the fruit; toxic extracts from the sapote seed are used in a variety of applications, including as an insecticide.

The outside of a mamey is leathery, and it should yield slightly when it is ripe. When peeled back, the rind will reveal intensely pink, slightly soft flesh, indicating that it is ready to be eaten.

Ad Where to Find It Like many fruits, mamey grows on trees, most of which grow an average of 40 to 75 feet (about 12 to 23 meters) in height if allowed to grow undisturbed.

The trees grow best in tropical regions, particularly Central America and the Caribbean. Generally, the trees are cultivated through cuttings, ensuring that the traits of parent trees are passed on to the offspring. However, sapote can also grow from seed, leading to large amounts of trees growing wild in the tropics.

In some tropical regions, the roadside is littered with mamey trees, thanks to consumers who discard the seeds after they have eaten the flesh of the fruit. It can be difficult to find mamey fruit outside of the tropics. If living outside a tropical region where the fruit is for sale, it is best to look for evenly colored specimens with no areas of extreme softness.

The stems should be clipped short to the fruit, and if possible, ask to cut the fruit open to see the flesh inside; it should be very pink and somewhat soft. A high quality sapote will be creamy and sweet, while lesser versions will be either overwhelmingly sweet or intensely bitter.

How it's Eaten In many areas, sapote is eaten fresh right out of the rind; the seed, however, should not usually be consumed due to its toxicity. The flavor is somewhat difficult to describe, but it has been compared to pumpkins, chocolate, sweet potato, and vanilla.

Popular eating methods include squeezing lemon or lime juice over slices of the fresh fruit, or it can be mixed with other fruits. It is also blended for use in drinks and desserts; mamey ice cream, in particular, is a uniquely flavored delicacy in the tropics. Mammea Americana

Another possibility for the definition of a mamey is a different type of fruit known as Mammea American, or simply mamey. This fruit differs as it is generally larger, more round, and found on taller trees than the sapote version of the fruit.

What is a Mamey?

What is a Mamey Tree? Growing mamey fruit trees are indigenous to areas of the Caribbean, West Indies, Central America and Northern South America. Mamey tree planting for the purposes of cultivation does occur, but is rare. The tree is more commonly found in garden landscapes.

What Is A Mamey Tree: Mammee Apple Fruit Info And Cultivation

What Is A Mamey Tree: Mammee Apple Fruit Info And Cultivation Printer Friendly Version Image by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org By Amy Grant I’ve never heard of it and I’ve never seen it, but mammee apple has its place amongst other tropical fruit trees.

Unsung in North America, the question is, “What is a mamey tree?” Keep reading to learn more.

It is commonly cultivated in the Bahamas and the Greater and Lesser Antilles where the climate is ideal. It can be found growing naturally along the roads of St. Croix. Additional mammee apple fruit info describes it as a round, brown fruit about 4-8 inches across. Intensely aromatic, the flesh is deep orange and similar in flavor to an apricot or raspberry. The fruit is hard until completely ripened, at which time it softens.

The skin is leathery with a smattering of small warty lesions under which is a thin whitish membrane – this must be scuffed off the fruit prior to eating; it’s pretty bitter. Small fruit has a solitary fruit while larger mamey fruits have two, three or four seeds, all of which can leave a permanent stain.

The tree itself resembles a magnolia and attains a medium to large size of up to 75 feet. It has dense, evergreen, foliage with dark green elliptic leaves up to 8 inches long by 4 inches wide.

The mamey tree bears four to six, fragrant white petal blooms with orange stamens borne on short stalks. The flowers may be hermaphrodite, male or female, on the same or different trees and bloom during and after fruiting. Additional Mammee Apple Fruit Tree Info Mamey trees ( Mammea americana) are also referred to as Mammee, Mamey de Santo Domingo, Abricote, and Abricot d’Amerique.

It is a member of the family Guttiferae and related to the mangosteen. It is sometimes confused with the sapote or mamey colorado, simply called mamey in Cuba and with the African mamey, M. Africana.

Most commonly mamey tree planting may be seen as a windbreak or ornamental shade tree in Costa Rica, El Salvador and Guatemala. It is sporadically cultivated in Columbia, Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam, French Guiana, Ecuador and northern Brazil. It was most probably brought to Florida from the Bahamas, but the USDA has it recorded that seeds were received from Ecuador in 1919.

Specimens of the mamey tree are few and far between, with most found in Florida where they are better able to survive, although highly susceptible to prolonged cool or cold temps. The flesh of the mammee apple fruit is used fresh in salads or boiled or cooked usually with sugar, cream or wine. It is used in ice cream, sherbet, drinks, preserves, and many cakes, pies and tarts. Planting and Care of Mammee Apples If you are interested in planting your own mamey tree, be advised that the plant requires a tropical to near tropical climate.

Really, only Florida or Hawaii qualify in the United States and even there, a freeze will kill the tree. A greenhouse is an ideal place to grow a mammee apple, but keep in mind, the tree can grow to quite a significant height.

Propagate by seeds which will take two months to germinate, in almost any type of soil; the mamey is not too particular. Cuttings or grafting can be performed as well. Water the seedling regularly and place in a full sun exposure.

Provided you have the proper temperature requirements, the mamey tree is an easy tree to grow and is resistant to most diseases and pests.

Trees will bear fruit in six to 10 years. Harvesting varies according to growing location. For instance, fruit begins ripening in April in Barbados, while in the Bahamas the season lasts from May through July. And in areas of the opposite hemisphere, like New Zealand, this may take place during October on into December.

In some locations, like Puerto Rico and Central Columbia, the trees may even produce two crops per year. The fruit is ripe when a yellowing of the skin appears or when lightly scratched, the usual green has been replaced by a light yellow.

At this point, clip the fruit from the tree leaving a small bit of stem attached. Print This Article This article was last updated on 03/06/17Did you find this helpful? Share it with your friends!Additional Help & Information Didn't find the answer to your question? Ask one of our friendly gardening experts. Do you know anything about gardening? Help answer someone's gardening question. Read more articles about Mamey Fruit. Search for more information Use the search box below to find more gardening information on Gardening Know How:

The fruit of the mamey is pink, and roughly oblong to circular in size. Large specimens can measure around 10 inches (25 centimeters) in length. The seed is toxic, and found in the center of the fruit; toxic extracts from the sapote seed are used in a variety of applications, including as an insecticide.

What is a Mamey?

Mamey, known sometimes as mamey sapote or just sapote, is a type of tropical fruit native to the Caribbean and Central America. It is cultivated in tropical regions in the Americas including Southern Florida, and is very popular among many Caribbean and Central American peoples.

The firm, juicy flesh is usually eaten fresh, and appears in drinks, desserts, or on its own. In tropical regions, the fruit is readily available in fresh form at many marketplaces, and can sometimes also be picked wild. The fruit is known to have a sweet, pleasant taste, the description of which ranges from vanilla to pumpkin. Characteristics

The outside of a mamey is leathery, and it should yield slightly when it is ripe. When peeled back, the rind will reveal intensely pink, slightly soft flesh, indicating that it is ready to be eaten.

Ad Where to Find It Like many fruits, mamey grows on trees, most of which grow an average of 40 to 75 feet (about 12 to 23 meters) in height if allowed to grow undisturbed.

The trees grow best in tropical regions, particularly Central America and the Caribbean. Generally, the trees are cultivated through cuttings, ensuring that the traits of parent trees are passed on to the offspring. However, sapote can also grow from seed, leading to large amounts of trees growing wild in the tropics.

The stems should be clipped short to the fruit, and if possible, ask to cut the fruit open to see the flesh inside; it should be very pink and somewhat soft. A high quality sapote will be creamy and sweet, while lesser versions will be either overwhelmingly sweet or intensely bitter.

How it's Eaten In many areas, sapote is eaten fresh right out of the rind; the seed, however, should not usually be consumed due to its toxicity. The flavor is somewhat difficult to describe, but it has been compared to pumpkins, chocolate, sweet potato, and vanilla.

Popular eating methods include squeezing lemon or lime juice over slices of the fresh fruit, or it can be mixed with other fruits. It is also blended for use in drinks and desserts; mamey ice cream, in particular, is a uniquely flavored delicacy in the tropics. Mammea Americana

Another possibility for the definition of a mamey is a different type of fruit known as Mammea American, or simply mamey. This fruit differs as it is generally larger, more round, and found on taller trees than the sapote version of the fruit.

⛅December 18, 2016This is an unofficial South Florida tropical fruit guide! Since some fruits ripen multiple times of the year, it is hard to be precise. You can always count on bananas every month of the year, but they do slow down a bit in the winter. We almost always have mamey sapote since the magana variety is ready very shortly after the Key West variety ends.

Tropical Fruit Season Guide âï¸

Tropical Fruit Season Guide

JANUARY - bananas, black sapote, egg fruit, mamey, jaboticaba, papaya, sapodilla, turmeric FEBRUARY - bananas, black sapote, eggfruit, gambooge, mamey, jaboticaba, papaya, sapodilla, turmeric MARCH - bananas, gambooge, mamey, papaya, sapodilla, star apple, turmeric APRIL - bananas, jackfruit, mamey, papaya, pineapple, sapodilla, star apple, turmeric MAY - bananas, jackfruit, mamey, pineapple, sapodilla, turmeric JUNE - bananas, dragonfruit, jackfruit, lychee, mamey, mango, mountain soursop, papaya, passionfruit, pineapple, sapodilla, soursop, turmeric JULY - ackee, avocado, bananas, dragonfruit, jackfruit, longan, lychee, mamey, mango, pineapple, soursop AUGUST - ackee, bananas, dragonfruit, jackfruit, longan, mamey, mango, soursop SEPTEMBER - bananas, dragonfruit, longan, mamey, mango, soursop OCTOBER - bananas, charichuelo, coffee fruit, dragonfruit, june plum, longan, noni, mamey, passionfruit, rambutan, strawberry tree berry, tropical persimmons NOVEMBER - atemoya, avocado, bananas, black sapote, cactus fruit, coffee fruit, dragonfruit, mamey, noni, passionfruit, rambutan, starfruit, sugar apple, tropical persimmons DECEMBER - avocado, bananas, black sapote, egg fruit, mamey, papaya, passionfruit, rambutan, sapodilla, sugar apple, starfruit, turmeric Share 0 Tweet Pin it 0 Fancy +1← Older Post Newer Post →

Mexican animals are an incredibly diverse mix of creatures, from wolves, jaguars and pumas to axolotl, iguanas and the famous Monarch butterflies. Marine animals in Mexico are also varied with turtles, sharks, swordfish and whales all inhabiting the shores. The plant life is equally diverse with over 30,000 flowering plant found throughout the country from orchids to the famous Cacao trees. There are some truly unique and fascinating plant species found in Mexico, including 20m tall Cacti and Boojum Trees. There is also an abundant variety of fruit in Mexico, with some particularly intriguing native species such as Mamey Sapote and Canistel.

Mexican Wildlife

Discover the Mexican wildlife, that is incredibly diverse and has some truly unique species in the world. Enjoy its protected areas and natural parks. Mexico encompasses such a vast area of land that it is not surprising that it is home to such a wide variety of flora and fauna. Inhabiting areas from pine forests and tropical ecosystems, to deserts and an enormous coral atoll, Mexican wildlife is incredibly diverse and has some truly unique species.

Unfortunately, due to an increase in deforestation, pollution and in certain cases overhunting, there is an ever growing list of Mexican protected species. Many of these animals are endemic to Mexico, so the government´s continued conservational fight and maintenance of Mexico's natural parks is key in ensuring that native species do not die out.

Some of the animals that are most endangered include the Vaquita, the smallest marine mammal found only in the Gulf of California; the Totoaba a fish also native to the Gulf of California that was once abundant but has suffered greatly from over fishing.

Land mammals that are critically endangered also include the Mexican prairie dog, the San Quintin Kangaroo Rat, the Volcano Rabbit and the Oaxacan Pocket Gopher to name a few.© 1996 - 2017 don Quijote Salamanca S. L. All rights reserved. Privacy policy

The mamey sapote grows into a handsome, open tree with a thick central trunk and a few large limbs. The fruit is a large, shaped like a football, varying in length from 6-9 inches depending of the cultivar. The skin is thick and woody with a russet brown scruffy surface. The pulp of a mature fruit is salmon pink to red, soft and smooth in texture. The flavor is a sweet, almond like, unique flavor. The fruit will weigh from 1 to 6 pounds. The mamey sapote is usually eaten fresh by hand or to make milkshakes or ice cream. It is also excellent for use in jellies, pastes and conserves.

Mamey Sapote ( Pouteria sapota)

Mamey Sapote ( Pouteria sapota)Mamey sapote ( Pouteria sapota) is native to the seasonally dry forests of Mexico and Central America. It was widely distributed in Central America before Columbus and introduced to the Caribbean, South America, and Asia.

Learn more about Growing Mamey sapote in South Florida Click Here .

Light: The white sapote grows in tropical regions, but it tends to grow at higher elevations. Thus, it likes bright sunlight but does not require strong direct sunlight to thrive. Water: Average water needs, but never let it sit in standing water. Err on the side of arid.

Casimiroa-Growing White Sapote

"White sapote is a pretty little tree with edible fruit. Photo © Starr Environmental/Flickr The white sapote belongs to the genus Casimoroa and is one of the several plants from different families to bear the common name ""sapote."" Others include the mamey sapote (from the Pouteria) genus and the black sapote (from the Diospyros genus).

What unites these plants, which can even be from different families, is the edible fruit, which is popular in tropical areas. The white sapote bears a medium-sized, round fruit with a sweet and somewhat delicate white flesh.

Aside from the white sapote (C. edulis), there are about five other species in this genus. Typical specimens from the genus grow into small trees or large shrubs and are evergreen in tropical regions. They can be grown in large containers indoors, although as with all tropical fruit, bringing a specimen to fruit will be a challenge.

Nevertheless, if you happen to get a white sapote fruit, it can still be fun to dry and sprout the seed and grow it as an ornamental. They are beautiful little trees with contorted and rough trunks and glossy leaves on drooping branches.

It can withstand colder temperatures (even down to freezing) and cold drafts and dislikes intense heat and humidity. Growing Conditions for White Sapote White Sapote is not particularly difficult to grow, if you following these parameters:

Soil: Any good, fast-draining potting soil will likely do. Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid citrus fertilizer throughout the growing season. Propagation The most likely way you'll run into a white sapote is a fruit, so you'll be propagating from seed. To sprout a sapote seed, first, let the fresh seed dry and plant in a container of moist soil. They can also be propagated by air layering, which is commonly done by commercial growers.

The do not root well from cuttings, so it's best to avoid this technique if possible. Repotting White sapote is not especially fast growing and should only need repotting every other year or so as juveniles.

In general, they dislike repotting, so larger specimens should be left in their tubs and pruned to an appropriate size. Varieties of White Sapote The white sapote is the most common of the Casimiroa species. It grows as a wild plant in central Mexico and Central America, as well as a limited commercial plant in Florida and an ornamental plant in California.

It is also used to provide shade on coffee plantations in Central America. Within the species, there are many cultivars that have been bred for desirable fruit qualities, including lack of seeds, flavor or hardiness of the fruit, which is notoriously fragile and easily destroyed.

Because of extensive hybridization, many sapotes do not propagate well from seed. Grower's Tips As plants go, these are not particularly tough to grow, but if you are fortunate enough to get fruit, there are some precautions you should observe. Never tug the fruit off of the tree, as this will encourage rapid rot of the fruit. Instead, snip the fruit off the tree with a small piece of branch still attached. This nub will wither and drop off, signaling that the fruit is ready to eat. In general, the fruits are extremely fragile and should be harvested while still green.

White sapote is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option. "