how many coats of watco butcher block finish on butcher block

All the boards were ultimately sanded with 220 and finished with 2 coats of WATCO butcherblock oil and finish on all surfaces. I used one of the boards, gave it a light wash, rinsed it and dried it. After this the top of the board looks dull and the the top is now rough to the touch.

Cutting Board Finish Revisited

Cutting Board Finish Revisited Article - December 2, 2007Seems like cutting boards are on everyone’s minds these days. Probably because we are all making holiday gifts. Either way, this is the time of year you can expect almost one forum post a day asking a question about cutting board finishes or “food safe” finishes. And the responses to these posts are nearly always the same: Person 1- The best finish for a butcher block is mineral oil. Person 2- NEVER use varnish or salad bowl finish on a cutting board! What are you, stupid?!?! Person 3- Mineral oil and wax are the best! Person 4- This person usually provides a bunch of extra information that you didn’t ask for. Ok so I am generalizing here for fun, but you get the picture. I have noticed as well that many of the people posing these questions may be doing so because of my advice from Episode 7- A Cut Above. To sum up, I said that my favorite finish for end grain butcher blocks is salad bowl finish (aka varnish). But remember my caveat. I said we are NOT trying to build a film. And that’s exactly what the folks in the forums are trying to say. If you build a film, the film will then be cut by a knife. The cut will allow moisture to seep under the finish and become a wonderful home for all kinds of bacteria. I can’t disagree there. But with my method, you never actually build an appreciable film. I recommend diluting the finish sufficiently so that it immediately gets absorbed into the wood’s wide open pores. Think of it like a vertical bunch of straws that you are filling up with finish. Within a minute or two, you will notice that finish is actually seeping out of the bottom of the board. This is exactly what we want. At this point, I usually set board on its side and allow it to dry overnight. I do this 3-4 times with a light sanding in between each session. By the final coat, you should start noticing that the finish doesn’t really absorb any more. You are now starting to develop a film. One last wipe with a clean cloth and call it DONE. So how does a board like this fare in the kitchen? There are two main concerns here: safety and maintenance. A butcher block treated this way will resist water all day long. In fact, on my boards, water tends to evaporate faster than it absorbs. Mineral oil boards will actually take on moisture much more readily. Adding wax to your mineral oil can certainly help in this area if thats the route you want to go. Now the fact that it is so water resistant is a major plus in terms of sanitation. Remember that the bacteria like the moisture. So the less moisture in the board, the better. So how about knife marks? Well like with any board, knife marks will happen. If they don’t, you must not be using your board properly. So what happens to my boards? They get knicked up. They get dulled a little more in the middle where the most action occurs. But after about 18 straight months of usage, my cutting board looks pretty darn good. Check out the pics below. Now if there were a thick film on that board and that film were to crack, the moisture would certainly seep in and create problems. In fact after 18 months of that type of abuse you would probably expect the finish to start flaking off or exhibit more physical damage than what you see. But when a knife produces a deep cut on my board, it just cuts into varnish-filled pores. There is nothing to flake off. Now let’s talk about maintenance. I haven’t done anything to that board other than a light soap and water scrub after each use, and an occasional white vinegar rub down. And I suspect that in another month or so, I will take the board back in the shop, give the top a nice thorough sanding, reapply a light coat or two of diluted varnish (monitoring how much it takes up), and the board will look brand new. What kind of maintenance does a mineral oil board require? Monthly, and possibly more frequently if used heavily. Maybe I’m just lazy but one of those maintenance schedules sounds a whole lot more fun than the other. I am by no means trying to discourage people from using mineral oil. After all, its the classic cutting board finish. Use whatever floats your boat. Personally, I have had great success with my method and will continue to use it. The feedback from other folks who have tried it has been great as well. I think its safer, easier, and looks better. Of course my results are not backed by scientific tests. If I still worked in a lab I might be able to test it properly. But I can’t, so all I can do is speculate and bring a little common sense to the table. Finishing is, and probably always will be, one of the most over-complicated and misunderstood areas of woodworking. I only wish there were more scientific resources out there so that issues like this can be resolved effectively without speculation. Until then, do your research and never count on my advice or anyone else’s as cold hard fact. Gather as much information as possible from your trusted resources and then add the final ingredient: YOUR experience, opinions, and common sense. Viva La Varnished Board!Fixing Gap in Joint My Opinion of Pocket Screws A Router Safety Reminder May 12, 2010French Polish Like a Pro DVDOctober 5, 2010When should I throw away sandpaper? March 24, 2008Campbellsville Handmade Cherry Furniture November 10, 2011Dust Collectors for Power Hand Tools? June 15, 2007Differences Between Titebond Glues August 4, 2010Article Archive236 comments on “ Cutting Board Finish Revisited ”Mac December 2, 2007 8:11 am I am glad my desk is not the only out their that is covered in junk. On a more serious note, great clarification Mark. I was sitting on the fence of what type of finish to use and was really confused on what was out their. Reply Don Hedger December 10, 2016 7:19 pm Bee’s wax is excellent for boards or food related wood products Reply Jim December 2, 2007 8:30 am Above you recommend diluting the finish “sufficiently”, could give an example of your “sufficiently” diluting finish (50% water or more)? Thanks for your help!Reply Knute April 24, 2009 8:02 pm I recently had my first experience with making cutting boards. After watching the guy on TV an how he made everything look so simple, I decided to make them for ALL family members for Christmas. I ended up making 25 of them. I used about 30 species of wood, including;ash maple, red oak, white oak, cedar, walnut, yellowheart, bubinga, purpleheart, zebrawood and a host of others I didn’t recognize. After multiple experiments with finishes, frustration set in. Mineral oil just didn’t impress me. Diluted varnish didn’t trip my trigger either. Then I tried something really crazy. I did several sandings starting with 100 grit, then 150, 220, 320, 800 and finally 1500. Before there was even a finish on them, the different woods took on a whole new attractive shine. I loved it. After that, all I did was put on three coats of the diluted varnish and waxed all the surfaces. They looked so terrific that everyone that got them didn’t want to use them for cutting boards (no health issues here). They were going to hang them on the wall or use them for a hotplate or centerpiece. One friend saw them and commissioned me to make one for her…@ $200.00. Another friend wants me to make a series of matching boards to hang on a two story wall, and yet another wants a table top made. Bottom line here is that the cutting board has been expanded into art. Thanks for the great reads…keep it up. Knute in Missouri Reply Dan November 29, 2015 3:44 am Awesomness, what a great idea. I think I will try your sanding technique, with diluted varnish. Thank you Reply Manraj Singh September 4, 2016 6:30 pm Wao. Great to read your experience about how you ended up making 25 :); I also plan to make my first board today, I bet I won’t reach 25 :) haha . And you guys are lucky to have such excellent quality and variety of wood. Over here in India we got few options and the best one is making one with the Teak wood and few other hardwood option’s. Thank you. Replynicole December 12, 2016 7:45 pm What type of wax did you use? These boards must still be beauties, even 7 years later.. Reply Loretta February 25, 2017 8:49 am I recently purchased a live edge board. Any suggesyions as to treatment on this board? Loretta in Texas Reply Lynda La Londe January 3, 2012 4:45 pm Please tell me how to dilute the varnish. I am going to use maple flooring, applied to 1/2″ plywood. I will need to put a finish and will use mineral oil if I have to but am liking your thought process with the varnish finish. Thank you. Replythewoodwhisperer January 3, 2012 5:05 pm I would dilute the varnish by about 75% if it is full-strength. Reply Kari March 25, 2012 4:00 pm Do you use water to dilute the salad bowl finish? My butcher block is a counter top so I can’t turn it over and let it breathe. Will this method still work?thewoodwhisperer March 25, 2012 4:10 pm Hi Kari. You do not want to dilute with water. Use mineral spirits, naptha, or paint thinner. And you can certainly finish only one side if that is all you have access to. It is nice to finish both sides when possible but you do what you can do. Kari March 25, 2012 4:56 pm Paint thinner? That’s a little scary for a food prep surface but after reading all your stuff I am going to trust you! :) Hope I don’t die! Just kidding.thewoodwhisperer March 25, 2012 6:24 pmhaha well if we’re talking about a “salad bowl finish” such as the one sold my General Finishes, you should read the MSDS. There’s already plenty of mineral spirits in that can. You’re just adding a little more. As with any of this stuff, do your research and make the decision that best suits you and your family. My advice is just one person’s opinion. Insert disclaimer here. :)John September 21, 2015 5:52 am I used Howard’s cutting board conditioner on my cutting boards and wondered how to get rid of the oily surface? I wiped it down and it’s been setting for a week now and still oily. Thanks. Reinhard Ludin March 7, 2018 5:54 pm Do you dilute with mineral spirits and if so what is ratio Thanks Reply Vic December 2, 2007 8:57 am Hey Marc, Thanks for mentioning me (Person 4). I thought all the superfluous information I like to give was going unnoticed. I was teasing Sylvia the other day. She’s knitting a really cool scarf from Alpaca. I told her ” While I don’t know how to knit, I can give you some excellent advice for that”. (Inside joke) Anyway, thanks for the information. It make good sense. Replythewoodwhisperer December 2, 2007 9:00 am You got it Jim. I usually aim for the ballpark of 50-60%. I would love to hear your knowledge on Alpacas Vic. :)Reply Lee December 2, 2007 9:32 am As a retired chef the cutting board thing is of some interest. 1 First it was replace all the wood in the kitchens (comm.) with stainless 2 Stainless proved not practical because it dulled knives after one cut 3 Then it was plastic cutting boards should be used hmmm 4 And finally it was proven wood was the safest because plastic (as well as stainless) leaves cuts where the disenfectant could not reach but the wood absorbed it killing the bacteria. This why it should not be sealed. 5 The point is a light coat of mineral oil and wiping with diluted household bleach is the best (NO bleach is not a toxin) mix about 1 part bleach to 20 parts water. Replythewoodwhisperer December 2, 2007 9:59 am This is the exact confusion I was talking about. You can find an equal number of studies done that “prove” plastic is the more sanitary kitchen item. It all becomes very confusing for the average person. I personally believe that whether you use wood, plastic, mineral oil, or varnish, a good cleaning and sanitation regimen should prevent food-borne illness. There is bacteria everywhere (especially in the kitchen). Getting rid of all of it is not realistic because it will never happen. But keeping it below the threshold that will cause food-borne illness is the goal. And just to clarify Lee, Bleach most certainly IS toxic. But small amounts in diluted solutions can be a safe and effective disinfectant. Reply CJ Compton September 25, 2010 12:10 pmmarc, what the chef above is talking about is the E. P. A.’s side of plastic verses wood. A while back the epa came out and said glass is the best but because of what it does to your knives it is impractical. They then said use plastic over wood. But recently (within the past year) they have changed there stance because of the reasoning he gave. They still say glass is the safest option but like me most people dont want to sharpen dayly Reply Robert November 23, 2016 5:27 pm Bleach is a biocide. LOLReply Kip December 2, 2007 11:36 am Bleach is not something I would want on anything I eat from. Unless It can be completly rinsed away. Even deluted it would build up with each application. Marc’s point that the wood absorbes the varnish so would it absorb chlorine bleach. My Question is , if the varnish is absorbed into the wood, how toxic is varnish? Reply Brian May 20, 2014 7:55 pm Even deluted it would build up with each application. I know I’m wandering into a very old thread, but this is totally, completely, 100% false. Bleach evaporates. It does not leave a residue nor would it build up over time. Reply SF95070 December 20, 2016 8:41 am Bleach is toxic, but it is destroyed by sun light. It is a bit nasty while in its liquid form and can ruin fabrics and discolor wood and even some plastics. It is a reliable biocide. The reason it is OK to use is that there is no residue and it won’t build up since it evaporates. It is bad to breath so use lots of ventilation. I prefer the strong vinegar, which is almost as good a biocide and doesn’t affect colors, but bleach solution is certainly a widely used option. Reply Steve December 2, 2007 3:50 pm Marc is 100% correct — bleach IS toxic and small amounts in diluted solutions are safe. Many municipal water treatment plants use chlorine (bleach) to disinfect our drinking water. It is toxic to tropical fish in your aquarium but will not harm us humans. Using a bleach solution as a disinfectant on cutting boards is perfectly safe. Reply Mike in St. Paul December 2, 2007 5:39 pm Marc –I just skimmed your post. So you are saying that mineral and wax are best, right? LOL! I couldn’t resist… Thanks for (yet another) great post. You always give us new methods to think about, but in the end you say the same message: your shop, your product, your choice. Well done. But mineral oil is best, right? :-PReplythewoodwhisperer December 2, 2007 7:15 pm Well folks, just one more reason not to eat Clorox Brand Ice Pops!Replycarl November 24, 2016 2:45 pmwhat about shellac? im sure you covered it and i missed it but please review , im curious Reply Marc Spagnuolo November 25, 2016 7:40 am Not a great option in my opinion. It quickly builds a film which is generally what you don’t want on a cutting board. Reply Brian M December 4, 2007 8:53 am I followed Marc’s advice and used diluted salad bowl finish. IMHO, if you keep the cutting board clean its just as safe as any other product in the kitchen (Copper, aluminum, teflon, glazed pots.. etc).besides… According to the World Health Organization I’m going to die of cancer because i worked graveyard shifts to put myself though college. I think salad bowl finish is the least of my worries. Reply Andrea Frick January 6, 2016 2:06 pm We’re all dying of cancer because the air is filled with too much carbon. IMHO. ;-)Reply Brad Nailor December 5, 2007 9:39 am Just about anything in large enough quantities is toxic. As for not wanting to eat anything that has touched something cleaned with bleach, then you better stop eating in restaurants, most use a dilute bleach solution to sanitize everthing in their kitchens!I personally prefer a diluted mineral oil for all my cutting boards, but I have used salad bowl finish, though not with Marcs diluted built up technique, on boards that were going to be decorative and not cut on. But Marcs sumation is correct.. It’s your project in your shop, do with it what YOU think is correct!Reply CJ Compton September 25, 2010 12:15 pmwhat do u dilute mineral oil with? Reply John C December 7, 2007 12:31 pm At my daughter’s preschool, they use a *very* diluted bleach/water spray to mist over the toys and stuff… Compared to the germ warfare of 4 year olds’ drippy noses and sneezes, the bleach seems not so bad….-John Reply Chris D December 8, 2007 12:27 am Othan than purple heart what are some other tight grain non-oily woods that can be used for a quality end grain cutting board? Replythewoodwhisperer December 8, 2007 9:58 am Hey Chris. There are a lot of opinions out there as to what makes an appropriate cutting board. And your options open up even more if you plan on using it for dry goods like bread. Here are some woods that I have seen in cutting boards: mahogany, walnut, yellowheart, birch, alder, maple, purpleheart, white oak, and bubinga. That’s all I have off the top of my head. As long as the wood isn’t real oily and doesn’t have wide open pores (woods like red oak and ash), you should be fine. So of course, be careful, do your research, and have fun!Reply Steve December 9, 2007 8:55 am Just a word about using bleach as a sanitizer: This quote was taken from an FDA brochure: “For extra protection, you can clean the board (cutting board) with a kitchen sanitizer, such as a solution of one teaspoon chlorine bleach to one quart water.” See for yourself: Go to http://www.fda.gov, seach for “foodsfe.pdf”. Look about 1/2 way down the brochure. This solution is about 1 part bleach to 200 parts water. Much more diluted that the 1:20 ratio recommended above. BTW Marc, love the site. Thanks and keep up the good work. Reply Spanky December 12, 2007 8:17 pm What type of varnish is recommended or does it matter? Thanks Replythewoodwhisperer December 12, 2007 9:21 pm Technically, it doesn’t matter. What do I use? General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Reply Johan December 16, 2007 10:59 pm Hey Marc, Nice job on the site. Keep up the good work here. Thanks for revisiting this topic. Shellac is food safe, right? Would it also (mixed w/ normal alcohol, not denatured alcohol) make a similar or better quality finish as the salad bowl varnish? Reply Johan December 18, 2007 10:54 pm Never mind, I just listened to your original podcast, and you mention why shellac won’t be a good alternative. Thanks. Reply Kent Follmer January 1, 2008 9:15 am Hi Folks and Happy New Year!I have spent a lot of time making and finishing end grain cutting boards during the past two months. I think I have read everything on the internet on the subject including the never ending debate between plastic v. wood boards. Here are my 2 cents: PLASTIC VS WOODOn the wood v plastic debate, the answer in my view is this: Both work for cutting boards, Wood has been around for centuries and plastic for about two decates. Plastic boards appeared to receive more general but uninformed acceptance by the public including state legislatures a few years back, which caused this controversy in the first place, but wood , in particular one made of end grain of a closed grain species, is far superior in every category including appearance. In the last ten years, more has been published by unbiased scientists from major universities that establishes that plastic CAN me less safe than wood, and the real issues is how the board is usedd, cleaned and maintained, not so much whether it is is plastic or wood; so it boils down to this: which do you like better? WOOD. After refinishing 4 of our old boards, edge and face grain boards (sanding and sealing with a variety of finishes), and making 5 end grain boards, I finally looked at my ladies’ old white plastic board in the kitchen; this was a favorite of hers because her mom said she should use this one for meat. Guess what: This plastic board was FURRY! u AM NOT KIDDING, IT HAD SMALL VERY FINE LITTLE PLASTIC FURRY FIBERS IN THE MIDDLE. Sure, you can throw it in the dishwasher but the damn thing was furry from knife marks, – yes there were knife marks all over it but the general surface where the cutting took place in the center of the board was furry to the touch, which I believe will harbor bacteria like the Taliban in the mountains; this plastic board was the worst, ugliest and most unsafe board in the kitchen. After showing this to my lady, she allowed me to throw it over the shoulder into a well placed trash can, just as Marc did in his podcast, episode 7A. I suppose I could have sanded this furry plastic thing, but it was not worth the sandpaper it would have wasted. We are not interested in plastic working nor is Marc a plastic whisperer. Plastic companies have made a ton of money in the last 50 years but trees grew on this land before man kind and I think that scores a point or two. Lets get real here, plastic sucks. for cutting boards. I am not into plastic boards and I am completely convinced that if you keep your wooden boards clean, you can cut chicken or anything else you want and need not worry about any health issues. Maintenance on them would require light sanding every few years at the most. Does it make sense to have one board for chicken only? not to me. just keep it clean. One for vegies and one for meat? sure, why not. I like making boards. THE FINISHMineral oil is good. It is cheap, does not last long, easy to apply. My vote here is use this on your standard run of the mill single species boards. You don’t get the luster but works well. Walnut oil. I like this more than mineral oil. It gets harder over time with light and air. It last longer than mineral oil. It might darken lighter woods. It is not unhealthy. Your plants don’t like walnut wood shavings and dont use the walnut wood chips as an ingrediant to your meat loaf, and you will be just fine; however, y ou don’t get the luster or shine as you do with a varnish. Salad Bowl finish is a real good option. Marc’s recipe of dilluting with thinner is an absolute MUST to avoid streaky oily and smearing finishes but with a 50% thinning, and several coats, you get a nice shine and this shows off the more exotic woods and your efforts better. It is a better seal than the options. Another good option is this: do nothing. once a year sand it. Sorry for rambling and for all those that read this, the most important thing is to enjoy this hobby of working with wood. Kent Reply Dave) January 6, 2008 4:46 pm For purists (and to defend Chef Lee) toxins are poisonous substances produced by the mteabolic processes of living organisms. Snake venom is a toxin. Chlorine is toxic, but it is not a toxin. Reply Steven March 3, 2008 12:31 pm ARRGGHHHHH!! !Marc – “At this point, I usually set board on its side and allow it to dry overnight.”** on its side**I did not see or hear this one detail in your original video. I left the board flat to dry!! I kept expecting the bleed through to stop – which never did using diluted finish. I had some success with using undiluted finish, so eventually I called it done. I gave this board to my wife for Christmas. She literally refused to cut on it for two weeks because it was “too pretty”. I finally convinced her to start using it, but it was very painful for her. :)This was my first project where I using using serious hardwoods and really trying to maintain tight tolerances. The cut, flip, cut steps magnify every flaw in woodworking process. I learned a LOT about working with hardwoods (plenty to go!) and more importantly details about the setup and use of my wood working equipment (table saw driving me nuts and my first use of power planer). This was a VERY valuable experience for me. Thank you, Marc!! !Reply Ben June 8, 2008 12:31 pm So if you turn it on its side overnight, how do you keep it from gluing itself to the surface it is resting on and messing up the edge of your board? Replythewoodwhisperer June 8, 2008 2:23 pmin most cases, I don’t coat the side that’s going to face down. I will catch it on the next coat. After 1-2 coats, you will be finishing with the board flat again so you can do all 4 sides evenly at that time. Hope that helps. Reply Mike October 17, 2008 2:55 pm Hi Marc,I’ve made three of your end-grain cutting boards now…they’re a big hit with all who see them. Everyone thinks I labored away days gluing up individual little blocks of wood…I don’t let one how easy it actually comes together!Sorry to dredge up an old topic, but I seem to be having a problem with the finish that no one has mentioned…. I went with your recommended Salad Bowl Finish thinned with Mineral Spirits. But after only a few light washings, it appears that the finish is completely gone! The surface is rough like the grain is raised. What did I do wrong? Should I have rubbed more in on the initial coat? I rubbed for about 3-4 minutes…it seems like it would have soaked up more. I never experienced the finish coming out the other side. Replythewoodwhisperer October 17, 2008 9:37 pm Glad the boards are working out for you!Now on to your dilemma. Keep in mind that the light coating of finish on top is actually meant to wear off. We don’t really want a heavy film on top of the board. Films lead to cracked finish and cracked finish leads to bacteria. Since the idea is to essentially fill the grain from the inside, the board should still be protected. Now if you notice that water absorbs into the wood, it might be a good idea to recoat the board again because it is apparently not totally sealed. But if it still repels water, then you are still in good shape. Now your description of the finishing process raises some questions. In most cases, the finish will go through to the other side. Did you keep applying the finish or did you just keep rubbing a small amount? I usually flood the surface and keep adding finish until it appears on the other side. But not all woods will allow the finish to pass through so readily. What woods did you use? Either way, you need to check to see how well the board is repelling water. Put a good sized drop on there and watch it over the course of a few minutes. If the drops absorbs within a minute or so, the board needs more work. Now here’s a little extra info for you. After about 5-6 months of using a new board, I like to take it back to the shop and resurface it. The initial use of the board causes some of the joints to swell and the surface feels a little rough (as you described). So by sanding the surface with 220 and reapplying a fresh coat of varnish, you completely renew the surface. And since the board is fully seasoned, it will stay smoother and the joints will be much less obvious at that point. And they should stay that way too. Feel free to email me if you want to get deeper into these details. Reply Geof October 23, 2008 6:15 am Marc,I just discovered your site and am very impressed. I found you because I was looking for info on end grain cutting boards…………..presto, your podcast is perfect. I have purchased the hard maple and purple heart from my local wood purveyor and am ready to begin. Geof Reply John October 27, 2008 10:38 am I am glad to hear I am not the only one with the board getting “fuzzy fast” issue (Mike on October 17th, 2008 2:55 pm ). I am making a lot of these boards and have been testing them in my kitchen. The mineral oil ones do not repel water well enough for someone who washes the board and sets it aside – instant warpage – the warpage can be fixed but if the board is a gift, you just became a sucky woodworker in their eyes. Since most folks who use the board will not be as educated about its properties and care as those of us who make them, we need to keep this in mind when we finish the board. The Salad Bowl finish looks great but the surface of the board gets rough and ugly very quickly after some use. The board still repels moisture well and does not warp so I will probably put a 6 month refinish coupon in the gift to get past this issue and let folks know what to expect with a new board. I have not tried the wax yet but I expect that it will not seal the board as well as the salad bowl finish and will seal better than the oil only system. I suspect that I will end up finishing the boards with the salad bowl finish and then maintain mine with oil/wax and recommend the gift recipients use oil only as that is easier. All my boards will come with directions for their use and maintenance as they require a bit more brains than plastic. If you are not smart enough to own it after all this work and you still have problems, I will take you off my cool gift list and start sending you my recycled âReply Bob November 29, 2008 7:00 am When you said to dilute. What do you dilute with? Earlier someone asked and he said 50-60% water. Is that OK or should it be diluted with mineral spirits? Replythewoodwhisperer November 29, 2008 9:08 ammineral spirits or naptha will do just fine. Reply Gabriel September 7, 2012 6:54 pm I’m looking to finish wooden toys and I’ve been following the “food safe” (i.e. indirect food contact) finishes as a guide. Currently I’m using mineral oil mixed with with beeswax. One of the things I think turns people off finishes is the thinner that’s used. Can you describe what happens to the mineral spirits/naptha once it’s mixed with the finish and put on the wood? I’m assuming that the thinner evaporates and doesn’t remain in the wood but it would be nice to have confirmation on the process. Replythewoodwhisperer September 7, 2012 7:11 pm As I understand it, that’s exactly what happens. All that should be left behind is the resin. But please don’t take my word on this as an authority. There are different viewpoints and you will need to arrive at your own decision. I personally dont see this as an issue. But when making things for people outside my family, I err on the side of caution. Reply Lucky1406 November 29, 2008 2:15 pm Hey there, I had a quick question. I’ve made a number of your cutting boards, and I’ve been trying few finishes, and I wanted your advice about a problem that I seem to have. I’ve been finishing the bottom of the boards with the varnish/mineral spirits to keep it protected from water on the counter tops (I heard that the boards can mold if left in water on a counter top) But I wanted to finish the top in a Butcher Clock oil. I liked the look of this, with the protection of the Varnish for the bottom. The strange thing I noticed is that after I put on the varnish, I decided to go ahead a put a layer of Butcher block oil on top of it to see what it looked like. And I started to notice that where the grain of the wood was, It seemed to raise up with a slightly gummy substance. maybe the Butcher block oil was pulling some of the varnish up? I’m Not sure, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. I just sanded it down a little, and tried it again. But it did the same thing again. I’m not too worried about it because it’s the bottom of the board, but still. I’ll be sure to try these things out before I do anything to the top of one of my boards. Reply Bob December 2, 2008 12:35 pm If this is your favorite finish for end grain cutting boards, would it also be for edge grain? Replythewoodwhisperer December 2, 2008 12:44 pm Well, for face grain and edge grain cutting boards, I am usually a little more conservative in my approach. With most woods, you start building a film almost immediately. And remember, we don’t want a film on the surface. So I guess you could use this method, but you’ll have to toe the line between film/no film. But I would probably not even bother. I would just treat it with mineral oil/wax and go with tradition. Reply Shaun June 7, 2016 8:26 am So for face grain oil/wax is better? Would lemon oil be ok? It’s an offcut oak worktop to be used in the same kitchen. If the two surfaces are oiled and kept together would this leave a darker mark on the worktop? Thanks woody Reply The Gubain March 1, 2009 1:19 pm Mark, Love your stuff and the craic from the quacks is ok too. I grew up in a small town in the ould country. We had an outhouse,yeah!, and had to use old papers. Them were the days me old friend. Whow!! was about to break into a bars of he ould song there!! Now where was I,ok yes them old days. We played in muck and dirt, we ate berries off the bush, we ate all our own produce, drank milk from the cows, cured our own meat, washed outside in a basin full of cold water. My father shave out there too. Anyway enough of all the prettyy clean stuff. Good is good enough for me. I have wathched thinks change not all for the best. We are far too clean now. Just watch folks. Wipe off the door handle. Need I go on. No,No, lets just go back a little and live life the way we were ment to and not as dictated by money grabbing CO’s. Replyjohn April 30, 2009 8:11 am Im spraying some chairs 13, I,ve been using valspar pre cat @ a 40 sheen. Just found out we need a french polish look.don’t really want to rub them out, or have the time. I know it’s best not to inter mix name brands,but thier is’nt enough time to order a gloss pre cat from this vender. Do you think I could get by with a Sherwin Williams pre cat gloss product. Thanks for your help and first time at this web site. I’ve been using mineral oil on my cutting boards and don’t care for all the recoating involed. Can I sand and coat with the cut- salad boul finish? Seems the grain would be filled with mineral oil,just a thought! thanks again John South Carolina Replythewoodwhisperer April 30, 2009 8:43 am Hey John. That’s a hard one for me to answer. When you get into the pre-cat stuff, there is so much going on chemically that it really can be risky to mix brands like that. I’m not saying it wouldn’t work. Also if you already spraying the 40 sheen, topping it with gloss will give you a bit of a muddy weird look. It won’t exactly be like a French polish because you won’t be able to see clear down to the wood grain, even though the finish is polished. As for the cutting board, I usually recommend people let the mineral oil board go for a few months without a reapplication of oil. After numerous wash and dry cylces, you can usually give it a light sanding and start the varnishing process. If you sand the board and your sandpaper gets all gummed up, just wait longer. Replyj July 17, 2009 9:56 pmdont exotics contain toxins from pesticides used in other countries? Isnt purpleheart open grained? Replythewoodwhisperer July 18, 2009 8:51 am As far as pesticides, I doubt that is much concern. But with exotics, toxicity is definitely a concern. So with the exception of purpleheart, I don’t really use exotics in my cutting boards (although many people do). There just isn’t enough info out there to let us know how “food safe” these woods are. And in general I don’t consider purpleheart to be open grained. Reply John G July 27, 2009 1:57 pm I now have THE way to finish this awsome board. I cook a lot and use the board at least twice per day and maybe more. Start with the 50/50 mix that Marc describes. Once that is dry, sand the board down with 220 grit on your dual action sander. I then get out the old hotplate and make a mix of mineral oil and beeswax. Mix it so that when it is room temp, it is soft enough so you can put your finger through it (about the consistency of chapstick). I then heat up the mix and hot wax the board. I pour on the hot liquid and spread it around until it solidifies. After it cools, I scrape the excess back into the pan and buff it with a soft rag. This gives a finish smoother than a baby butt that lasts a month or so of daily use. It can be hit with mineral oil for another month or so and then repeat. A little effort but once you try it, you will not go back…Replythewoodwhisperer July 27, 2009 1:59 pm Sounds like the best of both worlds John! Thanks man. Reply Ron.of.the.north October 13, 2009 9:33 pm This is a very interesting discussion. I see nobody mentioned using tung oil for finishing the cutting board. Marc, how would this compare to mineral oil or walnut oil? Thanks, Ron Replythewoodwhisperer October 13, 2009 10:10 pm You know, I don’t see what you couldn’t use pure tung oil. I think it would be far better to use than mineral oil since it will actually cure. It won’t offer as much protection as the varnishing method but is certainly a good alternative for those those who don’t want to use varnish, but don’t want the mess of applying an oil that never cures. I would have to try a few sample boards to see how well tung oil would hold up, but in theory, it seems like a great alternative. Reply WNY woodlady August 25, 2010 8:18 am We use Tung oil and mineral spirits and they turn out wonderful. Food safe, long lasting and gorgeous. This is the first time I have ever seen it mentioned in a thread and its all we use on our wood products. Reply Ray Oliver August 7, 2011 2:45 pm I was under the distinct impression that Tung Oil is NOT food safe. Oliver Warlow January 13, 2012 3:00 am Hi Ron, Just a small note about Tung Oil, It is a nut oil. Though it is food safe anyone with a nut allergy (myself included) will have a reaction to the oil or anything prepared on that surface. In the USA approx 6.9 million citizens have a nut allergy and in the UK about 1 in 100 people will have the allergy. I would not reccomend it simply due to the high likelihood that someone could be harmed by it. Oliver Reply Donny Walsh December 12, 2016 3:38 pm Oliver, are you absolutely sure someone could have a reaction to a cutting board finished with tung oil, or is that your conjecture? Reply Donny Walsh December 12, 2016 4:31 pm Actually, Oliver, the tung “nut” is not a nut, it is a seed. Reply Daan December 14, 2009 1:10 pm I would like to make the cuttingboard bud i cant find the drwawing and the list off used products. I am living in the netherlands we dont use inch but centimeter. would you help me Replythewoodwhisperer December 14, 2009 1:13 pm Hi Daan. You can find the videos and plans here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ve-part-1/Can’t help you with the metric measurements though. You’ll have to use one of those online calculators to get the conversions. Reply Dominic December 22, 2009 10:08 am Hello,Use mineral spirits on my food make me fear. What do you think about citrus solvent? It’s use in food industry so maybe more âReplythewoodwhisperer December 22, 2009 10:56 am Hey Dominic. Personally I don’t have any concerns about using mineral spirits. Its already in the salad bowl finish, which is considered food safe when cured. I have never worked with Citrus solvent but it certainly sounds like a great alternative. If you try it, please let me know how it works. Reply JMAN April 13, 2010 6:57 pm In the video you mention using a random orbit sander as one way of flattening the board before going into the second round of cuts. What’s the best grit to use at this particular step? Replythewoodwhisperer April 13, 2010 7:12 pm Probably 80 grit would be adequate. Replybetadelta94 April 26, 2010 8:28 am Marc, I have a 24X24 maple butcher block that is 13in thick. I sanded the top and sides with 80 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, 180 grit, then 240 grit. I used the 50/50 salad bowl finish with mineral spirits and applied 3 coats 5-10 minutes apart from each other then let it dry overnight. This morning I added another coat and plan on doing it again tonight as well. My question is how many applications do I need to apply for it to be completely sealed? In your video, you apllied 2 coats, lightly sanded, and applied the 3rd coat. I’m assuming with a thicker block, I will need more than 3 coats. My goal is to have the finished block to be smooth as glass. Also, once I apply the second to last coat and let it dry, followed up with a light sanding of 400 grit sandpaper, would it be a good idea to melt some bees wax into the 50/50 solution and apply it as my final coat? Thanks Replythewoodwhisperer April 29, 2010 11:39 am Well, that’s a tough question to answer. At 13″ thick, this might not be the best solution for the board. By putting varnish in the wood, you have already partially sealed it, so liquids will absorb much slower than if the wood was raw. But if you use this method to completely seal it up in the way that I do for my skinny boards, you might be there for a while. I just don’t know if that’s the best course of action. You might want to add a few more coats, sand the whole surface, then switch over to a mineral oil/wax mixture for regular maintenance. Keep in mind that you can certainly get the surface glass smooth, but you do not want a film. A dull cutting board is a safe cutting board. :)And if you do add beeswax, I would do it with mineral oil and not varnish. I would be concerned about the flammability of the varnish around heat. Reply Cliff Bramlett August 9, 2010 6:52 pm I know the fervor seems to have died down (a bit), but I thought I’d post this resource: Link to the MSDS sheet detailing safety levels of the varnish Marc mentioned: http://www.generalfinishes.com.....2-4-09.pdf Short version, it contains less than 0.1% of any carcinogen, is stable (doesn’t break down into other chemicals), and has no hazardous polymerization. For anyone familiar with MSDS reports, most of the scary stuff in that report is common sense – use good ventilation, don’t set it on fire, don’t drink the stuff, and wash up after you’re done. It IS a varnish, but follow Marc’s directions and it appears to be no worse than Mineral Oil which is, btw, a laxative. Mineral Oil MSDS: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/M7700.htm Beeswax MSDS: http://www.sciencelab.com/x MSDS-Beeswax-9927322 Tung Oil MSDS: http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000304AA.pdf In fact, the salad bowl finish MSDS says that if you ingest it you should rinse your mouth if conscious and seek medical attention if necessary. The MSDS for mineral oil says “If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. Give large quantities of water. […] Get medical attention immediately. Aspiration hazard.” Compare those two warnings and then consider how long mineral oil has been a standard for butcher blocks. I’m fine with the salad bowl finish. Reply Ron Oleston October 3, 2010 5:31 am I would like a pattern that is on the front of your plans not the one in the video. Could you tell me what cuts will achieve that look? Replythewoodwhisperer October 3, 2010 5:59 am The cuts are all the same as are the individual strips. The only thing that differs is the placement of the thinnest strip during the initial glueup. One version is with the thin strips on the outside and one is with them on the inside. Reply Ron Oleston October 4, 2010 6:00 am I have been studing the picture and need some additional help. Please advise me on the correct order for each pattern. In what order do the various width cuts go in. I really want to come up with various patterns. I really like your video. We have decided to make 8 for Xmas presents. Replythewoodwhisperer October 4, 2010 7:31 am Let me explain a little further Ron. In the video, I made two versions. I actually only intended to show one. But I got them mixed up. So the first half of the video shows one pattern and then it switches at some point. Its only a minor detail but the written plan gives you the pattern you see in all the pictures. So follow the plan and you’ll get whats in the picture. If you change the order of the initial glueup, you can get all kinds of unique patterns. The original calls for the order to start with the widest boards on the outside, and the thinnest boards toward the inside, alternating between the two species. If we think of the boards as 4, 3, 2 and 1 (larger number being the wider boards), the order in the plan would be 4, 3, 2, 1, right? Or since we have two species, the more accurate way to say it is 4 (maple), 1 (PH), 3 (maple), 2 (PH), 2 (maple), 3 (PH), 1 (maple), 4 (PH). If you want to do the variation I accidentally showed in the video, try this order: 4 (maple), 3 (PH), 2 (maple), 1 (PH), 1 (maple), 2 (PH), 3 (maple), 4 (PH). That should do the trick. But double check yourself to make sure. Reply Ron Oleston October 22, 2010 11:27 am The patterns look great. I used purpleheart and maple. After my second glue up, I am rounding the edge with a table router and a 1/4 inch round. I am discovering that every section of purpleheart is splintering on every side? It is not a blowout at the end but every time I go over the purpleheart. The maple is not so I am confused. The piece is going from the right to the left. Do you have any suggestions? Replythewoodwhisperer October 22, 2010 6:58 pm Hey Ron. The purpleheart has different working properties than the walnut, and doesn’t take as well to routing in some cases. So I would try taking smaller bites per pass and work your way up to the full 1/4″ roundover. Reply Jason October 23, 2010 6:25 amjust a quick note- for all those having trouble getting the diluted finish to completely soak through to the other side, make sure you don’t sand past 180 grit before applying the finish. After making @30 boards, I find that 120 grit works best- leaves a smooth enough finish and doesn’t close up the pores, allowing the varnish to completely soak through. Between coats, I’ll sand with 180, 220, and 300 to give it a nice luster. Reply Alex November 28, 2010 8:34 pm Hey Marc,I’m going to be making a board in the coming weeks and I’m from Canada where the selection is not always the greatest for some things so I found this butcher block finish from Watco ( http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp..... Part Number) but I don’t know if it’s a “food safe varnish” or some kind of oil. I would personally use a regular varnish but since this is a gift, I don’t really want to do this but I don’t want to use mineral oil if I can avoid it. Do you know anything about this product from watco and do you have any other suggestions? Thanks Alex P. S. Your podcasts are addictive!Replythewoodwhisperer November 28, 2010 8:54 pm Hey Alex. From what I am reading, it looks like its a varnish, similar to General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. So i think this is a good option if you need a “food safe” varnish. Thanks for watching!Reply Ron November 30, 2010 7:55 am I wonder if you could advise me with anything that can be done to eliminate the sap from coming thru. Out of 11 boards doing the same process only 2 had sap spots. Help;Replythewoodwhisperer November 30, 2010 7:59 am Hey Ron. Honestly, a board that’s excreting sap might not be the best choice for a cutting board. Sometimes you can seal sap in using finish, but that’s not a great idea for a cutting board. We don’t want to apply a thick film on the surface. So if those were my boards, I would probably cut them down to remove the area with the sap and pretend I just made a new design. :)Reply Ron November 30, 2010 8:47 am The trouble is that I did not notice any sap before or after cutting first and second time. But after glueing up second time little black spots appeared on the Maple only on certain boards. Is that sap coming out or something else? Anything I can do to prevent. By the way everyone loves the boards THANKSReplythewoodwhisperer November 30, 2010 12:40 pm You’re very welcome Ron. While I don’t think the black spots are sap, I am still concerned about them. Black spots could be indicative of a few things. Could be mold or it could be cause from small bits of metal. Either way, both possibilities make me nervous thinking of them being used as a food prep surface. Perhaps I’m being a little too cautious but better safe than sorry. So maybe try sanding the board a little more to see if the spots go away. If they should reappear, before or after finishing, you might consider scrapping them (as much as it pains me to say it). Reply Ken F November 30, 2010 1:28 pm Hi Marc,I did a boo boo, I made a 20x15x3 end grain cutting board And not remembering to use at least Tiebond-II (water proof), I used Tiebond standard. But I think this varnish technique to seal from water and moister is the perfect solution. Thanks Reply Jacob December 5, 2010 11:28 pm Hey Marc,First off I want to thank you for all of the information in this site! I’m a definite future guild member!Now on to my question. I’m all set to finish a few boards that I made for Christmas presents and I was going to use General Finish’s Salad Bowl finish and follow the process you use in your videos. I noticed on the can of Salad Bowl Finish it specifically says not to thin. Is that a general warning like “do not drink” or is there something that I missing? Thanks!Replythewoodwhisperer December 6, 2010 8:52 am Yes that can be ignored. My assumption is that they don’t want you to thin because they can’t guarantee its behavior once thinning is involved. Reply Chris July 15, 2016 1:27 pm The usual uses for the Salad Bowl finish are counters, bowls, utensils. The cutting board is cut into as you use it, the others, not. To me the difference is a harder/thicker coat on the standard uses, and the 50-75/cut on the cutting board. Reply Ross December 11, 2010 11:54 am Marc,Thanks for the tips on finish. I am finishing 13 boards with the salad bowl finish of varying thickness (1-2″). I am having trouble determining when the wood is saturated. The first coat soaked right in like you said and I flooded it until it came through. I have just applied a second coat and it already appears to be standing on the surface. Do I continue to apply a 3rd coat? I don’t want to build a film like you talk about. Also, do you ever sand after the final coat with fine steel wool or is that a mistake? Thanks for your help. Replythewoodwhisperer December 11, 2010 1:17 pm Hey Ross. If the second coat lays on the surface, simply wipe off the excess and let it dry. Flip the board over and do the other side and you are good to go. And feel free to buff the board after the final coat. Bottom line is, the board shouldn’t be shiny like a piece of furniture. So abrading the surface after the fact is ok. Reply Alex December 21, 2010 10:47 am Marc,The video is not working here. Do you have any other mirror links or on itunes or anywhere else where this video can be found? Thanks Replythewoodwhisperer December 21, 2010 11:48 am Hey Alex. I think this video was accidentally deleted. I’ll look into it. Reply Tony December 29, 2010 3:15 pm After seeing your tutorial I decided to make 3 boards for family as Christmas gifts.

I was curious if anyone can suggest how to refinish this properly, and in a manner that wont lead to this problem reoccurring. Also, the other two boards i gave out have not yet been used. They were treated the same way with the exception that i personalized the back of those 2 with a router. So any help on how to repair the first board and how to prevent the other two from the same fate. Others have mentioned mineral oil but I am reluctant to use that since I already used this WATCO finish. Any assistance would be appreciated thanks Replythewoodwhisperer December 29, 2010 4:35 pm Hey Tony. First things first. Cutting boards are surfaces what will never stay smooth. If they do, that means you aren’t using it. By nature, the boards will absorb some liquid while also being punished by knives and other cutting devices. To expect this surface to say smooth is unfortunately not realistic. Generally speaking, I find that my boards all react this way after they are made. The grain raises and you can feel all the glue lines. What I found to be the best course of action is to continue using them for a few months. Let them get some wear and tear. After a few months, take the board back in the shop, give it a light sanding to smooth things out and reapply your finish. Now this time, you should find the board doesn’t get quite as rough after it is used again and the joint lines won’t be as noticeable. But they will still be there. Its the nature of the beast and its something that happens to all cutting boards. Reply David February 23, 2011 2:44 pm Hey Marc,I went to the Sherwin-Williams to get the varnish for the cutting board- (evidently the big stores don’t carry varnish). The counter guy pointed me to a high gloss vs satin (no semi available). He stated the high gloss is more “natural” for varnish; that for satin and semi they actually add flatteners. The choice may be trivial, but I respect your opinions so- what would you have chosen? Also I’m a little concerned for sending this board as a gift long distance. I feel I won’t have the ability to refinish it or fix it a couple months down the line once the grains settle in. Any thoughts on this matter? Thanks!Replythewoodwhisperer February 23, 2011 2:56 pmhey David. Since the ultimate goal here is to protect the wood but NOT create a film, the sheen really doesn’t matter. So no reason to buy anything with flatteners in it. I’d just go for gloss. Reply David February 23, 2011 3:02 pm Any thoughts on sending it long distance and not being able to refinish it after the grains have settled? Replythewoodwhisperer February 23, 2011 3:07 pm Hmm, maybe send some sandpaper so you can talk them through smoothing the board out in 6 months? Reply Terry August 2, 2011 12:47 pm For all those Canadians trying to get the Behlen Salad Bowl Finish there is a hardware store called Richelieu Hardware that sells it. Looking at the locations they have quite a few across Canada and you can order it online as well. http://www.richelieu.com/produ.....select Gr=1Reply Andrew November 1, 2011 10:17 am First off thanks very much for you informative videos. I am about to start my first in a long series of cutting boards for holiday gifts. I am concerned about the finish…specifically the use of mineral spirits around food. I assume there is a good answer, but how can something so toxic be safe to use around food? I assume the toxic part evaporates, but is there any data to support that? Something about using a chemical like that on a cutting board just makes me nervous. I am not trying to argue, just trying to learn :) Thanks again. Your videos are spectacular. Replythewoodwhisperer November 1, 2011 12:41 pm Hey Andrew. Many dangerous/toxic chemicals can be safe after they evaporate. Any residue left behind is washed away with soap and water. All that’s really left on the surface is resin. And many companies sell varnish for food items that is FDA approved. These all contain mineral spirits or naptha, just like their “non FDA appproved” cousins. But if you aren’t comfortable with it, don’t use it. You can always go the mineral oil route. Just keep in mind that if you dig deeper into that topic, you will find folks who are afraid to use mineral oil as it is actually a petroleum produce. All depends on how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole. :)Reply Andrew November 2, 2011 6:58 am Thanks for the quick response. I did look at the spec/safety sheet for the General Finish salad bowl finish, and it does indeed contain mineral spirits on its own. But they do specify that it should not be used for chopping blocks, they recommend mineral oil for that. I assume they give this warning for legal purposes because the varnish is not “officially” approved for this purpose. Have you ever tried or heard of using mineral spirit alternatives, like Citrus-based ones? Maybe this isn’t good because it could spoil: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html One last question (ok, a few) – should I go with the mineral oil/wax mixture…1. Any reason to go with beeswax over parafin? 2. Once the mixture goes to room temperature, does it harden? Could I supply each person for whom I make a cutting board a little container of it so they could reapply as necessary? 3. How often (approximate) should the oil/wax mixture be reapplied? Less often than straight mineral oil? Sorry this post is so long! I plan to start my first cutting board tonight….my first real woodworking project alltogether, 100% inspired by your video, thanks!Reply Andrew December 8, 2011 9:30 am After talking to toxic substance specialists at my job (I work for a health department), I decided that the salad bowl finish w/ mineral spirits is just fine and safe. I’m going with that from now on :)Reply Jørgen December 13, 2011 11:34 am Hello I live in Norway, and i can’t find mineral oil anywhere (at least not in a sensible quantity). I have how ever seen parafin oil, which as I understand is basically the same thing, been used for cutting boards. Any thoughts? Replythewoodwhisperer December 15, 2011 1:16 pm Yes, paraffin oil should be the same thing as mineral oil. Replychippysteveo January 16, 2012 10:49 am Does it matter if I use a spirit based varnish and use white spirit to thin it down. It seems to have worked well Replythewoodwhisperer January 16, 2012 10:57 am Yeah I think we’re talking about the same stuff. White spirits = mineral spirits. Reply Rebecca March 20, 2012 10:02 pm I hear that a plain cutting board with no finish is best if I will be cutting raw meat on it. Is it cool to make one side finished and one not, so you can simply use one side for meat and the other for veggies? Also, I hear coconut oil is the safest, healthiest oil, as it is not a petroleum product. Walnut is great but apparently some people have allergies. Have you tried either of these? Thanks!Replythewoodwhisperer March 21, 2012 9:03 am You’ll find that there are lots of differing opinions about how to treat cutting boards. Personally, I would not finish only one side of a cutting board since I don’t really see the harm in using a finish. And I haven’t tried walnut oil (for the same reasons) or coconut oil. I find the mineral oil/wax mixture works great when I need to use an oil. But my varnishing method is my preferred finish. Reply Rebecca March 22, 2012 3:49 pm Thank you! I heard about these alternative ways of finishing the cutting boards from “green” and natural health sites online that are concerned with lessening toxin exposures as much as possible, especially for people with cancer, liver related diseases, or compromised immunities. Apparently, while mineral oil is considered “safe” to digest for most people, it still has some toxins in it due to its petroleum base. Unfortunately, our world is so full of different toxins now in our food, water, air, etc. that any opportunities to use totally toxin-free substances are recommended..in order to avoid further damage or vulnerabilities, especially in people with health issues. The natural wood (untreated) apparently has anti-bacterial action to it, and the board can still be washed with soap and water, dried standing up, and then sanded periodically. However, it’s not beautiful like yours. I just wondered if you had any experience with this or other methods considered the most “green” from natural health websites. Thank you!! !Replythewoodwhisperer March 22, 2012 7:38 pm Personally, I don’t feel that there is really anything wrong with using mineral oil on a cutting board or varnish for that matter. But I certainly can’t fault someone for wanting go the most natural route possible. In that case, you might try a mixture of one of the recommended oils and some beeswax. I don’t have any experience with the oils you mentioned though. And keep in mind it won’t look like my board. Well, to be honest, my board doesn’t look like “my board” anymore either. Once a cutting board is in use, it dulls quickly and starts to look like the work surface it is intended to be. So I don’t really worry too much about that. I’d recommend going the oil/wax route and simply reapply as needed. Robin Jackson March 31, 2012 11:53 am When I do an end grain cutting board and use Behlens and or mineral oil it seems to darken the woods enough that you can’t see the different colors anymore. I used Poplar, Purple heart, bubinga and walnut which looked pretty (if I can use that word). As soon as I applied mineral oil all three of the darker woods took on the same color. before the finish I had a deep orange, Purple and walnut color against the white Poplar. I now have a darkened poplar and all three of the colorful woods have blended in to one color. Is there a finish I can use to retain the original colors? Thanks Replythewoodwhisperer March 31, 2012 12:32 pm Wax or perhaps a light oil like mineral oil. Although just about any oil will darken the wood. Since the board is end grain, this is the nature of the beast. Reply Scott June 10, 2012 9:46 am Wow you aren’t kidding, what a confusing subject to research. I was originally told to use Tung oil on my cutting board, so i bought some, but then was told it is not safe. Now I came across your website and like your suggestion of mixing salad bowl finish and mineral spirits. I am,however, having a difficult time finding any salad bowl finish; therefore, I was wondering if I could get away with using your method by mixing mineral spirits with the salad bowl finish, but would like to substitute my tung oil for salad bowl finish. Replythewoodwhisperer June 10, 2012 2:49 pm Well unfortunately, “tung oil” in this industry is a highly mis-used term. What is in the can depends on what brand you have. If it is pure tung oil, you should be ok to use this on a board and dilute it if you choose. Just keep in mind it needs a lot more dry time than the salad bowl finish. Also keep in mind that many disagree with my salad bowl finish system on end grain boards, but it works for me so I continue to use it. Reply Mark June 24, 2012 11:49 am I have had a request from a local winery to make some cheese boards for their wine shop. They did not want the expense of end grain cutting boards, so they opted for some edge grain boards. I typically sand my cutting boards to 400 grit and then apply several coats of mineral oil. Use and care instructions come with every board I make and it says in big bold letters “DO NOT SOAK IN WATER or USE IN DISHWASHER”. However, even with a little water used just to wipe clean, this raises the wood grain. I explain to my customers that all wood when wet will have the grain raised a bit. That’s the nature of wood. Is there anything I can do, finishes I can use to slow down or prevent the grain from raising? Would there be a problem with soaking the wood, let dry completely, then resanding before applying the finish? I have read several posts related to cutting board finishes. But none of them mention raising of the grain. Replythewoodwhisperer June 25, 2012 5:50 am The finish mentioned in this article will help prevent grain-raising, but it’s up to you if you want to use it on a client’s board. You can certainly pre-raise the grain before finishing, which I would recommend. But with a mineral oil finish, the grain is going to become raised again at some point. As you said, it’s just the nature of the beast. Reply Andrew Levine June 25, 2012 9:38 am On Marc’s suggestion, I have been using Tried & True Varnish Oil on long-grain boards. It is bit trickier to apply, but it does work very well. It’s 100% natural, and it has both oil and varnish. Word of advice, apply it VERY VERY VERY VERY thin. What I do is this…I take a clean cloth. I Put some of the finish into a separate container (a very little bit. With gloves on, I dip my fingers into the finish and wipe it off onto the cloth. I do this a few times, just so the cloth is basically coated. Then I rub the finish on from that cloth. I wipe it on till the entire board is coated…barely. An hour later, I wipe it dry with a clean rag. The next day I lightly sand with 400 grit paper, and repeat. About 4 coats like this works well. If you put it on any thicker, it just stays oily and doesnt cure for days. They say this in the directions, but I didn’t believe just HOW thinly it needs to be applied. Reply Luke June 28, 2012 5:52 pm What a great site!I made a butcher block dinning room table out of hard maple. I’ve got it planned and now am looking to figure out the next step as far as sanding and finish. Do you have any recommendations as it won’t be a cutting board but would still like to keep it food safe, last a long time, and have a nice finish? Reply Andrew Levine July 9, 2012 9:53 am Any idea if pre-mixing mineral spirits into salad bowl finish will cause it to cure prematurely? I have a half can left, and a new can on the way. I was thinking just filling the half can to the top with MS so I don’t have to mix it up every time I use it. Any reason to NOT do that? Thanks!Replythewoodwhisperer July 9, 2012 12:30 pm No it shouldn’t cause it to cure faster. But every time you open the lid and expose it to fresh air, you decrease the shelf life. You might invest in some Bloxygen if long term storage is needed. Reply Andrew Levine July 9, 2012 12:44 pm Bloxygen – that is an awesome name! I will look into it, thanks Marc.. Reply Vincent September 14, 2012 3:01 pm Hi Marc please let me know I’m live in Canada and love your videos but I didn’t found mineral oil in any store , somebody toll me abut in animal shops but I’m really don’t know and other people say in a drugstore !!!! It’s a especific mineral oil for finishing ??? Thanks . Replythewoodwhisperer September 14, 2012 3:41 pm Hmm, it might just be something that is sold under a different name. I’m sure one of our friendly Canadian readers can offer a suggestion. But perhaps look for other names like “white oil”, “paraffin oil”, and “liquid petroleum”. Here in the US it is sold as a laxative product in drug stores. Reply Chris January 16, 2013 5:14 pmany local drug store in canada sells it. I get mine at london drugs. Reply Jared Devers January 25, 2013 6:16 pm I got mine at Safeway. Go to the pharmacy ask them. Mineral Oil is used as a laxative. Reply Bill Malloch September 21, 2012 1:57 pm I have made cutting boards from left over hardwood flooring pieces. I usually used many coats of boiled linseed oil diluted with turpentine as a finish. Some of my boards have now been in use for over ten years with no ill effects. What are your thoughts on using this method of wood treatment. Replythewoodwhisperer September 21, 2012 2:16 pm I think it’s fine. I know some will object to the use of turpentine and the fact that BLO has chemical driers added to it. But once the oil cures up, I personally don’t think there is much to worry about. But this is one of those areas where people need to decide for themselves, so I try not to make any definitive claims, only my opinions. Reply Mark Herzberg October 8, 2012 2:44 pm I am a beginning woodworker. I made the board with hard maple and jatoba. Beautiful. I noticed during sanding that after I had reached a very fine surface with 220 grit and after a day of rest, the glue lines (Tite Bond III) could be felt again as fine lines. Am I right in concluding that the glue expands? Sanding again with fine grit returns the surface to a mirror finish. Replythewoodwhisperer October 8, 2012 3:55 pm Yup. The glue line tends to move. And every time the board gets wet, you will feel those joint lines. Just the nature of the beast. I have found though, after a few months of use, a re-sand and re-finish does help to tame the joint lines on a longer term basis. Give that a shot. Reply Tm Doyle November 4, 2012 9:40 pm Hay Marc, I really liked your video on cutting boards. Your method worked well. I have two questions. 1) Do you apply a wax over the salad bowl finish? 2) If a cutting board had a butcher bolck oil on it and I wanted to use the salad bowl oil would I sand down the cutting board and then apply the salad bowl finish? Reply Josh December 13, 2012 7:36 am When constructing a project with glue-ups of multiple species do you worry much about different expansion and contraction rates of the different species? Do you know of a resource for checking compatibility of different species? Replythewoodwhisperer December 13, 2012 8:41 am It’s definitely something to consider whenever using more than one species. But it’s hard to know at what point there will be a problem. There are just too many variables at play. But in general, it is probably best to avoid combining woods with drastically different expansion rates. One thing you can do is check the relative expansion rates using the Woodshop Widget. http://woodshopwidget.com/Reply Dennis Culver July 18, 2014 10:00 am Hi: I followed your directions on a test board. Your recipe worked good and my board is essentially waterproof… However, the mixture significantly darkened the board. Is there something I missed or is that just the price to be paid with this approach ?thanks Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 18, 2014 10:03 am That’s just what happens when you put oil on end grain. Nature of the beast. Philip Hammond July 22, 2016 5:17 pm Hey Woodwhisperer, I went through the entire thread and all the boards you are talking about are end grain cutting boards and you mention not to leave a film. I have a beautiful long grain maple island table in my kitchen. I know it doesnt drink up as much solution so could I still get away using salad bowl finish? or would I be sorry as it would be left with a film? Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 24, 2016 8:19 am If you’re planning on cutting on the surface, I would treat it like a regular long grain cutting board and avoid the film-forming finishes. Kevin January 7, 2013 11:46 am Should you use this process only on end grain boards? Does this process allow you to use more open grain hardwoods like oak for cutting boards? Reply Steve Gentry March 5, 2013 10:35 am Hi Marc, I recently started building cuttingboards after watching your video. Problem is, in my ignorance I used a soft maple and finished it with mineral oil and bees wax. After using it a few times the maple seems to stain badly. Is this due to the fact that I used soft maple, and will the finish you use with the varnish help prevent that? (I have already purchased 20 bd feet of rock maple to hopefully resolve the issue)Reply Marc Spagnuolo March 5, 2013 11:55 am This is probably due to the use of mineral oil. While many folks use it on their boards, it doesn’t really seal the board completely. So liquids can still absorb and stain. Honestly, that’s just life with a cutting board. It’s a work surface and shouldn’t stay pretty for long. Finishing with a varnish can help prevent that level of staining but not completely. Again, it’s a work surface. But I do prefer the varnish finishing method because it does ultimately slow down the absorption of liquids. Reply Will April 3, 2013 5:19 pm Thanks for the great walk-through, I found it extremely useful!The only issue that I have had is during the finishing process. I sanded to 220 grit before applying my salad bowl finish. I have done a light sanding with 400 grit in between coatings, but have noticed scratches showing up once I apply the next coat of finish. Did I do something wrong or somehow miss a step here? Also where is the best store to find the pads for the bottom? Reply Marc Spagnuolo April 3, 2013 6:58 pm Hey Will. Ultimately, the finish is meant to be absorbed. If you’re building a film, then you need to stop applying finish. I like the idea of sealing the wood internally and dramatically slowing down uptake of liquids. But I stop before a film begins to build. We aren’t really going for a shiny board, although a freshly finished board done in the way I outline will have some shine to it initially. This should quickly wear off and eventually it ends up being quite dull looking. But it’s a cutting surface, so that’s ok. I would give the board an even sanding with the 400 grit, wipe it down, let it cure, and then put it in the kitchen. Sounds like you have enough finish applied at this point that you can simply move on to using it. As for pads, I have no idea. I don’t actually have any pads on the bottom of mine. Reply Will April 3, 2013 8:22 pm Thanks for the quick response, Marc!I certainly didn’t intend to build a film. I did 4 coats on the top and sanded in between all of them. It looks like the maple got a tad too much and the walnut is right where it needs to be. So, I guess I’ll just start using it and get it perfect the next time it needs to be resurfaced. On that subject, would you use an orbit sander for the initial re-sanding?-Will Reply Bagman April 15, 2013 9:49 am Wow, you have the patience of Job! Good for you! Great information. One just has to read thru Going to try making a board, thanks to your information. Ballard Reply James April 16, 2013 11:12 am I sealed one board with the salad bowl finish you used. It looks great but it has a strong chemical smell. How do I get rid of that? Reply Marc Spagnuolo April 17, 2013 6:55 am Time and fresh air. That salad bowl finish is nothing more than oil-based varnish and has the smell you’d expect from it. So give the board a few weeks to air out. Give it a light wash and a quick dry every once in a while and eventually it will tone down. Reply Bethany June 24, 2013 12:44 pm Hi! I just purchased a home with brand new butcher board counter tops. I believe it has been sealed once with some sort of oil but would like to do it again for peace of mind. Do you recommend the same process with the Salad Bowl Finish for counter tops that can’t be removed? Thanks Reply Marc Spagnuolo June 25, 2013 5:57 am I do recommend that finish for counter tops, unless you’ll be cutting directly on them. Most countertops are long grain. So if you use a varnish to finish them, you’ll quickly create a film. If you decide to cut on that surface you will create lots of tiny cut lines in the finish where bacteria can thrive. So with that caveat, yes, I think the Salad Bowl Finish would work on that surface. If you are going to use the surface for food prep, I’d recommend a material specifically made for butcher block tops, such as an oil/wax blend. Reply Mike July 15, 2013 8:48 am I am building a kitchen cart with an end grain butcher block top – it is 24×48 – do I seal the bottom of the butcher block top? If so with what – and since it wont be worked on – does it need to be resealed ever? Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 15, 2013 10:24 am I would seal the bottom with the same material that you’re using on the top. Treat it like any other piece of furniture if you don’t plan to cut on it. So an interior poly would probably do the trick if you don’t mind a film finish. Reply Mike July 16, 2013 12:27 pm Thank you for the reply – I can see I wasn’t perfectly clear – I meant since the bottom won’t ever be cut on is a poly the right sealer and good forever – I mean to use the top as a regular cutting board with mineral oil or mineral oil and wax. I think your videos are great – clear, informative and very helpful. Thanks again for the consideration. Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 17, 2013 9:30 pm OH I see now. In that situation, I probably would still apply several coats of poly to the bottom just to seal it in. You should never have to reapply or refinish the bottom after that point. Then treat the top surface as desired.joseph zawodny August 8, 2013 8:38 am Marc, what about using a paste wax after the varnish salad bowl finish? Reply Marc Spagnuolo August 8, 2013 9:23 am Hmm…not sure about that. If the wax is safe to eat after the solvent flashes off then it might be fine. But if i were going to put wax on a food surface I’d prefer to use natural beeswax mixed with some mineral oil. That way you minimize the number of chemicals in the mix. Reply Maggie August 23, 2013 8:13 am I am noticing that once I finsh my cutting boards with mineral oil the maple darkens and all of the pics I see online everyone elses maple stays very light. any suggestions on how to retain the light color of the maple? Reply Marc Spagnuolo August 23, 2013 11:13 am Well, pictures are deceiving. When hit with mineral oil, all maple end grain tends to darken and get a little ugly. Take a high quality photo of your cutting board in good lighting and I bet you’d be surprise at how “light” it looks. In standard kitchen lighting, it will indeed look dull. Reply Ben August 29, 2013 6:01 am Mark, What do you generally use to dilute the salad bowl finish? I’ve asked this question before and made 4 cutting boards, but it’s now been a couple of years since I’ve tried this project. Another wedding gift coming up! Your website is tremendous, by the way.thanks, Ben Reply Marc Spagnuolo August 29, 2013 6:38 am Thanks Ben. I just use mineral spirits for dilution. Reply Jeff September 2, 2013 5:54 pm Hi Marc,Sort of off topic a bit, but is regular indoor poly ok to seal a cutting board with that used solely for cleaning fish? Thanks! !Reply Marc Spagnuolo September 2, 2013 6:43 pm Honestly, I try not to use raw meat or finish on my wood cutting boards. I reserve it primarily for veggies and cooked meats. But I personally see nothing wrong with using a thinned poly to help seal an end grain board. Others will disagree. If we’re talking about side grain or face grain boards, I’d just go with an oil/wax mixture and skip the poly. Leah August 29, 2013 11:50 am Hi. My husband and I, just started making the routered out bowls (Halloween). And I just love them! But with tiny fingers in our house, I want to bowls food safe. You never know if a candy corn will find its way in it. We are going to be using the mineral oil, like you suggest. But I am at a loss for where to find it, in anything bigger than 12 oz. container (saw it on line at Amazon). In Vermont, we have no woodworking stores. Our closest stores are Lowes and Home Depot. What would be your best advice for us to use? Thanks!! !Reply Jim September 2, 2013 12:58 pm You can usually find mineral oil at a pharmacy more easily than at a home center. I got a 16 oz bottle at our neighborhood (i.e., non-chain) pharmacy for $3 or $4. Reply Jonathan September 9, 2013 12:01 am Thank you very much for your video. I made an end grain cuttign board and I followed your directions for the salad bowl/mineral spirits finish I think pretty well 3-4 minutes the first time around. light coat second and third. I found that after the first use and light wash that the board looked like it did before event the first coat was applied. all color drastically lightlened. Do I need to apply more coats or did I go too far. Thank you Reply Jason September 26, 2013 9:39 pm Hey Marc – As always, thanks for all that you do. I started making cutting boards a year and a half ago and I’m now addicted! I always use the salad bowl finish method of sealing the board and I’m running into a little problem as of late. The last few boards that I’ve made, I’ve noticed that after the first coat, the boards refuse to take up any more varnish/mineral spirits mix. That hadn’t been the case before. So to the variables – I’m using the same types of wood – purpleheart and maple; I’m still going down to 220 grit; I am still sanding using my ROS with 220 between coats (I use the ROS because I find that hand sanding after each coat produces obvious scratch marks). I acquired a drum sander and am using that to go to 150 before I even start sanding with the ROS down to 220. But I can’t see how that would impact the finish. When I apply the first coat, I used to see it go through the wood onto the underside as you describe. Now it’s not after 4 minutes. So I stop anyway and put it on its side and come back to it in a day. I sand, then try again and there’s no take-up. Then I wipe it down to remove the excess completely and turn it over and apply it underneath where it soaks it right up. When I come back to the bottom after a day, I sand again and it won’t soak in at all. What I’m concerned about is that I’m getting some in one side and some on the other, but the middle of the board is dry. Perhaps this isn’t a big deal because the side you’ll be using is sealed. Do you think it’s possible that I’m somehow clogging the end grain with very fine dust particles that is inhibiting uptake of the varnish? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Man!Replyjeff November 9, 2013 9:06 am Hey Mark, I finally finished our peninsula countertop in our kitchen. It is 3″ thick by 44 wide by 100″ long. It is end grain butcher block style so it definitely drank a ton of oil. I have made many end grain boards in the past. I always use pure tung oil and mineral oil more or less 50/50 and then melt some beeswax shavings. This time for some reason the surface has become super blotchy with wax like I used too much. I didn’t ad the wax component until toward the last few coats. I used almost a gallon of the oil mix on the top alone as it is super thick end grain. Would you recommend scraping and sanding the wax off and then oiling with tung-mineral oil again? thanks Reply Marc Spagnuolo November 11, 2013 8:28 am Since it’s wax, are you able to simply buff the surface to remove/distribute the extra wax? If not, then I’d say just scrape away the excess and buff the surface. You might also add a little oil to help the rag move around easier but it sounds like you have plenty of oil in the wood already. Replyben spina November 13, 2013 9:31 am Marc, I can’t get any general finishes products nearby. I loved the salad bowl finish. Anything comparable that you could recommend. Do you know of anything that the big box stores carry?thanks so much. Ben Reply Marc Spagnuolo November 13, 2013 11:00 am Minwax Wiping Poly is probably the closest thing on the market, though it isn’t approved as a food-safe finish. Replyben spina November 13, 2013 11:58 amfrom the reading I have done, nearly everything is “food safe” after curing. Could I just use a regular varnish thinned with mineral spirits? Isn’t that basically what the salad bowl finish is without the “FDA Approval?”Reply Marc Spagnuolo November 13, 2013 12:17 pm Yes it is. But I don’t like to give absolute recommendations on stuff like this, for liability reasons. I can tell you that it is my personal belief that it’s basically the same stuff and that it is indeed safe once cured. John December 22, 2013 10:55 am I love the website, the vids and all the great info you put out there. Ive been making cutting boards for awhile now out of mixed species like black walnut, cherry, hickory and hard maple. All the boards ive made so far have been end grain so I cant speak for edge grain types but, I use watco butcher block sealant/finish by rustoleum and its available at lowes. So far ive had very few issues with the finish and after 2-4 coats it doesnt need anymore sealing. I sand to 220 with a ROS before first coat and then with 320 also with ROS between coats. A few things I had to figure out on my own were that after you apply the finish with a cotton cloth let it stand for about 30-45 secs and then wipe with clean dry cloth to prevent building a film. Also allow 48hrs after glue up to keep the finish from reacting with the glue (I use titebond 3). additionaly you should finish all sides at the same time to prevent warping and when handeling the freshly finished piece be sure not to touch with bare handsn I always grab it with clean dry cloth since anything else seems to leave blotchy spots. I hope this helps. Reply John February 9, 2014 8:48 am Hi Mark, Life moves on… My 3 year professional woodworking carrier came to an end in 2010 when the secondary housing market just stopped (Steamboat Springs, Co.), and the need for custom work in a small town faded away. so back to the real world, I guess it is not all that bad (I’m lying)…The Good… My son can confidently state that “My Dad has an awesome set of tools”Enough history… The cutting boards…. I have made many of these over the years, as you know always popular and unlike most things I have made, I actually made one for myself and it is still going strong. now the question or more like an observation on the finish…. I have done both methods many times, MO and Varnish. Like you I love the level of effort needed to maintain the varnished board (none) and the appearance when it is done, but I am going to guess like me you love your nice tools and that goes for our kitchen knives as well. As you mention the knife does slice into the varnish, no flake, no mess but every time I hear the chop against the much harder surface I feel it is not ideal for the edge of the blade. Do you feel that you are sacrificing the utility of an end grain board buy sealing with a hard varnish. Maybe it is just a feel thing but when I cut on my small oiled boards same material, I don’t cringe as much knowing it is diving into the end grain as designed…Just sitting here having coffee and felt like dropping in…. Love the boards, love the program, glad that you are still hard at it!! !John Reply Seth Richardson February 17, 2014 9:29 am Hi Marc, I’ve got an awesome 36 year old chopping block table that I sanded and cleaned up beautifully. It’s an old Aerohot maple table that has the manufactured date on it. Then, one of my guys in my shop over oiled it and now it feels “oily” even after a week. Any ideas how to fix this? Should I re-sand it or is there some other way to take care of this problem. Clearly, he will not be in charge of finishing this again…;) Thanks, Seth Replycrb2 March 2, 2014 7:36 pmgreat site, great thread.someone mentioned they used walnut oil. walnut oil turns rancid w time – i wouldn’t use it. do with this what you may…Reply Jonathan March 5, 2014 3:55 pmi finished an edge grain butcher block with 50% varnish/50% mineral spirits mix. The first time i used it the water from the veggies i was cutting left white spots all over the board and when i went to rinse it off the board started to look dry and fade in color almost instantly. Any information on this issue? Reply Sean Wright April 27, 2014 7:56 am Marc, I have made a number of end grain cutting boards and always have used mineral oil as the finish. However I am going to make a few long grain boards, (I know they are less durable). Would the salad bowl finish (50% cut) like you suggest work on these as well as it does on the end grain boards? You had mentioned that with end grain boards it weeps through the end grain and comes out on the bottom. This probably won’t happen on long grain. Would it still be worth doing, or should I just stick to mineral oil? Reply Judy August 14, 2014 7:50 am I have applied the Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish. For maintenance sake, would it be ok if I were to apply a coating of Boos Block Board Cream on top of the Watco finish as time goes on? Just less work than using Watco finish and drying time /sanding, etc. Reply Mike August 28, 2014 8:34 am Hi Woodwhisperer,I have a quick question for you regarding the mineral oil finishing strategy. Why do you do the first coat or two with straight mineral oil instead of with the oil/wax cocktail? Is there a reason not to go straight for the blend on a raw board? Thanks! Mike Reply Marc Spagnuolo August 28, 2014 10:50 am My logic is that the oil will absorb deeper without the wax in the mix. Reply Ed September 21, 2014 10:50 am I was wondering the same thing on this topic. I am inclined to go with what Flexner says on the topic in his book Flexner on Finishes, thought it was very interesting. Like TWW also recomends looking at the MSDS sheet if you have questions about a finish.“despite what you’ve read elsewhere, almost every wood finish should be considered food-safe.”“a salad bowl finish is simply thinned varnish” (looks like from the example about 50% mineral spirits and 50% varnish)So basically he advocates most finishes are fine when FULLY CURED. (i.e. 30 days for oil based, water based seems to be a totally different)Also I thought it was interesting he was talking about the metal driers that are in varnishes still being in salad bowl finish. Reply M Rankin October 11, 2014 8:09 pm Hi Marc What exactly is “salad bowl finish”? We are building side-grain cutting boards and are finishing with just mineral oil… If I use mineral oil only what is your recommendation on application? ex. – soak or no soak If I use salad bowl finish what is the best way to apply, mix (how to and with what) Thanks Reply Marc Spagnuolo October 12, 2014 9:19 am Salad bowl finish depends on the maker. It’s a pretty generic term. But from what I’ve experienced, most companies are just selling a varnish product and calling it “salad bowl finish.” As for application, check out this video for the various methods I use: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ing-board/Reply Dan Ox December 23, 2014 9:47 am Good Morning Marc, First off, thank you for all the informational videos you produce. I am new to wood working and these are extremely helpful as i stumble through some of the more difficult tasks. I just got done building a Hickory Butcher block for a counter in my kitchen. Turned out awesome. I have applied many layers of Howard brand butcher block conditioner. This is mineral oil and natural waxes combined. I have applied about 5-6 coats of this oil hoping to build up a wax layer to protect against water and such. After all the coats, I installed the top and began using it. After the first few uses, I wiped down the top with a wet cloth and now it feels like the grain has raised up in a few places. I took some 220 grit sand paper and smoothed it out and then applied more oil. The grain continues to raise in certain areas. Is there a solution that you can think of to fix this issue, or do you think its going to continue to happen? I was under the impression that Hickory is a very hard tight grained wood so therefore great for a counter top. I am using all face grain and edge grain on this project so I am not sure if your method for End grain would be acceptable for this project. Also, If I were to go with your method, would it still work out okay after all the oil that has been applied to the top? Looking forward to hearing from someone with more experience in this field. Thanks,Reply Lisa S February 7, 2015 12:12 pm Marc,I’m going to try this cutting board project, but I have two suggestions if you ever do another with a different pattern. First, I’ve always been told that it’s highly recommended when you use wood cutting boards, to only cut raw chicken on one side, for safety reasons. Second, a cutting board this size is probably going to see some use for cutting meats. Because of this, it would be a good idea to route out a 1/4″ deep channel, about 1″ in from the edge, all around the board on one side to catch any meat juices. Thanks!Reply W Koehn February 19, 2015 10:32 pm I’m using a 4×8 sheet of oak plywood. How long does mineral oil need to sit before using the table? Is there anything else I need to mix with the mineral oil? I need to cut meat in about 38 hrs. Reply Marc Spagnuolo February 20, 2015 7:17 am Mineral oil never really dries. But usually within 24 hrs the surface can be used. And just for the record, oak plywood probably isn’t the best meat-cutting surface. The open pores and grain of oak make great places for bacteria to hide. Also, the plywood could wind up warping or delaminating over time with this kind of use. This is why pretty much all cutting surfaces out there are made with solid wood. Just something to keep in mind. Replykerry pittenger February 26, 2015 7:22 am My issue is sealing end grain boards with mineral oil,…..it makes everything dark,…..is there something that will seal it but not darken it? I did a walnut and rock maple end grain board and it just took away the natural beauty and it’s too dark,…. compared to the side grain. I get why it does that,…little tiny straws etc,…. But would like to see the pretty wood and design. Reply Carrie March 17, 2015 7:03 am Hi Marc, I’m wondering if you would recommend s similar salad bowl finish + diluting with mineral spirits for a 300 lb. antique butcher block? I have one in my garage waiting for a makeover, and I love it’s look but don’t intend to use it for food prep. Does that open my options as far as finishing? I plan on sanding to get some of the stains and unevenness out of it, and then ideally I’d like to seal it with something to bring out the beauty of the wood without giving it a high shine. (Preferably not mineral oil alone, as I don’t want it to need continued maintenance but rather something that will dry hard.) It’ll be in my country-style kitchen and a shiny surface seems out of place on a humble butcher block. I’d love your opinion, thank you so much! Carrie Reply Marc Spagnuolo March 17, 2015 7:06 am Salad bowl finish will work, but you might be better off with something like a matte or satin wiping poly. Just a couple of coats should give you decent protection without a high shine. Reply Carrie March 17, 2015 10:14 am Thank you! I was worried that something simple like a ploy, which I use on most of my other refinishing projects, would somehow be sacrilegious on butcher block. But if the only reason to use mineral oil or similar is to allow food prep safety and that’s not an issue for me, I’ll gladly use poly. Thanks so much!Reply Geo March 26, 2015 3:32 am Hi everyone. Not being a woodworker, I think your experience with different finishes on wood will save me from my own thoughs on the subject :-)I’ve used mineral oil for a few years now. Then I wanted to “seal” the board so i mixed 4:1 ratio of beeswax in my oil. The concern I have is the following.can I use this mix everytime for maintenance? ie : apply one coat of this when needed and not worrying about how the previous wax might stop the mixture to penetrate the wood? Should I combine several coats of mineral oil and reserve the beeswax mixture for the last coat? Should I do anything, prior to the adequate traetment (chosen from the above) to remove the wax before treating it again? If I want to apply Marc finish, can I go back from where I am? Thanks a lot :-)Reply Marc Spagnuolo March 27, 2015 6:37 am Hi Geo. You can continue to use the wax/oil mixture for every treatment. No real reason to go back to pure oil. And after so many treatments with oil and wax, I wouldn’t recommend switching back to a varnish-based finish. Reply Ben April 14, 2015 12:29 amcould this same process be used for butcher block countertops, since they aren’t end grain? Reply Marc Spagnuolo April 14, 2015 6:40 am I wouldn’t. The face grain builds a film much faster so you have to be a little more careful. Well, that’s only if you plan on cutting directly on the coutertop. If it isn’t a cut surface, then you can use whatever you want. Reply Ron April 25, 2015 7:17 am Well 36 years in this 46 year old house and only ran warm water after use ! What did they prep with then ? OK, groves and warn center, purchased a new slide under counter cutting board, $100.00 hard woods, help or skip asking for the three different views and just start cutting on it. Reply Dave Mullis July 17, 2015 4:52 pm Question: I oiled my butcher block island almost a year ago. If I lay anything on it, especially paper, oil bleeds through. How long should I expect this to occur? Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 18, 2015 9:27 am Probably as long as you continue to apply a non-drying oil to it. Mineral oil (I’m assuming that’s what you used) never dries. We just hope that most of it will absorb into the wood and then dissipate over time. Sometimes, applying a mineral oil/wax mixture can help block some of that oil from leaching out. Reply Tony Fiore September 2, 2015 5:57 am Prior to finding your video on end grain cutting boards I made a long grain out of maple, cherry, and walnut from plans in Wood magazine and finished it with mineral oil as suggested. After a couple of uses the board is worn and already looks like it needs to be reoiled. My question is this….can I sand the board and then apply General Finish Salad bowl fininsh to it now…or is it to late and won’t work because it is long grain and already has the mineral oil application? Thanks in advance….. Reply Fred Schwacke September 2, 2015 6:02 pm This is a very interesting thread and I truly enjoyed reading through it. My background is in science and I have done a lot of work in Biochemistry. My thoughts are to use a hard tight grained wood, sand it to a fine finish, and then finish it with a coat coconut oil. Apply thin coats until it doesn’t absorb any more. Its a very good antimicrobial, a great nutrient, has good water resistance, and is very easy to maintain. Replybrenda reavis October 23, 2015 5:33 pm I am asking a question about sealing a walnut stain (design). I have applied a sample board with the dark stain but the design leaked thru to a part of the part of the board I wanted to stayed natural or unstained. On other boards, How do I stop the vertical stain from bleeding into the unfinished ,natural part of the wood? Will a thin line of wax seal the stain and prevent it from bleeding? breavis Reply Andrea Frick January 6, 2016 2:17 pm We are getting a butcher block countertop for our basement but don’t have enough money to order the fancy dark ones, especially since it’s a basement. We’re thinking of buying the birch one instead, for only $50 from Menards, and staining it to match the floor we’ll put in. Can we stain it before applying the salad bowl finish or will the stain be hazardous even with the salad bowl finish over it? Keep in mind this isn’t for a ktichen, just a small 4ft wet bar that will be used to maybe cut limes but not for food prep often. If we cut food, most likely we’ll use a regular plastic cutting board anyway because I can throw it in the dishwasher to sanitize it. Reply Marc Spagnuolo January 7, 2016 11:33 am Once the material is cured, it should be safe enough for a bard top. So if you want to stain, go ahead and stain. But definitely protect that stain with a nice layer of finish. Keep in mind that birch tends to blotch heavily. So maybe do some tests on the underside first and see how the stain looks. You will want to use a good stain/conditioner to help ensure even stain absorption, unless you don’t mind a more “rustic” look. Reply John January 11, 2016 8:58 am Is there any kind of epoxy or something that will be hard and leaves a beautiful finish Reply Sara January 16, 2016 1:44 pm Very informative and easy-to-follow video! My first end grain cutting board (cherry and hard maple) turned out lovely, although I am having trouble with the finishing process. I diluted the varnish (General Finishes salad bowl) 50/50 with mineral spirits and followed the finishing instructions in the video. However, I never experienced the varnish soaking through to the other side, and the first time it was washed it came out looking very nearly like bare wood. Thinking maybe the varnish didn’t soak through enough. Do you have any experience with this, and do you think I should dilute the varnish even more and give it another try? Reply Matt January 18, 2016 10:09 am Can I treat a mineral oil covered cutting board with a mineral oil / beeswax mixture to improve water resistance and eliminate bleed of the mineral oil? how do I prepare the surface? wash with mineral spirits or with acetone? Reply Marc Spagnuolo January 18, 2016 11:47 am I would just scrape any residue off the surface and apply the oil/wax mixture. No need for chemicals. Reply Zack February 1, 2016 4:23 pm What are thoughts on using White Oak. I have an opportunity to buy a bunch of 1/4 sawn 8/4 white oak for next to nothing. From what I can tell, white is a much better option than red; but I’ve found little opinion on the use of white oak. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Reply Rachel February 26, 2016 10:17 am I have an Ikea wood countertop. I have sanded it 220 grit and oiled it with butcher block oil. I came back the next day and it is rough again. Do I sand again or just keep oiling? Reply Peter Tatiner June 28, 2016 9:00 am My Boos cutting board keeps staining despite the use of its two recommended solutions. How do I protect the wood from say, blueberry stains, or stains from old non-stainless cutlery (Sabatier, don’t you know)? Reply Nelson July 15, 2016 2:47 pm“What are you, stupid?!? !” uh, no, just never had to care for butcher block before. People looking for information are not stupid…but people like you certainly are. Reply Jim February 23, 2017 9:03 pm You should probably re-read the statement you’re referring to and the few sentences above it. Especially if you’re calling people stupid. Reply Patrick September 7, 2016 8:33 am Hi Marc. I dont know if i am doing this right but after I sand and clean my cutting board, I treat it with a mix of mineral oil and wax but when I wipe the excess off there seems to be dust (walnut) coming off also. I dont know if I missed a step of if it will stop eventually. Thanks in advance. Reply Paul V. Gargulak April 6, 2017 1:14 pmdiluting salad bowl finish which has mineral spirits in with more spirits to absorb deeper into grain. mineral spirits is not food friendly . so how long to cure board before use? Reply Marc Spagnuolo April 6, 2017 2:39 pm I would let it cure until the smell is gone. Adding more mineral spirits doesn’t increase the cure time. Reply Paul V. Gargulak April 6, 2017 5:25 pmdone a little more research. after cure time mineral spirits is food safe so are a number of other solvents Reply Russ April 26, 2017 7:13 pm Marc – Recently I made a batch of cutting boards using cherry, white maple, and walnut; all are edge grain. I used mineral oil for the finish and expected a slight color change (that the wood would darken slightly), but was completely surprised the maple turned a light golden brown…no longer white. I’ve watched many youtube videos where mineral oil was applied to white maple and the color appears to remain mostly white. What am I doing wrong or is there something I’m not doing? I used the white maple to create a contrast, but instead I have cutting boards that are different shades of brown. Reply Arturo May 18, 2017 7:15 pm So after the final coat of salad bowl finish, there is no further upkeep required on the board? Besides general cleaning after use? Am I understanding that correctly. Reply Marc Spagnuolo May 18, 2017 8:42 pm No. Over time, all cutting boards need maintenance. You can either take it back in the shop, sand, and then reapply a new coat. Or you can simply start maintaining it indefinitely using a little traditional mineral oil/wax mixture. Reply Amy July 6, 2017 11:10 am Question – I have a maple cutting board that is large and quite lovely but I’ve always wished it was darker. Is there a way to stain it darker and still have it safe for food prep? Thanks!Reply Marc Spagnuolo July 6, 2017 11:14 am Not that I’d recommend. I wouldn’t want any coloring agents getting into the wood. Reply Ramon Lyn August 14, 2017 5:27 am Marc,A few months back I watched your video on varnishes on cutting boards and like you, I prefer your method with the Salad Bowl Finish and I used General Finishes for a couple endgrain boards I made. Now I’m making some Face-grain boards for cutting and serving and would love to do this again with the SBF instead of oiling. Do you see any pitfalls with me doing this with SBF versus oiling because I want something with less maintenance for my customers? I know it works for endgrain well but I’m just not sure with face-grain boards how it would absorb well into the hardwood. Any help would be appreciated thanks. Reply Marc Spagnuolo August 14, 2017 6:18 pm I honestly never tried it on long grain boards. But even long grain can take up some finish as a sealer. The trick is that you don’t want to build a film. So perhaps dilute out and apply to liberal coats. Sand back and see how it holds up. Will still likely benefit from an oil/wax maintenance plan long term. Though it shouldn’t require as much upkeep as a traditional oil board. Reply Slater Davis November 9, 2017 3:15 pm Loved your video. Completed my first successful end grain cutting board, and with some scrap made a side grain board. I used Mineral Oil on both. BUT…I have a problem. My end grain board is still ‘greasy’ or ‘oily’. It’s been 2 weeks since I oiled it. Any ideas? What did I do wrong? By the way, the side grain board looks great. Reply Marc Spagnuolo November 9, 2017 6:30 pm That’s just the nature of mineral oil. Just keeping wiping it down whenever you see oiliness and eventually it will start to look a little duller. Mineral never actually cures. So if you soak the board in oil, it absorbs what it can and then the rest just kind of leaches out over time. Reply Mike Jackson December 19, 2017 2:01 pm Marc, did you say that after the board is cured, you wipe it down with denatured alcohol? What does this do? Reply Leave a comment Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Name *Email *Website